;z~j 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 

in  2011  with  funding  from 

Research  Library,  The  Getty  Research  Institute 


http://www.archive.org/details/traveltipsontravOOrudd 


/ 


TRAVEL  TIPS 

on 

Travel  Trips 


Containing  Seventeen  Hundred 

Interesting,    Classified    Questions    on    Travel 

Answered  in 

The  Burton  Holmes  Travelogues 


Compiled  by 

LILIAN  S.  RUDDICK 


1920 

THE  BURTON  HOLMES  TRAVELOGUE  BUREAU 

CHICAGO 


Copyrigiit  :    1920:    Hanson-Roach-Fowleh  Company 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS 

The  World  Wonderful 

PAGE 

Morocco    i 

Algeria  and  Southern  Spain 8 

Egypt,  Southern  Italy  and  Switzerland 21 

Round  About  Paris,  Oberammekc.au  and  Corsica 32 

Norway,  Sweden,  Denmark  and  Finland 50 

Down  the  Amur;  Peking  and  the  Forbidden  City 66 

Japan  and  Korea 74 

Edge  of  China,  Manila  and  the  Hawaiian  Islands 84 

Yellowstone  National  Park,  Grand  Canon  of  Arizona 

and  Moki  Land 92 

South  America 101 

Geographical  Settings 

Algeria  and  Southern  Spain 9 

(  rREECE I  5 

Egypt,  Southern  Italy  and  Switzerland 23 

Norway,  Sweden,  Denmark  and  Finland 52 

St.  Petersburg,  Moscow  and  the  Trans-Siberian  Rail- 
way      59 

Down  the  Amur,  and  Peking 67 

Korea  and  Japan 75 

Edge  of  China,  Manila  and  the  Hawaiian  Islands 85 

South  America 102 

Manners  and  Customs 

Morocco    1 

Algeria  and  Southern  Spain 11 

Greece 16 

Egypt,  Southern  Italy  and  Switzerland 24 

Paris,  Op.era.m  mercau  and  Corsica ,  .  33 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS 

PAGE 

London,  Paris  and  Berlin 41 

Norway,  Sweden,  Denmark  and  Finland 52 

Russia   6  r 

1  )own  the  Amur  and  ix  Peking 67 

Korea  and  Japan yj 

Edge  of  China,  Manila  and  the  Hawaiian  Islands 86 

In  Moki  Land 98 

South    America 101 


Education  and  Religion 

Morocco    3 

Algeria  and  Southern  Spain 12 

Greece    18 

Egypt  and  Southern  Italy 26 

Paris,  Oberammergau  and  Corsica 36 

London,  Paris  and  Berlin 44 

Norway,  Sweden,  Denmark  and  Finland 55 

Russia  62 

Peking    71 

Korea  and  Japan 79 

Edge  of  China,  Manila  and  the  1  [awaiian  Islands 89 

Moki    Land 99 

South    America 108 

Architecture 

Morocco    5 

Algeria  and  Southern  Slain 10 

Gri  ece    17 

Eggpt,  Southern  Italy  and  Switzerland 25 

Paris,  Oberammergau  and  Corsica 34 

London,  Paris  and  Berlin 42 

Norway,  Sweden   and   Denmark 53 

Russia   60 

Peking    69 

Korea  and  Japan 76 

Mok]    Land 98 

South    America 107 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS 
Industrial  Life 

PAGE 

Morocco    5 

Algeria  and  Southern  Spain 12 

Egypt,  Southern  Italy  and  Switzerland 26 

Paris,  Oberammergau  and  Corsica 35 

Norway,  Sweden  and  Denmark 54 

Korea  and  Japan 78 

Edge  of  China,  Manila  and  the  Hawaiian  Islands 87 

Moki    Land 99 

South   America 104 

Art  and  Literature 

Greece 18 

Egypt,  Southern  Italy  and  Switzerland 28 

Paris,  Oberammergau  and  Corsica 38 

London,  Paris  and  Berlin 45 

Norway',  Sweden,  Denmark  and  Finland 56 

Russia    62 

Japan 81 

History  and  Government 

Morocco 5 

Algeria  and  Southern  Spain 13 

Greece 19 

Egypt,  Southern  Italy  and  Switzerland 30 

Paris,  Oberammergau  and  Corsica 39 

London,  Paris  and  Berlin 48 

Norway,  Sweden,  Denmark  and  Finland 56 

Russia 64 

Siberia  and  Peking J2 

Korea  and  Japan 82 

Edge  of  China  and  Hawaiian  Islands 90 

Moki    Land 100 

South   America 105 


TABLE  OF  i  l  INTENTS 


LIST  OF  MAPS 

PAGE 

Morocco    2 

Algeria  9 

1  hern   Spain 10 

(  rREECE     1 6 

Egypt    jj 

Si  it]  i  iiKRX   Italy 25 

s\\  [tzerland    2q 

Paris  and  Vicinity 34 

Germ  any    ^j 

Corsica    39 

London  (detail  map) 41 

Paris    (detail   map) 45 

Berlin   (detail  map) 47 

Norway,  Sweden,  Denmark  and  Finland 51 

Russian  Empire  and  the  Trans-Siberian  Railway 59 

The  Amur  River 68 

Peking  (detail  mat) 70 

Japan   and   Korea j$ 

Hawaiian  Islands 84 

of  China 86 

Phillipine    Islands 89 

Yellowstone  National   Park 93 

(  Jrand  Canon  of  Arizona 95 

Moki  Land  and  Vicinity 99 

Brazii d>3 

[guassu  Falls  [05 

Argentina  and  Chill 107 


FOREWORD 

IT  IS  possible  that  someone  else  may  have  said — before  I  set 
it  down  myself — "To  travel  is  to  possess  the  world."  The 
saying,  therefore,  may  or  may  not  be  original,  but  with  every 
passing  year  it  seems  more  and  more  true.  The  verb  "to 
possess  "  seems  at  first  glance  a  selfish  one.  To  heap  up  material 
possessions  for  ourselves  is  selfish ;  to  possess  merely  for  the  sake 
of  possessing  can  give  us  but  little  pleasure  and  no  genuine 
satisfaction. 

But  in  possessing  the  whole  world  through  travel  we  rob  the 
verb  of  every  selfish  sense.  We  take  nothing  from  any  man ; 
we  diminish  in  no  way  another's  possessions ;  we  become  rich 
without  wronging;  we  become  affluent  in  appreciation;  and  with 
our  increasing  appreciation  (the  word  "appreciation"  really 
means  perceiving  the  right  values  of  all  things)  we  magnify  and 
dignify  the  better  possessions  of  all  with  whom  we  come  in 
contact.  Thus,  to  travel  is  not  merely  a  pleasurable  pastime — it 
is  a  delightful  duty  that  each  of  us  owes  to  himself  or  to  herself ; 
but  the  measure  of  travel,  rightfully  ours,  must  of  course  be 
measured  by  our  means  and  our  responsibilities. 

BURTON  HOLMES. 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  ONE 

"  A    traveler   without   observation    is   a   bird 
without    wings." 

The  World  Wonderful 

PAGE 

Where  are  the  historic  "Pillars  of  Hercules,"  and  what 

are  their  modern  names? 13 

Around  what  inland  sea  are  grouped  the  nations  that  have 

ruled  the  world  in  ages  past? 14 

Where  do  we  find  a  famous  land  without  any  roads?.  .  .      14 

What  city  is  called  the  "White  City  of  the  Straits"? 30 

What  author  describes  Morocco  as  an  "empire  carpeted 

with    flowers"? 106 

Name  some  of  the  flowers  that  cover  the  valleys  and  hill- 
sides of  this  land  of  yesterday 107 

In  what  empire  does  it  seem  as  if  almighty  Allah  had 
spread  out  a  prayer-rug  of  unutterable  beauty,  woven 
by  the  divine  loom  ? 10S 

What  African  city,  once  one  of  the  proudest  and  most 
splendid  cities  of  the  Moslem  world,  has  fallen  into 
decay  so  gently  that  it  is  not  scarred,  but  beautified?  Ill 

How  is  "Fez  the  new"  so  beautifully  divided  from  "Fez 

the  old"?  124-125 

What  flowers  and  fruits  are  found  in  the  gardens  of  Fez?  146 

Where  is  the  "country  of  the  setting  sun"? 224 

Where  are  the  wild  daisies  so  tall  that  the  horses  of  the 
tourists  seem  to  be  lying  down  instead  of  toiling 
through  a  sea  of  flowers  ? 291 

What  fortress  of  Morocco  remains  as  an  eloquent  tribute 

to  the  vanished  glory  of  Portugal  ? 292 

Manners  and  Customs 

What  is  the  beverage  of  all  the  true  worshipers  of  Allah?  29 

Where  is  insanity  a  most  valuable  asset,  and  why? 35 

What  are  the  characteristics  of  the  dress  of  the  native 

Moroccan  ?    36 

1 


2        AROUND  THE  WORLD  WITH   BURTON   HOLMES 

PAGE 

In  what  country  is  it  a  popular  form  of  curse  to  express 
the  -wish  that  the  wife  of  your  great-grandfather  may 
enjoy  perpetual  torridity  in  the  nether  world? 43 

Why   are   the   prisons   of   Morocco   not   provided   with   a 

means  of  egress? 52 

What  people  believe  that  "whatever  is,  is  right"? 85 

What  personage,  the  most  revered  of  all  Mohammedans, 
is,  in  their  eyes,  a  greater  and  holier  man  than  the 
Sultan  of  Turkey  or  the  Sultan  of  Morocco? 88 


MOROCCO 


ABUAM* 


•TARUDANT 


MOROCCO 


What  city  i-;  so  sacred,  and  its  inhabitants  so  fanatical, 
that  the  tourist  cannot  enter  its  gates  without  a  mili- 
tary escorl  ?  89 

What  does  the  word  "metropolis"  mean  when  applied  to 
a  modern  city? 115 

How  is  the  modern  definition  of  the  word  "metropolis" 
changed  when  applied  to  the  "metropolis"  of  the 
Moors?    117 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  ONE  3 

PAGE 

What  is  the  attitude  of  the  natives  of  Fez  toward  Christian 

visitors?   126-130-133 

What  is  the  prevailing  style  of  dress  worn  by  the  women 

of   Fez  ? 134-135 

In  what  African  city  are  the  streets  so  narrow  that  the 

pack-mules  sometimes  stick  fast  between  the  houses?  144 
Why  is  it  advisable  that  the  foreigner  sojourning  in  Fez 

secure  a  guard  ? 153 

Stroll  with  Mr.  Holmes  through  the  vault-like  streets  of 

Fez   1 54-1 56 

Where  is  printed  the  daily  paper  that  may  be  purchased 

in  the  metropolis  of  Morocco? 166 

When  did  Mr.  Holmes  record  a  scene  with  his  camera  that 

he  did  not  dare  look  upon? 182 

Were  there  slaves  in  Morocco  at  the  time  of  Mr.  Holmes' 

visit?    187 

In  what  country  does  the  menu  for  a  formal  dinner  consist 

entirely  of  meats? 190 

Where  is  there  a  cemetery  for  the  dead  which  is  also  a 

home  for  the  living? 195 

How  has  one  writer  very  aptly  described  the  "Mellah"?  199 
Describe  the  solemn  ceremony  of  tea-drinking  as  wit- 
nessed in  Morroco 206-207 

Which  part  of  the  dwelling-house  of  the  Moors  is  sacred 

to  the  women  ? 220 

In  what  country  do  the  "roads  refuse  to  cross  bridges," 

but  keep  to  the  old  fords? 233 

In  what  old  city  still  stand  three  miles  of  stables,  large 

enough  for  twelve  thousand  horses? 244 

What  ruler  fed  his  pet  lions  with  slaves  and  treated  his 

forty  cats  better  than  he  treated  his  children? 247 

When  was  an  architect  deprived  of  his  eyesight  for  desir- 
ing to  surpass  a  previous  achievement? 250 

Where  does  a  robber  become  an  ideal  host,  answering  for 

your  safety  with  his  life? 259 

Education  and  Religion 

To  what  religion  is  due  the  present  preservation  of  the 

Morocco  of  yesterday? 14 


4        AROUND  THE  WORLD  WITH  BURTON  HOLMES 

PAGE 

In  what  way  does  the  Moroccan  consider  the  pigtail  as 

an  agent  of  salvation  ? 27 

Quote  several  of  the  old  Aral)  maxims  which,  as  gems  of 

wisdom,  arc  applicable  to  all  races? 28 

The   people   of  what   religion   are   forbidden    the   use   of 

intoxicating  liquors?    29 

Where  is  it  considered  a  pious  deed  to  curse  and  insult  a 

Christian  ? 40 

How  did  a  clever  interpreter  save  a  life  by  his  translation 

of  a  romance  from  the  Arabian  Nights? 45 

Describe  the  celebration  of  the  great  feast  of  Aid-el-Kebir, 

as  witnessed  by  Mr.  Holmes 46 

For  what  festival  are  120,000  sheep  sacrificed  in  Mecca  in 

one  day  ? 51 

Where  is  the  sacred  city  of  Wazzan  and  why  is  it  sacred?  87-89 

Who  is  the  nearest  direct  descendant  of  Mohammed  and 
how  is  he  regarded  by  the  adherents  of  Mohammed- 
anism ? 88-89 

What  great  city,  called  the  heart  of  a  nation,  was  mum- 
mified eight  hundred  years  ago  by  the  religion  of 
Mohammed  ?    117 

What  great  book  says  that  "Every  painter  is  in  hell-fire, 
and  Allah  will  appoint  a  person  at  the  day  of  resur- 
rection for  every  picture  he  shall  have  drawn,  to 
punish  him"? 153 

May  a   stranger  in   Fez   visit   the  many    Mohammedan 

mosques  ?    162 

What  is  the  greatest  educational  institution  of  Morocco?  168 

What  famous  mathematical  book.--  are  said  to  be  moldering 

in  the  inaccessible  library  of  the  "Karueein"? 168 

In  what  way  did  the  Moroccans  of  the  twelfth  century 
provide  for  the  support  and  perpetuation  of  the 
"Karueein"  ? 169 

\\  h.it  i-  the  basis  of  the  teachings  of  the  University  of 
Fez  ? 169 

Who  are  the  "tabeebas"? 169 

How  docs  the  map  of  the  world  used  by  the  University 
of  Fez  illustrate  the  geographic  point  of  view  of  the 
Mohammedan    educator?    170 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  ONE  5 

PAGE 

Note  illustration  169 

Death  by  the  imperial  hand  of  what  ruler  insured  imme- 
diate passport  to  a  "beatitudinous  eternity"? 247 

From  what  Arabic  word  has  the  nautical  term  of  "admiral" 

been  derived  ? 300 

Architecture  and  Industry 

What  is  a  Soko? 37 

Why  is  the  Soko  considered  the  true  frontier  between  the 

Christian  and  the  Moslem  worlds? 37 

When  was  Morocco  considered  the  granary  of  Europe?     87 

Why  do  the  Moorish  authorities  prohibit  the  exportation 

of  grain  ? 87 

Where  did  a  Sultan  design  a  palace  so  large  that  the  walls 
of  the  only  room  built  now  form  an  extensive  public 
square  ?    132 

In  what  city  is  it  sacrilegious  to  make  any  needed  repairs 

on  public  buildings? 156 

With  what  parts  of  the  world  does  Fez  have  commercial 

relations?    218 

What  Moorish  emperor  made  his  people  suffer  that  he 

might  satisfy  his  mania  for  colossal  masonry? 240 

How  does  the  Moorish  wall  surrounding  Mequinez  com- 
pare with  the  Roman  aqueducts  and  the  great  wall  of 
China? 240 

Where,  and  for  what  purpose,  did  a  Sultan  of  Morocco 
build  an  elevated  boulevard  two  hundred  miles  in 
length  ?    241 

Why  must  each  succeeding  ruler  of  Morocco  build  him- 
self a  new  palace  ? 243 

Describe    a    "townless"    market-place    of    the    Moroccan 

plains  255 

Describe  the  unique  Moorish  "skyscraper"  of  Rabat  where 

Mr.  Holmes  was  entertained 307 

For  what  industry  is  the  port  of  Rabat  noted? 308 

History  and  Government 

What  rock,  now  the  site  of  a  great  fortress,  at  one  time 

marked  the  western  limit  of  the  ancient  world? 14 


6        AROUND  THE  WORLD  WITH  BURTON  HOLMES 

PAGE 

How  did  England  first  acquire  a  foothold  for  her  Indian 

Empire  ? 23 

What  city  was  disowned  by  its  ruler  because  of  improve- 
ments made  by  Christians? 24 

In  what  country  do  foreign  nations  maintain  and  manage 

their  own  postoffice  systems? 34 

Where   is   the   true   frontier  between    the   Christian   and 

.Moslem  worlds?   37 

What  is  the  one  privilege  granted  by  the  government  to 

the  prisoners  of  Morocco? 52 

In  what  part  of  Africa  is  there  carefully  preserved  a  docu- 
ment which  was  signed  by  George  Washington?.  ...     56 

Give   the  translation   of  the   Exequatur  granted   by  the 

Sultan  to  the  first  United  States  consul  in  Morocco     56 

Where  is  a  "living  passport"  needed  by  every  traveler?.  .     62 

In  what  army  do  the  soldiers  of  today  carry  a  lump  of  lead 
and  a  bullet  mold  for  the  purpose  of  providing  them- 
selves with  the  necessary  projectiles  in  case  of  attack?    62 

How  does  the  Moorish  Sultan  levy  and  collect  taxes?.  ...     78 

At  what  city  in  Africa  did  Portugal  receive  the  death  blow 

of  her  greatness  ? SO 

By  what  ruse  did  the  late  Shareef  of  Wazzan  succeed  to 

that  dignity  ?  95 

What  famous  tribe  of  Arabs  honored  Mr.  Holmes  by  per- 
forming "the  powder  play,"  a  sort  of  glorified  cavalry 
charge  ?    99 

How  long  does  it  take  to  travel  by  the  fastest  caravan 
from  the  southern  to  the  northern  extremities  of 
Morocco  ?    105 

What  do  Moroccans  think  of  the  extent  of  their  country? 
Is  their  opinion  justifiable? 105 

How  long  does  it  take  to  make  the  trip  from  Tangier  to 
Fez? 121 

Mow  dors  the  Sultan  of  Morocco  obtain  money  for  the 
government's  needs?  161 

From  what  event  do  the  Moors  date  their  calendar? 162 

Why   do   wealthy  Jews   in    Morocco   seek   the   position   of 

consular  agent  for  foreign  nations? Io0-162 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  ONE  7 

PAGE 

To  what    ruler,   contemporaneous    with    Louis   XIV    of 

France,  was  the  drowning  of  a  wife  a  pastime? 247 

In  the  heart  of  what  empire  is  located  a  hostile  tribe  so 
powerful  that  the  Sultan  with  an  escort  of  30,000  men 
is  compelled  to  take  an  indirect  route  through  his  own 
empire  ?   273 

Where    are    the    three    towers    of    "Yakub    el    Mansur" 

located  ? 302 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  TWO 

"  The  use  of  travel  is  t,>  regulate  imagination 
by  reality." 

The  World  Wonderful 

PAGE 

Describe  the  snowy-capped  mountain  chain  of  the  Djurd- 
jura  Atlas,  where  with  Burton  Holmes  we  spend  an 
Easter  Sunday  in  worshipful  admiration  of  one  of 
nature's  most  inspiring  "scenic  temples" 72 

Study  carefully  the  illustration  of  the  Natural  Bridge  at 

Constantine    103 

What  river,  at  one  time  red   with  human  blood,  flows 

swiftly  beneath  this  bridge? 101 

How  can  the  tourist  now  descend  to  the  level  of  the  ravine 

500  feet  below  the  streets  of  Constantine? 97 

Compare  the  rugged  promontory  of  Cape  Carbon  on  the 

Barbary  Coast  with  Britain's  famous  rock,  Gibraltar..   116 

Describe  the  journey  from  the  Mediterranean  shore  to  the 
Sahara,  as  with  Burton  Holmes  we  view  the  Gorges 
of  Chabet,  the  wonderful  rock-bound  passes  through 
the  Atlas  mountains,  and  the  fertile  regions  that  con- 
nect the  Atlas  Chain  with  the  Aures 118 

What  phenomenon  in  Algeria  brings  to  mind  the  steam- 
ing geysers  of  the  Yellowstone  Park? 124 

Where  is  the  sun  the  absolute  "sovereign  of  the  soli- 
tudes," seeming  to  create  illusions  just  to  torment  the 
traveler?   176 

What  celebrated  rock,  belonging  to  England  and  faith- 
fully guarding  her  possessions,  stands  like  a  grim 
sentinel  at  the  entrance  to  sunny  Spain? 233 

Why  did  this  rock  once  bear  the  name  of  Calpe,  and  from 

win  mi  d(  >es  it  take  its  present  appellation  ? 229 

Beginning  with  the  time  when  Gibraltar  was  regarded  as 
"one  of  the  pillars  of  Hercules"  follow  its  history 
d<  iwn  to  the  present 229 

8 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  TWO 


PAGE 


Where  do  we  find  the  most  picturesquely  situated  city  in 

southern  Spain  ?   246 

Compare  this  city  with  the  "cliff-perched"  Constantine  of 

Algeria    247 

Geographical  Settings 

What  is  the  most  direct  route  from  America  to  the  Bar- 

bary  Coast  ? 10 

Give  the  boundaries  of  French  Algeria,  or,  as  it  is  often 

called,  the  "New  African  France" 65 

Where  are  the  Kabyle  mountains,  and  for  what  are  they 

noted  ?   66 


jj   $  A    N       s    & 


SCALE  OF  MILES 


50  100 


What  city  is  separated  from  a  neighboring  plateau  by  a 
moat  500  feet  in  depth,  overhung  by  titanic  walls  of 
rocks,  the  battlements  of  which  are  human  dwellings  ?     90 
Where    is    the   Africa    of    the    roving    Bedouin    and    the 

nomadic  Arab  ? 115 

Where  are  the  "Accursed  Springs,"  and  from  what  did 

they  take  their  name? 125 

What  is  the  population  of  the  Sahara  desert? 221 

What  is  the  area  of  the  Sahara? 222 

Through  the  doorways  of  what  nations  must  the  traveler 

enter   Spain  ? 228 


10      AROUND  THE  WORLD  WITH   BURTON   HOLMES 


PAGE 

Entering  Spain  through  England's  fortress,  where  do  we 

first  set  foot  on  Spanish  soil  ? 236 

Architecture 

What  city  of  northern  Africa,  as  it  is  approached  from  the 
harbor,  lias  the  appearance  of  being  cut  from  a  block 
of  spotless  marble? 11 

What  does  Burton  Holmes  say  as  to  the  architecture  of 
this  Oriental-Occidental  city? 12-15 

What  country  is  indirectly  responsible  for  the  wealth  of 

splendid  construction  to  be  found  in  Algiers? 12 

Note  the  perfection  in  architectural  design  as  portrayed  in 

the  illustration  of  the  "Approach  to  the  Boulevard". .      17 


What  is  the  general  architectural  design  of  the  beautiful 

villas    found    in    Algiers? 49 

In  what  little  hamlet  is  still  preserved  much  of  the  grace 

and  beauty  of  the  old  Arabic  architecture? 54 

How  does  the  native  of  Algeria  compare  the  structural 
work  done  by  the  Prophet's  Followers  with  that  of  the 
( Christian  slaves  and  Jews  ? 58 

Note   the   huge    square    structure   called   the   "Mansoura 

T<  >wer,"  as  sin  >wn  in  illustratii  »n 03 

In  the  interior  of  what  country  do  we  find  the  "Pompeii 
of  Africa,"  the  ruins  of  which  are  buried  beneath  the 
sands  of  the  desert  instead  of  the  ashes  of  Vesuvius?  126 

(  )f  what  design  and  architecture  are  the  beautiful  cathe- 
dral and  ( riralda  tower  at  Seville? 270 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  TWO  11 

PAG!-: 

Where  do  we  find  a  similar  unfinished  structure? 270 

State  in  a  few  words  the  difference  between  the  Arabian 

and  Spanish  architecture  of  southern  Spain 335 

Manners  and  Customs 

How  did  the  pirates  of  the  Barbary  coast  treat  the  Chris- 
tian slaves  that  fell  into  their  hands? 33 

Who  are   the  Kabyles? 70 

What  does  Burton  Holmes  tell  us  of  the  marriage  customs 

of  the  "Kabyles"? 76 

How  is  the  mother  of  a  lusty  Kabyle  boy  favored? 79 

How   does    Mr.    Holmes    describe    the   dancing   girls    of 

Biskra ?    155 

Why  do  the  inhabitants  of  the  Algerian  Sahara  migrate  to 
the  north  each  June,  like  the  displacements  of  entire 
populations  in  ancient  history? 174 

What  is  the  means  of  conveyance  used  by  the  Arabs  in 
bringing  into  the  Sahara  desert  the  materials  used  for 
the  construction  of  European  buildings? 182 

Describe  the  "optical  telegraph"  by  which  Mr.  Holmes 
sent  a  message  from  the  desert  city  of  Touggourt  to 
the  United  States 197 

Where  are  grasshoppers  served  hot  to  traveling  epicures?  200 

Where  is  the  town-barber  also  a  physician? 206 

What   is  the   "barber-doctor's"  universal   remedy  for  all 

ills?    207 

How  are  travelers  often  made  passive  participants  in  the 

smuggling  of  tobacco  from  a  British  port  into  Spain  ?  240 

What  is  the  prevailing  costume  of  the  people  of  southern 

Spain  ?   254 

Recall  the  Spanish  proverb  descriptive  of  the  sturdiness 

of  the  picturesque  Spanish  peasant  of  Ronda 255 

How  does  one  writer  and  lover  of  the  Spanish  people 
refer  to  the  lack  of  educational  advantages  of  south- 
ern Spain  ? 266 

What  custom  concerning  the  dress  of  the  unmarried 
daughters  of  Seville  might  be  advantageously  adopted 
by  American  mothers? 277-279 


12      AROUND  THE  WORLD  WITH  BURTON  HOLMES 

PAGE 

Read   Burton   Holmes'  very  complete  description  of  the 

typical  hull  fights,  as  seen  at  Seville 298-318 

In  what  country  does  the  host  invariably  offer  his  guest 

the  ownership  of  all  his  goods? 325 

Industrial  Life 

What  does  Burton  Holmes  say  of  the  industrial  life  of 
the  French  colonists  in  the  fertile  valleys  of  the  Bar- 
bary  coast? 61-62 

What  is  the  main  industry  of  the  settlers  along  the  slopes 

of  the  Kabyle  mountains? 70 

Where  do  we  find  oats  sold  by  the  handful,  wheat  dealt 
out  in  pinches,  and  men  gaining  a  living  by  a  daily 
commerce  unworthy  elsewhere  the  "time  and  labor 
of  a  fly"? 152 

Give  some  idea  of  the  endurance  of  the  camel  and  what 

can  be  said  of  his  commercial  value,  even  after  death..   175 

What  product  is  termed  "the  wealth  of  the  Sahara"?. . .  .    183 

What  are  the  average  length  of  life  and  the  average  pro- 
ductiveness of  the  date-palm  of  the  Algerian  Sahara?  189 

What  is  the  main  industry  of  southern  Spain? 271-272 

Religion  and  Education 

What  people  were  termed  the  "Scourge  of  Christen- 
dom"?        6 

Where  is  the  church  of  "Our  Lady  of  Africa"? 11 

Tell  how  the  Christian  priests  sacrificed  their  own  free- 
dom to  minister  to  the  slaves  captured  by  the  pirates 

along  the  coast  of  northern  Africa 33 

Were  the  cruelties  and  inhumanities  practised  by  the  Bar- 
bary  corsairs  upon  their  prisoners  greater  than  those 
inflicted  in  contemporary  times  by  Christian  govern- 
ments?         37 

What    have    the    French    schools    meant    to    the    Kabyle 

people?   82-83 

What  is  the  legend  of  the  "Accursed  Springs"  of  Algeria?  125 
What  is  the  Mohammedan  law  concerning  photography?  208 
What  was  formerly  the  religion  of  southern  Spain? 271 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  TWO  13 

PAGE 

What  religion,  through  its  superstitious  belief,  prevents 
fond  parents  from  brushing  away  from  the  inflamed 
eyelids  of  their  children  the  swarms  of  flies  that 
cluster   there  ? 206 


History  and  Government 

What  state,  today  the  chief  colonial  possession  of  the 
French  Republic,  was  formerly  the  greatest  of  the 
pirate  states  of  Barbary  ? 5 

What  three  countries  participated  in  annihilating  pirate 

rule  along  the  Barbary  coast? 9-10 

In  what  way  does  the  colonial  city  of  Algiers  remind  us 

of    Paris? 23 

How  does  the  colonial  city  differ  from  the  "remains"  of 

the  real  Algiers  ? 24 

From  what  Arabic  word  is  the  name  Algiers  derived,  and 

what  was  its  original  interpretation  ? 24 

What  act  of  a  Turkish  potentate  precipitated  a  war  that 
assured  his  own  destruction  and  the  welfare  of  his 
people  ? 26 

Under  the  government  of  what  country  were  his  people 

thus    placed  ? 29 

Review  briefly  with  Mr.  Holmes  the  interesting  story  of 
the  Barbary  corsairs  from  the  sixteenth  to  the  nine- 
teenth century 29-30 

What   celebrated   author  was   sold   as  a   slave   from   an 

Algerian   marketplace? 30 

When  did  the  Algerian  pirates  become  so  bold  that  they 
literally  sacked  the  town  of  Baltimore,  Ireland,  and 
carried  off  more  than  200  Irishmen  ? 35 

What  people   for  more   than  200  years  exacted  tribute 

money  from  the  greatest  nations  of  the  world? 37 

What  was  the  annual  cost  to  England  for  the  treaty  with 
Algeria  which  read  "Liberty  is  granted  to  the  Alger- 
ines  to  search  British  vessels  and  to  take  out  all 
persons  and  goods  not  belonging  to  the  British 
nation"?    38 


14     AROUND  THE  WORLD  WITH  BURTON  HOLMES 

PAGE 

How  much  money  was  poured  into  the  coffers  of  the  dey 
of  Algeria  by  the  United  States  before  defying  his 
power  in  1815? 41 

What  gallant  commodore  enforced  the  cry  of  the  indig- 
nant Americans — "Millions  for  defense  but  not  one 
penny  for  tribute,"  and  compelled  the  dey  of  Algeria 
to  sue  for  peace  ? 42 

What   nation   struck  the   final   death  blow  to  Christian 

slavery  in  Algeria  ? 45 

As  an  investment  is  Algeria  profitable  to  the  French  gov- 
ernment ?    65 

What  has  become  of  the  people  who  inhabited  the  land  of 
Barbary  before  the  Romans,  Vandals  and  Arabs 
swept  o'er  it? 66 

How  have  the  French  engineers  made  possible  the  view- 
ing of  the  "glorious  pages  of  Nature's  wonderbook" 
through  the  Gorges  of  Chabet,  and  en  route  to  the 
Algerian  Sahara  ? 123 

What  noted  rock  is  the  grandest  link  in  the  chain  of  for- 
tresses which  binds  to  England  her  Oriental  con- 
quests ? 228 

I  [<  »w  is  this  rock  fortified? 233 

Where  is  there  a  colony  of  savage  apes  of  whose  numbers 

the  British   authorities  keep  a  careful  record? 234 

What   great  stronghold   is   defended   by   cannon   wholly 

i  iperated  by  electricity? 235 

What  is  the  "Guardia  Civil"  of  Spain,  and  what  does  Mr. 

I  [olmes  say  of  the  personnel  of  its  men? 245 

Where  do  we  find  entombed  the  bodies  ^i  Ferdinand  and 
Isabella,  the  king  and  queen  who  were  termed  by 
Shakespeare  "the  wisest  king  that  ever  ruled  in 
Spain"  and  the  "queen  of  earthly  queens"? 321 

For  how  many  centuries  was  southern  Spain  ruled  by  the 

Moors  ? 336 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  THREE 

"Land  of  lost  gods  and   godlike  men." 

Geographic  Settings 

PAGE 

What  is  the  shortest  route  to  Greece  from  New  York?  7 
How   does   the   commerce   of  Athens   of   today   compare 

with  that  of  ancient  Athens? 118 

Where  is  the  island  of  Aegina,  the  home  of  the  wealth 

and  the  enterprise  of  the  old  Greek  world? 121 

Where  and  what  is  the  Peloponnesus? 124 

What  waters  arc  joined  by  the  Corinthian  Canal? 124 

Have  any  steps  been  taken  to  uncover  the  ancient  city 

of    Corinth? 128 

What  buried  city  of  Greece   was   once  an   "Empress  of 

Commerce"  ? 133 

What  can  be  said  of  the  fertility  and  productiveness  of 

the  Vale   of  Sparta? 165-166 

How    does    Mr.    Holmes    liken    Greece    to    the    Moorish 

Empire  ? 186 

Describe  the  interesting  trip  from  the  Corinthian  Gulf  to 

the  monastery  of  'Megaspeleon 200-210 

What  is  the  chief  port  of  Thessaly  and  how  is  it  reached 

from    Athens? 230 

Glide  for  a  few  hours  over  the  Ba}^  of  Salamis  with  Mr. 

Holmes  and  note  its  many  points  of  interest.  .  .  .230,  233 
What  vale  in  Thessaly  is  called  the  granary  of  Greece?.  .  259 
What  far-famed  wonders  attract  the  tourist  to  Thessaly?  277 
Study  carefully  the  illustrations  which  so  splendidly  visu- 
alize the  Meteora..261,  287,  291,  297,  318,  324,  325,  331 
Are   the    Meteora    monasteries    easily   accessible,    one   to 

another ?    290 

How  do  geologists  explain  the  nature-sculptured  cliffs  of 

Thessaly  ?    306 

Note  the  "broken-mountain"  representative  of  the  kneel- 
ing camel 316 

15 


16      AROUND  THE  WORLD  WITH  BURTON  HOLMES 
Manners  and  Customs 


PAGE 


Are  the  native  Athenians  a  home-loving  people? 33 

Of  what  ancient  observance  wore  the  first  modern  Olym- 
pian games  a  revival  ? 45 


GREECE 


SCALE  OF  MILES 


MT.  OLYMPU5  ft 


METEORA        .JYRNAVOS   1  ^, 

%  •  KALABAKA  _„     V 

JANINA  p  'LARIS! 

"I7JIKALA 

VOLOj^ 

w 


How  was  the  season  for  the  Olympian  games  determined?  47 

i  ite  an  instance  i  if  the  demi  »cracy  i  >f  the  ( rreeks 140 

Give  the   formula  of  an  old  prescription   found  at   Epi- 

daurus 145 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  THREE  17 

PAGE 

When  a  Spartan  boy  won  honors  at  the  Olympian  games, 

how  was  he  rewarded  by  his  own  people  ? 169 

How  did  the  Spartans  regard  the  men  who  married  un- 
wisely or  not  at  all  ? 170 

How  does  Mr.  Holmes  describe  a  Grecian  dance? 175 

The  revival  of  what  ancient  games  celebrated  the  inde- 
pendence of  Greece  ? 228 

Describe  the  foot-gear  of  the  native  of  Thessaly 241 

What  is  the  uniform  of  the  Greek  army? 242 

How  does  the  tourist  reach  the  monastery  of  the  Holy 

Trinity  from  the  base  of  its  pyramid  of  rock? 294 

What  becomes  of  the  wife  of  the  Greek  priest  who  is 

raised  to  the  rank  of  bishop  ? 300 

Describe  a  Meteora  elevator 316 

Architecture 

Describe  the  old  Athenian  Stadium  of  three  hundred  years 

before  Christ 58 

Of  what  was  the  Stadium  of  five  hundred  years  later  com- 
posed?   Has  it  been  completely  restored? 58-59 

How  did  a  polyglot  guide  explain  the  difference  between 

the  Ionic  and  Doric  columns  on  the  Acropolis? 94 

What  ruin  is  "more  perfect,  despite  its  mutilations,  than 

the  proudest  structures  of  the  modern  world"? 99 

Study   carefully   the    different   views   of   what   might   be 

termed  the  wreck  of  ages,  "The  Parthenon" 

96,  97,  99,  100,  107 
How  long  have  the  time-stained  pillars  of  the  Parthenon 

withstood  the  ravages  of  time? Ill 

What  fortress  of  Greece  built  by  the  Venetians  and  the 

Turks  can  be  reached  only  by  a  stairway  of  857  steps?  136 
Describe  the  architecture  of  the  Cyclops  as  unearthed  in 

Tiryns,    Greece 156 

Note  the  site,  masonry,  and  pictured  neglect  of  what  was 

once  one  of  the  great  cities  of  Greece 157-9,  160-3 

Read  Mr.  Holmes'  beautiful  description  of  the  towering 

monoliths  of  Greece 277-278 

How  were  the  monks  forced  higher  and  higher  until  their 

monasteries  crowned  the  Meteora  peaks? 302 


18     AROUND  THE  WORLD  WITH  1JURTON  HOLMES 

Religion 

PAGE 

Why  did  all  Greece  repair  to  Olympia  once  every  four 

years  ? 45 

Why    did    a    Roman    Emperor    abolish    the    Olympian 

games  ?    56 

When  the  people  of  Attica  resolved  to  rebuild  the  Athens 

destroyed  by  the  Asiatic  host,  what  did  they  do  with 

all  the  images  of  deities  they  had  worshiped? 100 

Visit  with  Mr.  Holmes  the  great  temple  of  "Aesculapius," 

the  g<  >d  of  healing 123 

How   did   the  gods   in   the   sacred   sanatorium  of  ancient 

Greece  prescribe  their  remedies? 143 

How  is  the  greatness  of  Greek  monasticism  preserved  in 

the  nn  mastery  of  Megaspelei  »n? 211 

Portray  the  life  of  the  monks  in  the  old  monasteries  of 

Greece   217 

Narrate  the  legend  of  the  founding  of  Megaspeleon 219 

How   has   decaying  orthodox   monasticism   crowned    the 

"broken-mountains"  of  Thessaly? 281-282 

Is  the  old  orthodox  Greek  ritual  adhered  to  by  the  monks 

of   Thessaly  ? 288 

Are  the  Greek  monks  pledged  to  celibacy? ' 300 

Does  the  Greek  church  recognize  the  Pope  at  Rome  as 

the  supreme  head  of  the  spiritual  world? 300 

Are  images  or  statues  worshiped  as  religious  symbols  by 

orthodox  Greeks  ? 301 

According  to  the  legend  of  the  monks,  how  and  why  were 

the  Meteora  monasteries  created? 309 

Art  and  Literature 

Who  was  the  sculptor  of  the  most  perfect  male  figure  in 

the  world  of  art? 45 

Study  the  perfection  of  detail  in  the  work  of  the  Athenian 

sculpt*  »rs,  as  illustrated 42,  46,  47 

How  have  the  deeds  of  the  victors  in  the  Olympian  games 

keen   immi  irtalized? 52 

What  masterpiece  of  the  great  epoch  of  Greek  sculpture  is 

the  most  precious  statue  in  the  world? 52 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  THREE  19 

PAGE 

The  fame  of  what  three  men  is  immortalized  in  the  most 

perfect  buildings  the  world  has  ever  known? 101 

After  a  sleep  of  2,300  years,  how  were  the  "goddesses"  of 
the  old  Athens  awakened,  and  what  did  this  discovery- 
mean  to  the  world  of  art? 105 

Note  illustrations  of  the  archaic  goddesses 109 

What  is  the  "capital"  required  for  the  opening  of  the  mine 

of  Grecian  treasure? 115 

How  has  Aeschylus,  the  tragic  poet,  immortalized  the  vic- 
tory of  the  Greeks  over  the  Persians? 123 

What   wonderful   treasures  were   found   in   the   Mycenae 

tombs  ? 148 

Where  and  how  did  the  poetical  conception  of  Arcadia 

originate  ? 180 

How  will  the  long  climb  to  the  famous  temple  of  Bassae 

reward  the  pilgrims  to  this  old  shrine  of  art? 183 

What  is  the  meaning  of  the  word  "Megaspeleon"? 212 

How  has  Mr.  Holmes  so  happily  eulogized  the  true  Greek 

spirit   that   cannot   die? 334,  336 

History 

Was  Olympia  originally  a  city  of  importance? 45 

To  what  Greek  hero,  famous  for  his  strength,  is  credited 

the  origin  of  the  Olympian  games? 46 

When   the  astronomers  had   determined  the  date  of  the 

Greek  festival,  what  great  proclamation  was  issued?     48 

On  what  occasion  did  a  Grecian  premier  exclaim  to  the 
United  States  minister,  "O,  why  did  Columbus  dis- 
cover your  unconquerable  country? 71 

How  was  the  ancient  Acropolis  destroyed?     Relate  the 

story  of  the  re-building  by  the  people  of  Attica....     99 

Looking  back  into  the  history  of  Greece,  what  can  be  said 
of  her  struggle  against  the  oppression  of  other 
nations  ? 106 

How  did  the  Athenians  and  their  allies  conquer  Xerxes 

and  his  great  Persian  fleet? 122 

By  whom  was  the  work  on  the  Corinthian  canal  com- 
menced?      124 


20     AROUND  THE  WORLD  WITH  BURTON  HOLMES 

PAGE 

From  what  city  in  Greece  did  Agamemnon  sail  to  conquer 

Troy? 135 

Give  briefly  the  history  of  Nauplia,  Greece 139 

What  grocer-boy  fulfilled  his  declaration  that  he  would 

find  the  cities  immortalized  by  1  Iomer? 146 

What  was  the  most  remarkable  archaeological  discovery 

ever  made  in  Greece? 146 

How  has  Mistra,  at  one  time  the  home  of  conquerors  of 

Greece,  been  annihilated? 166 

Compare  the  Arcadia  of  today  with  the  Arcadia  of  old 

Greek    history 178 

How  did  Thessaly  prove  the  cemetery  of  the  hopes  of 

Greece  ? 229 

Give  a  brief  resume  of  the  Greco-Turkish  war  of  1897.  .248,  251 
When    the    present    occupants    of    the    monasteries    have 

passed  away,  what  will  become  of  these  "Wonders  of 

Thessaly"  ?   284 

When  were  the  Meteora  monasteries  founded? 301 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  FOUR 

"If  one  would  read  understanding^  the 
world-book  of  travel  he  must  study  the  grt-ai 
first    chapter — the    genesis    of    history." 

World  Wonderful 

PAGE 

Landing  at  Alexandria,  after  a  most  delightful  trip  up  the 
Nile,  are  we  disappointed  in  the  city  that  according 
to  historians  represented  the  "Glory  that  was 
Greece"? 11 

If  "all  things  fear  time,  and  time  fears  the  Pyramids"  were 

they  man-made,  and  can  man  destroy  them? 54 

What  personification  of  mystery,  battered  and  broken  by 
the  attacks  of  Time  and  Alan,  still  bears  the  stony 
semblance  of  a  human  skull  ? 61 

Compare  the  palisades  of  the  Nile  with  those  of  the  Hud- 
son and  the  Grand  Canon 73 

What  was  the  first  great  monumental  city  of  the  world, 

and  what  now  marks  the  site  of  this  ancient  capital?     96 

In  what  way  does  Air.  Holmes  liken  the  ruins  of  Karnak, 

Egypt,  to  the  Grand  Canon  of  the  Arizona? 102 

Visit  with  Air.  Holmes  the  birthplace  of  the  obelisks  of 
Egypt  and  describe  how  the  block  of  granite  was 
shaped,  finished,  cut  loose  from  the  cliff  and  shipped 
down   the   Nile 120 

Gliding  along  the  Nile  with  Air.  Holmes,  what  Egyptian 
island  appears  like  "an  architectural  wonderland 
moored  in  the  moonlight  on  the  bosom  of  this  ancient 
stream"  ? 125 

Where  has  Rameses  II  left  an  everlasting  monument  that 
is  a  masterly  creation  of  architectural  genius  cut  in 
a  cliff  that  affords  a  rocky  dam  to  hold  in  check  the 
billows  of  the  sandy  sea  of  the  Sahara? 131 

Why  does  Air.  Holmes  call  Amalfi  "the  most  impossibly 

picturesque  little  town  in  all  Southern  Italy"? 176 

Where  do  we  find  a  cliff-built  city  whose  streets  are  often 

tunnels  running  through  or  under  the  houses? 176 

21 


22     AROUND  THE  WORLD  WITH   BURTON  HOLMES 

PAGE 

Note  illustrations  of  this  beautiful  town 177,  179,  180 

Study  the  charm  of  Capri  from  the  perspective  given  in 

illustration 198 

Where  do  we  find  a  grotto  so  blue  that  it  seems  the  only 
sample  of  real  azure  now  on  earth,  the  rest  being 
stored  in  the  heavens? 205 


Stand  with  Mr.  Holmes  in  the  amphitheater  of  Pompeii 
and  witness  Vesuvius  in  violent  eruption,  lifting  its 
cloudy  columns  nearly  two  miles  into  the  sky 243 

Which  one  of  the  Swiss  cities  is  undoubtedly  best  loved 

by  the  tourists? 273 

What  lake  is  called  the  "Lake  of  the  Four  Forest  Can- 
tons"?    284 

Where  is  the  "Jungfrau"  of  Switzerland,  and   why   is  it 

so   named  ? 295 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  FOUR  23 

PAGE 
Where   is  the  most  self-assertive,   the  most  savage   and 
the  cruelest-looking  mountain  peak  that  Nature  ever 
fashioned  ? 327 

Geographical  Settings 

What  great  river  is  the  life  of  Egypt? 6 

How  can  we  reach  Cairo,  the  metropolis  of  Egypt,  from 

Alexandria  ? 14 

What  is  the  distance  between  Alexandria  and  Cairo?....    14 
What  are  the  three  methods  of  travel  up  the  Nile,  and  how 

did  Air.  Holmes  make  the  trip? 68 

How  does  the  density  of  the  productive  area  of  Egypt 
compare  with  that  of  Belgium,  which  has  the  densest 

population  of  any  European  country? 77 

Where  is  Salerno,  and  how  does  the  city  and  the  bay  com- 
pare in  beauty  with  Naples  and  its  bay? 170 

Where  is  Mount  Vesuvius,  and  how  great  is  the  popula- 
tion living  within  sight  of  the  Vesuvian  cone? 217 

What  is  the  present  height  of  Vesuvius  and  how  long 

was  the  crater  in  action  in  1906? 254 

How  did  Mr.  Holmes  enter  Switzerland? 260 

Compare  the  area  of  Switzerland  with  the  state  of  New 
York,  and  its  population  with  that  of  the  city  of  New- 
York  306 

By  what  three  names  is  the  King  of  the  Alps  known?.  .  .   327 

Is  Mont  Blanc  in  Switzerland? 334 

Monte  Rosa,  the  highest  peak  in  the  land,  is  on  the  bound- 
ary line  between  what  two  countries? 334 

Manners  and  Customs 

What  does  Mr.  Holmes  say  of  "Shepheard's,"  the  original 

big  caravansary  for  the  Christian  tourist  in  Egypt?.  .      18 

Do    the   women    of  the    Mahommedan   religion    attend 

church  ? 31 

Because  of  his  belief  that  without  a  body,  the  soul  or 
spirit  must  perish,  how  did  the  old  Egyptian  prepare 
for  any  chance  decomposition? 49 

In  what  way  was  Rameses  II  the  originator  of  spectacular 

advertising-? 67 


24     AROUND  THE  WORLD  WITH  BURTON  HOLMES 

PAGE 

How  has  Rameses  II  proved  to  posterity  that  he  was  not 

only  a  great  king,  but  a  gallant  husband? 101,   132 

What  people  looked  upon  their  tomb  as  their  real  home, 

and  their  home  but  a  place  for  sojourn? 108 

How  do  the  Nubian  women  dress  their  hair,  and  what  is 
the  chief  apparel  of  the  boys  and  girls  of  this  Biblical 
land  of  Kush? 126 

What  people  do  not  look  upon  singing  as  an  art.  but  as  a 

means  of  expression  for  sorrow  or  joy? 148 

What  dues  Mr.  Holmes  say  of  the  squalor  of  the  Neapoli- 
tans who  greet  the  passing  traveler  in  such  throngs 
that  all  Naples  seems  dirty  and  ragged? 151 

Give  a  brief  description  of  the  home  life  of  the  Neapolitan 
who  finds  it  necessary  to  live  in  the  "windowless" 
flats  of  Naples 158 

In  what  Italian  metropolis  are  the  goats  driven  upstairs 
in  the  apartment  houses  so  that  the  purchaser  may 
be  assured  of  fresh  milk? 164 

What  people  are  such  inveterate  gamblers  that  the 
Government  runs  all  gambling  houses  and  places  the 
rake-oft'  in  the  public  treasury? 165 

How  do  the  people  of  southern  Italy  provide  for  the  cool- 
ing of  their  summer  drinks  where  ice  manufacture 
is  not  feasible? 183 

Where  do  we  find  women  carrying  loads  that  would  tax 

the  strength  of  a  pack-mule? 187 

How  many  languages  are  spoken  by  the  natives  oi  Switz- 
erland?     306 

Architecture 

Where  do  we  find  the  nine  most  graceful  domes  in  all  the 

realm   of  Saracenic   architecture? 33-34 

Describe  the  Mosque  of  Mohammed  AH,  and  note  the 
Strength  and  beauty  of  its  architecture  as  shown  in 
illustrations $8-39 

Illustrate  the  accuracy  of  the  ancient  architects  and 
engineers  through  the  test  made  by  modem  experts 
on  the  first  and  greatest  pyramid 56 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  FOUR 


25 


PAGE 


To  complete  the  tomb  of  Cheops,  how  many  men  labored 
for  how  many  years  ? 

Why  is  the  tomb  of  Cheops  called  the   Matterhorn   of 

masonry  ? 5° 

From  what  was  the  Sphinx  carved? 

Is  anything  known  of  this  mutilated  mask  that  seems 
to  "express  by  the  smile  of  those  closed  lips  the 
inanity  of  our  most  profound  human  conjecture"?.  . . 

Where  do  we  find  the  oldest  stone  superstructure  in  the 

world,  and  what  is  it  called? 67 

In  architectural  grace,  stony  dignity  and  sculptural 
beauty,  how  does  the  shrine  of  Hathor  at  Dendera 
compare  with  other  temples  of  Egypt? 92 


57 


62 


62 


Upon  what  huge  Egyptian  columns  could  a  Roman  cen- 
turion mass  one  hundred  men? 

Of  what  are  these  mammoth  columns  composed  and  how 
were  they  constructed? 

Where  buried  in  the  sands  blown  from  the  Arabian  desert 
do  we  find  the  beautiful  ruins  that  tell  of  the  Greek 
age  in  Egypt  ? 

Note  the  beautiful  and  varying  architectural  designs  of 

the  Venice  of  Egypt  in  illustrations 126-128 

Compare  the  curious  cloisters  of  La  Cava,  and  the  Sicilian 
cloisters  that  are  considered  the  most  beautiful  in 
the  world 169 


104 
104 

119 


26      AROUND  THE  WORLD  WITH  BURTON  HOLMES 

PAGE 

Of  what  period  and  style  of  architecture  are  the  temples 
of  Paestum,  Italy,  and  how  do  they  differ  from  the 
famous  temples  of  Athens? 172 

Visit  with  Mr.  Holmes  the  famous  Cappucini  cloisters  and 
tread  the  old  pergola  which  for  seven  centuries  has 
remained  unchanged 181 

Note  the  strange  Ischian  architecture  as  illustrated 208 

Note  illustrations  of  the  exterior  and  interior  of  one  of  the 

luxurious  Pompeian  palaces 237-38 

Does  the  architecture  of  Lucerne  change  with  the  times?  276 

Industrial  Life 

How  has  England  contributed  to  Egypt's  present  pros- 
perity?  9,  78 

What  is  the  daily  employment  of  three-fifths  of  the  adult 

population  of  Egypt? 74 

Describe  the  two  "immemorial  contrivances"  for  lifting 

water  from  the  Nile  for  industrial  purposes 74 

The  chimneys  of  what  great  industry  now  rise  like  smok- 
ing obelisks  where  once  the  thirsty  sands  prevailed?     78 

Where   at   one   time    was    laziness   a    secure   virtue,   and 

industry   a   dangerous  vice? 79 

What  system  of  free  labor  formerly  prevalent  in   Egypt 

has  now  been  abolished  by  the  English  protectorate?     84 

What  does  Mr.  Holmes  say  of  the  ice  industry  in  some 

of  the  minor  towns  of  southern  Italy? 183 

For  what  three  products  is  Switzerland  far-famed? 260 

What  beautiful  mountain  village  of  Switzerland  is  called 

the  village  of  hotels? 261 

How  do  the  natives  of  the  Engadine  thrive  so  prosper- 
ously near  the  edge  of  the  icy  wilderness  of  the  Alps?  264 

What  does  Mr.  Holmes  say  as  to  the  productiveness  of  the 

terraced  vineyards  of  Yaud? 315 

Education  and  Religion 

Where  do  we  find  the  seat  of  the  greatest  of  Moham- 
medan universities,  the  m<  ist  fam<  »us  educati<  mal  insti- 
tution of  the  Moslem  World? 24 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  FOUR  27 

PAGE 

Compare  the  spread  of  the  Moslem  belief  with  that  of 

the  other  religions  of  the  earth 25 

In  the  Mosque  of  El  Azhar,  do  we  find  many  students  in 

attendance,  and  by  what  is  the  curriculum  controlled?     25 

Name  some  of  the  subjects  taught  by  the  professors  in  the 

Mosque  of  El  Azhar 25 

What   countries   send  their   most  promising  young  men 

to  "commit  intellectual  suicide"  in  this  Mosque?....     27 

What  posture  does  the  student  assume  while  in  the  class- 
room, and  how  does  he  study  the  lessons  for  the  day?     27 

Why  is  Friday  regarded  as  a  holy  day  by  the  Moslem?.  .27-28 

Who  are  the  six  great  prophets  revered  by  the  Moslem, 

and  why  do  they  worship  Mohammed  and  no  other?.  .     28 

Repeat  the  Moslem  call  to  prayer 33 

How  many  times  a  day  are  the  calls  to  prayer  given?.  ...      33 

How  often  does  the  "Holy  Carpet"  with  its  pious  follow- 
ers make  the  pilgrimage  to  Mecca? 41 

What  great  thinker  and  writer  of  Greece  spent  thirteen 

years  under  the  tutelage  of  the  priests  of  Amnion?.  .      52 

What  city  in  Egypt  was  once  famous  for  its  religion  and 

philosophy  ? 53 

From  what  is  the  expression  "sphinx-like"  derived? 62 

Who  are  the  Copts  of  Egypt  and  what  do  they  represent?     70 

Where  did  Mr.  Holmes  encounter  the  small  lad  who,  in- 
stead of  asking  for  "backsheesh,"  wanted  an  English 
book? 82 

Whom  do  the  Egyptians  consider  the  deity  of  the  dead, 

and  where  was  his  head  entombed  ? 87 

To  be  buried  near  the  tomb  of  what  god  was  the  pious 

wish  of  every  Egyptian  ? 87 

Who  were   the   priests   of  Ammon,   and   what   does   Mr. 

Holmes  say  of  their  former  wealth  and  power  ?.52,  96,  106 

What  has  become  of  the  obelisks  that  once  stood  before 
the  great  temples  that  marked  the  intellectual  center 
of  the  world  ? 53 

No  matter  how  poor  the  Neapolitan  family,  what  evidence 

is  always  found  of  religious  fidelity? 158 

Why  are  the  churches  in  Naples  termed  the  "palaces  of 

the   poor"? 159 


28      AROUND  THE  WORLD  WITH  BURTON  HOLMES 

PAGE 

To   whom   were  the   Greek  temples,  found   at    Paestum, 

Italy,   dedicated? 171 

Describe  the  festival  of  San   Costanzo,  the  patron   saint 

of   Capri 199 

Relate  the  destruction  of  over  one  hundred  natives  of 
San  Giuseppe  while  kneeling  in  prayerful  supplica- 
tion for  deliverance  from  the  fury  of  Vesuvius 248 

Art  and  Literature 

How  does  the  famous  wooden  statue  of  the  Sheik,  one  of 
the  oldest  works  of  art  in  the  world,  make  the  ancient 
Egyptians  seem  more  real  ? 46 

Note  the  perfectly  preserved  works  of  art  to  be  found 
upon  the  walls  of  Seti's  temple  at  Abydos.  What 
do  these  figures  represent? 89 

Study  carefully  the  illustrations  of  the  art  creations  of 

over  three  thousand  years  ago 88-9,  98-9,  100 

To  whom  did  the  oldest  known  art-work  in  jewelry  be- 
long, and  where  was  it  found? 91 

Who  was  the  Venus  of  the  Nile  in  Egyptian  mythology, 
and  what  great  temple  was  dedicated  to  tins  god- 
dess?   92,  93 

Where  do  we  find,  on  pillars  as  tall  as  the  Parthenon,  clus- 
tered papyrus  stems  of  stone  crowned  by  the  stone- 
buds  of  the  papyrus  and  lotus,  so  real  and  beautiful 
that  they  seem  to  have  sprung  from  the  sacred  soil 
instead  of  the  chisel  of  the  sculptor? 98 

In  searching  the  underground  burial  places  of  the  Theban 
Pharaohs  what  lasting  testimony  of  the  early  artists 
is    there    found  ? Ill 

How  did  Richard  Wagner  happily  describe  the  famous 
old  Rufolo  palace  in  Ravello,  Italy? 190 

What  modern  writer  dwelt  in  a  villa  on  the  Sorrentino 
cliffs  and  there  wrote  hi'-  "Saracinesca"  and  "Ave 
Roma    Immortalis"? 197 

How  has  the  region  west  of  Naples  hern  immortalized?..   211 

How  has  Shakespeare  given  us  a  bit  of  the  human  history 

of  the  i>le  of  Nisida? 215-216 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  FOUR 


29 


PAGE 

How  does  Vesuvius  live  in  the  literature  of  the  past  and 

present  ? 217 

How  has  Pliny  so  well   described  the  terrible  Vesuvian 

"pigna"  ? 220 

Observe  carefully  the  illustrations  of  the  "Smoke  Pine  of 

Vesuvius" 221-223 

How  did  Vesuvius  so  carefully  seal  the  town  of  Hercu- 
laneum  that  even  the  libraries  of  papyrus  scrolls  have 
been  found  in  a  state  of  perfect  preservation? 232 


p2L  BRIENZ 
L  THl'N"*^!»*iNTERLAKEN 
LAUTERWQNrE„N#  A'EIGER  <SST.GOTHARD 


_AUSANNE  MURREN- 

,  VEY  "JUNGFRAl 

'    .•''    NTREUX 
■VA         CHILLON 


ZERMATTf 
'•..   5T.BERNARD-----..         :f'      L.MAG6 
''•..      .-••''  '       MATTERHORN 


•DAVOS 


What  author  has  written  so  vividly  of  the  Pompeians  that 
they  seem  alive  to  us  as  we  visit  the  ruins  of  their 
city? 237 

How  does  Mr.  Holmes  so  happily  describe  the  satisfying 

impressiveness  of  mountains? 259 

Carefully  study  the  three  illustrations  of  Thorwaldsen's 
"Lion  of  Lucerne"  so  as  to  bring  out  the  wonderful 
artistic  beauty  of  this  masterpiece? 278-281 

What  Swiss  lake,  famous  in  poetry  and  song,  is  the  lake 

of  Byron's  "Prisoner  of  Chillon"? 312 


30      AROUND  THE  WORLD  WITH  BURTON   IK  iLMES 
History  and  Government 

PAGE 

In  visiting  Egypt,  the  mother  country  of  antiquity,  do  we 

still  find  the  grandeur  and  greatness  of  the  past?.  ...       6 

Under  what  government  do  we  find  Egypt,  and  what  has 
been  the  influence  of  this  government  upon  the  phys- 
ical, moral  and  financial  condition  o\  the  country?.  . .        9 

The  modernization  of  Cairo  was  the  work  of  what  Khed- 
ive of  Egypt,  and  how  did  his  extravagances  practi- 
cally place  his  realm  in  pawn  ? 20 

Tell  the  story  of  Mohammed  Ali's  utter  annihilation  of 
the  Mameluke  cavaliers  who  came  to  break  bread 
with  him  in  the  sign  of  peace 58-39 

How    does    dead    antiquity    live    again    in    the    National 

Museum  at  Cairo? 45 

What  lost  art  of  the  past  makes  possible  a  present  study 

of  the  ancient  kings  of  Egypt? 49 

Compare  the  hawk-like  face  of  Egypt's  master  of  over 
three  thousand  years  ago,  with  the  nobler,  but  less 
masterful  features  of  his  father,  Seti  1 50-51 

"Who  was  called  the  Alexander  of  old  Egypt,  having  van- 
quished 62S  nations;  and  in  what  way  did  he  com- 
memorate  his    jubilees? 52 

"What  are  the  pyramids,  what  do  they  represent  and  by 

whom  were  they  constructed? 55 

Where  did  the  historians  find  recorded  the  invaluable  list 

of  all  the  rulers  from  King  Menes  to  Seti  the  First?.  .     90 

What  was  the  ancient  name  for  Naples,  Italy? 148 

Cite    the    mythological    history    of    the    famous    siren    for 

whom   ancient    Naples   was   named? 148 

Winn  was  ]  taly  a  ( ireek  c<  >1<  »ny? 171 

What  Italian  city  of  the  Greeks,  once  more  powerful  than 

Ri  >me.  is  n<  >w  alm<  >st  unkn<  i  ami  ? 172 

How  has  the  prosperity  of  Amalfi  decreased  and  in  what 

way  has  nature  assisted   its  decline? 176 

How  did  the  early  Romans  utilize  what  is  now  the  "Blue 

Grotto"    of   Capri? 206 

What  German  poet,  forgotten  as  a  poet,  is  remembered 

for  his  discovery  of  the  "Blue  *  rr<  itti  >"  >  >f  Italy  ? 206 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  FOUR  31 

PAGE 

In  what  town,  buried  beneath  a  modern  village  at  the  base 
of  old  \  esuvius,  has  been  found  evidence  of  wealth 

and  culture  much  greater  than  that  of  Pompeii? 232 

In  what  year  occurred  the  fall  of  Pompeii? 235 

From  what  did  the  town  of  Lucerne  derive  its  name?...   275 
Of    what    event    in    history    is    the    Lion    of    Lucerne    a 

memorial  ? 278 

For  how  long  is  the  President  of  Switzerland  elected?. . .    305 
What  does  Mr.  Holmes  say  as  to  the  government  of  this 

country  ? 305 

Where  do  we  find  the  birthplace  and  the  headquarters  of 

the  LTniversal  Postal  Union  ? 311 

What  famous  old  medieval  castle  required  the  combined 
strength  of  an  army  of  seven  thousand  men  and  a  lake 
fleet  to  wrest  it  from  the  tyrant  Chas.  Ill  of  Savoy?  313 
Tell  the  story  of  the  conquest  of  the  Matterhorn 327 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  FIVE 

Wandering  from  clime  to  clime  observant 
st  rave  J. 
Their  manners  noted  and  their  states  surveyed." 

The  World  Wonderful 

PAGF. 

Where  do  we  find  more  populous  and  vaster  catacombs 

than  those  of  Italy? 20 

Explore,  with   Burton   Holmes,  the  wonderful  parks  and 

f<  irests  i  »f   Fontainebleau 70 

What  interesting-  discovery  off  the  northwest  coast  of 
France  proves  that  what  is  now  a  part  of  the  Bay  ^i 
Brittany  was  formerly  a   forest  ? 89 

The  skulls  of  what  species  of  wild  animals,  not  of  known 
existence  since  the  time  of  Caesar,  were  found  l»uried 
beneath   the   sands  of  this   bay: S9 

Upon  what  mountain  peak  do  we  behold,  like  Constantine, 
a  cross  set  in  the  heavens;  from  whence  "the  very 
skies  speak  to  us  of  the  resurrection  and  the  ascen- 
sion" ? 163 

Read  Burton  Holmes'  delightful  description  of  the  even- 
ing' before  the  great  Passion  Play  when  "all  nature 
is  hushed  as  if  in  expectation  ^>i  the  morrow".  .  .  .163-164 

Compare  the  scenic  beauty  >>\  the  western  coast  of  Corsica 
with  the  beautiful  and  world-famous  section  between 
Nice  and  the  frontier  < >f  Italy 228 

Where    is    the    most    wonderful    and    picturesque    gorge 

called  the  "Stairway  of  the  Holy  Queen"? 239 

Visit    with    Mr.    Holmes   the   Vizzavona    forest   which    is 

"folded  round  the  shoulders  of  Corsica" 252 

.Vote  the  illustrations  of  the  massive  ruggedness  "i  the 
mountain-  of  Corsica,  and  the  silent,  somber  towns 

that  "seem  to  sleep  along  the  mountain  sides" 

236.  237.  241.  243.  245 

Describe  the  famous  marine  cave  in  the  cliff  of  Bonifacio. .283-5 

32 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  FIVE  33 

Manners  and  Customs 

PAGE 

How  is  the  National  Fete  of  France  celebrated? 35-36 

What  will  you  see  on  a  visit  with  Burton  Holmes  to  some 

of  the  famous  cafes  and  pleasure  resorts  round  about 

Paris  such  as : 

The  Red  Mill,  or  "Le  Moulin  Rouge"? 41 

Tavern  of  "The  Four  Arts"  ? 44 

Cafe  of  Death  ? 47 

Black  Cat,  or  "Chat  Noir "? 54 

Where,  as  we  journey  round  about  Paris,  can  we  dine 
amid  the  cool,  leafy  branches  of  a  "tree-top"  res- 
taurant ? 61 

How  does  the  Renting  Committee,  or  "Wohnungs 
Bureau,"  provide  for  the  many  visitors  who  throng 
the  village  of  Oberammergau  every  ten  years? 122 

In  what  country  does  the  term  "maid  of  all  work"  find 

its  most  fitting  illustration? 126 

By  what  names  do  we  find  the  Ammergauers  greeting 

each  other  in  daily  life? 132 

Is  dancing  permitted  in  Oberammergau  during  the  season 

for  the   Passion   Play  ? 135 

How  do  the  Ammergau  folk  prepare  in  their  daily  life  for 
the  parts  they  are  hopeful  of  "re-living"  in  the  great 
Passion   Play? 141-150 

How  have  the  Ammergauers  regulated  the  purchase  of 

tickets  for  the  drama  enacted  every  ten  years? 172 

How  do  the  Ammergauers  distribute  the  profits  of  the 

Passion  Play,  and  are  the  actors  well  paid? 174 

Are  wigs,  paints  and  make-up  used  by  the  actors  in  the 

Passion  Play? 184 

Are  the  Corsicans  a  brave  people  ? 228 

Have  the  French  been  successful  in  transforming  the  war- 
like people  of  Corsica? 231 

What   does   Mr.   Holmes   say  of  the  splendid   roads   of 

Corsica  ? 235-236 

What  Corsican  leader  slew  his  wife  because  she  agreed 

to  surrender  herself  and  child  to  the  Genoese? 244 

In  what  way  is  the  Corsican  bandit  a  social  regulator?. .  260 


34   AROUND  THE  WORLD  WITH  BURTON  HOLM  ES 

r  VGE 
Describe  the  centuries-old  "vendetta"  for  which  Corsica 

is  famous 305-309 

How  has  the  "vendetta"  been  aptly  defined? 306 

What  ruler  of  Corsica   would  accept  no  other  title  than 

"the  Father  of  his  Country,"  and  lived,  while  dictate  r. 

simply  as  a  native  mountaineer? 327 

Architecture 

Where  in  Paris  is  the  structure  erected  by  the  old  monks 

of  Cluny,  and  what  is  its  present  use? 15-16 


PARIS 
\  ICINlTt 


If  the  swift,  invisible  canals  of  the  sewers  of  Paris  were 
connected  end  to  end  hew  many  hundred  miles  could 
you  travel  without  leaving  your  boat? 19 

Where   can    the   "Round   About    Paris"    visitor   walk   for 

miles  between  unbroken  walls  of  human  bones? 23 

What  church  in  Paris  has  a  solid  cement  foundation  cost- 
ing mi  >re  than  a  millu  m  di  >llars  ? 40 

Where  do   we   find   one  of   the   special   landmarks  of  the 

American  in  Paris? 41 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  FIVE  35 

PAGE 

Describe  the  ruined  towers  and  donjon-keep  of  Coucy ;  the 
structure  that  still  stands  as  a  "monument"  to  the 
durability  of  the  early  French  masonry 78 

What  two  famous  castles,  at  one  time  owned  by  Louis 
of  Orleans,  are  considered  the  two  finest  specimens  of 
feudal  architecture  in  France? 85 

Of  what  structure  in  Normandy  has  it  been  said  that  "man 
and  nature  have  worked  in  concert  to  produce  this 
wonder  in  piled-up  rock  and  cavern  stone"? 103 

Describe  the  wonderful  architecture  of  the  Abbey  of  Mont 
Saint  Michel,  the  building  known  as  "La  Merveille," 
or  "The  Marvel" 105-106 

Note    carefully    illustrations    of   this    "most    astonishing 

structure  in  the  world" 101-104-105-107-109-110 

Give  the  design  and  plan  of  the  Passion  theater  at  Ober- 

ammergau 165 

Who  designed  the  Passion  Theater? 165 

What  does  Burton  Holmes  say  as  to  the  general  plan  and 
the  artistic  setting  of  the  stage  on  which  the  Passion 
Play   is   enacted  ? 17? 

In  what  way  does  Bastia,  the  most  populous  city  of 
Corsica,  bear  the  stamp  of  that  Italian  city  which  so 
long  and  so  cruelly  ruled   its   destinies? 233 

Where  do  we  find  quarries  of  the  finest  building  stone  and 

marble  which  are  left  practically  untouched? 233 

Where  will  you  find  in  a  foreign  land  a  chateau  built  from 

the  stones  of  the  original  palace  of  the  Tuileries?. . . .  288 

Industrial  Life 

Where  do  we  find  the  Halles  Centrales,  or  what  Zola 
calls  the  "stomach  of  Paris,"  and  what  is  the  area 
of  this  vast  market-place? 23 

About  how  much  does  the  great  city  of  Paris  spend  daily 

for  food? 24 

What  store  in  Paris  is  termed  the  parent  of  the  big  depart- 
ment stores  of  all  lands  ? 27 

What  are  the  chief  resources  of  the  inhabitants  of  the 

island  of   Mont  Saint-Michel? 9fc" 


36      AROUND  THE  WORLD  WITH  BURTON  HOLMES 

PAGE 

How  do  the  villagers  of  Oberammergau  dispose  of  the 
products  of  their  chisels  during  the  ten-year  periods 
between   the    Passion    Plays? 129 

What  is  the  1<  »cal  industry  of  the  Ammergauers ? 130 

How  has  the  local  industry  of  Oberammergau  been  pre- 
served?     129-130 

In  the  manufacture  of  Bavarian  stoves  why  is  it  necessary 

to  be  a  potter  as  well  as  a  stovemaker? 130 

To  what   does   the   city   of  Ajaccio   owe   its   commercial 

importance  ? 232 

Why  do  the  Corsicans,  poor  as  they  are,  import  laborers  to 
perform  the  heavy  work  on  the  roads  and  in  the 
fields? 284 

Education  and  Religion 

What  Pope  was  held  a  prisoner  at  Fontainebleau,  and  by 

whom  ? 76 

How  did  the  dedication  of  a  chapel  forever  fix  the  name  of 

Mont    Saint-Michel? 90 

In  the  legend  of  St.   Michael  and  the  Demon,  how  does 

the  saint  outwit  his  evil  neighbor? 90 

Why  is  photographing  in  the  Passion  Theater  absolutely 

forbidden? 157 

Where  is  the  "marble  crucifixion-group"  of  Oberam- 
mergau ? 163 

Note  illustratii  in  of  this  group 165 

Read  Burton  Holmes'  vivid  description  of  the  most  im- 
pressive dramatic  representation  of  modern  times  - - 
the  Passii  >n  Play  : 

The  Chorus 177.   1S2 

"Christus" 183 

Mary 184 

The  High  Priest 185-186 

1  Vter  and  John 189 

Pontius    Pilate 189 

Judas 190.  193 

Who  for  thirty  years  was  the  "Christus"  in  the  Passion 

Play,  and  in  1900  appeared  as  the  "Prologus"? 178 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  FIVE  37 

PAGE 

Note  the  high  type  of  human  nubility  and  dignity  por- 
trayed by  this  man  as  shown  in  the  halftone 179 

What  are  the  duties  of  the  Choragus  in  the  Passion  Play, 
and  how  many  times  does  the  chorus  make  its  appear- 
ance?     181-182 

How  many  actors  take  part  in  this  sacred  drama? 197 

Describe  the  impressiveness  of  the  scene  on  "Calvary" 
and  the  effect  on  the  audience  as  they  witness  the 
enactment  of  this  sublimest  sacrifice 202 


Why    do   the   Ammergauers    perform    the    Passion    Play 

every  ten  years  ? 204,  208 

Why  has   the   Passion   Play  been   sometimes  called   the 

"Gospel  according  to  St.  Daisenberger"? 211 

What  four  men  are  termed  the  "fathers"  of  the  Passion 

Play? 212 

What  fateful  words  written  by  the  boy  Napoleon  on  the 
last  page  of  his  copy-book,  were  written  in  tears  upon 
the  last  page  of  his  life  ? 266 


38      AROUND  THE  WORLD  WITH   BURTON   HOLMES 

PAGE 

In  what  way  does  Napoleon  speak  of  his  early  education?  267 
What  can  be  said  of  the  Corsicans'  respect  and  desire  for 

learning? 283-284 


Art  and  Literature 

Where,  in  Paris,  do  we  find  an  outdoor  bookshop  two 
miles  in  length,  so  free  and  accessible  that  *'he  who 
walks  may   read"  ? 14 

How  much  did  Millet's  famous  painting  "The  Angelus" 
bring,  just  fifteen  years  after  the  death  of  the  arti-t. 
who,  while  living,  was  deprived  of  even  life's  neces- 
sities ? 70 

What   two   great   painters  are   together  immortalized   in 

the  loveliest  forest  of  France,  and  how? 70 

In    what    way    was    the    Oberammergau     school   of    art 

founded,  and  h<  »w  perpetuated? 129 

Observe  the  sacred  frescoes  on  one  of  the  Oberammergau 

h<  mies  as  shi  »wn  in  illustratii  »n 141 

Study  carefully  the  masterly  photographic  reproductions 

of  the  great  scenes  in  the  Passi<  m   Play 

194.  195,  197.  198,  199.  201,  202, '203,  205,  207,  208 

How  does  the  Passi<  in  Play  <  if  today  differ  from  the  sacred 

drama  of  the  middle  ages  ? 209 

What  two  men  were  distinctly  responsible  for  its  present 

dignity  and  literary  merit? 209-210 

\\  ho  wrote  the  plaintive  music  for  the  Passion  Play,  and 
at  his  death,  tin  »ugh  but  22  years  i  if  age,  left  a  musical 
monument  of  masses  and  sacred  compositions? 212 

How  many  thousand  volumes  of  praise  or  censure  illumi- 
nate Napoleon's  progress  from  his  humble  birthplace 
ti  i  the  imperial  t<  >mb  ? 266 

When  did  Nap<  »le<  »n  write  a  "I  Ii-t<  iry  i  if  I  a  >rsica"? 270 

What  were  the  strongest  characterises  of  this  history, 

and   what  was  it-  value? 270 

What  great  philosopher  and  stoic,  banished  by  Claudius 
to  a  tower  in  Corsica,  wrote  from  thence  an  essay 
on  the  "Mercy  of  Nero,"  by  whom  he  was  recalled  and 
later  condemned  t<  >  death  ? 33-1 


OBSERVATIONS   VIA  VOLUME  FIVE 


39 


History  and  Government 


PAGE 
35 


What  is  the  date  of  the  National  Fete  of  France?.  .  .  . 

In  what  historic  old  palace  did  Napoleon  bid  farewell  to 

the  "Old   Guard"  ? 74 

What  monarch,  by  a  stroke  of  the  pen,  plunged  France 
into  a  religious  civil  war  and  turned  back  many  pages 
in  the  book  of  progress  ? 75 


What  is  the  population  of  Oberammergau? 123 

Who  fur  forty  years  was  the  ruling  spirit  of  the  Passion 
Play,  and  in  the  village  was  termed  the  "Bismarck 
of   Oberammergau"  ? 186 

When    was    the    first   performance    of   the    Passion    Play 

given,  and  where  ? 208 

When  was  Corsica  conquered  by  the  Romans,  what  other 
nations  have  tried  to  rule  this  people,  and  under  what 
nation's  control  is  the  island  now? 228 


40      AROUND  THE  WORLD  WITH  BURTON  HOLMES 

PAGE 

How  far  is  it  from  Bastia,  the  most  populous  city  of  Cor- 
sica, to  Ajaccio,  the  capital,  and  what  is  the  nature 
of  the  country  through  which  you  pass? 234 

What  is  the  length  and  breadth  of  the  mountain-capped 

island  of  Corsica  ? 236 

What  country  boasts  a  line  of  heroes  "with  characters 
as  rugged  as  her  scenery,  with  souls  as  inspiring  as 
her  mountain-peaks"? 241 

What  isolated  people  numbering  about  three  hundred 
thousand,  have  not  yet  known  a  hundred  years  of 
peace  ? 24 1 

What  little  city  in  the  heart  of  Corsica  was  the  rallying 
point  of  the  patriotic  leaders,  and  the  last  refuge  of 
Corsican   independence? 242 

In  what  country  does  a  band  of  outlaws  control  local  elec- 
tions and  municipal  appointments,  and  levy  assess- 
ments upon   rich  and  poor  alike? 258 

Give  the  early  history  of  the  "Buonapartes" 262 

What    proclamation    made    Napoleon    a    Frenchman    by 

birth,  though  of  Corsican  descent? 265 

Where  and  when  was  Napoleon  born? 265 

Name  some  incidents  of  Napoleon's  early  life  that  illus- 
trate his  intense  patri<  >tism 268-269 

What  famous  woman,  the  mother  of  an  emperor,  three 
kings,  and  three  princesses,  was  dependent  upon  the 
bounty  of  the  state  ? 269-270 

In  what  country  did  Napoleon  receive  his  military  hon- 
ors?    270 

When  and  where  did  the  women  i>\  a  country  don  the 
armor  of  their  sick  and  dead,  and  parade  around 
the  city  walls  to  make  the  enemy  believe  that  re- 
inforcements had  arrived? 277 

How   did    the    island    of    Corsica    become    a    province    of 

France? 280 

Tell  of  Paoli's  strange  but  interesting  rule  of  Corsica,  and 

how  he  eventually  died  in  exile 315-323 

What  docs  Burton  Holmes  say  of  the  numerous  towers 

encircling  the  island  of  Corsica? 328 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  SIX 

"  A  man  must  carry  knowledge  with  him  if 
he   would   bring   home   knowledge.  ' 

Manners  and  Customs 

PAGE 

Describe  the  "East  End"  of  London  and  its  famous  Petti- 
coat Lane 23-24 

Where  may  the  shopgirl  literally  look  down  upon  Milady 

in  her  smart  victoria  ? 47 

What  church  is  world-famous  for  its  fashionable  marriage 

ceremonies  ? 55 

Residence  in  what  avenue  is  considered  a  social  passport 

in    London  ? 57 

How  does  Mr.  Holmes  characterize  the  East  and   West 

Ends    of    London  ? 59-60 

What  street  is  called  the  plexus  of  the  nervous  system  of 

the    Empire  ? 87 

In  what,  according  to  Mr.  Holmes,  lies  the  chief  charm 

of    London  ? 88 

Where  was  a  barber  sued  for  making  and  selling  coffee?.  .  89 
Why  is  the  City  of  the  Seine  "all  things  to  all  men"?...  115-116 
From  what  part  of  the  medieval  city  do  the  boulevards  of 

modern  Paris  take  their  name? 126 

How  has  the  night  prowling  criminal  of  Paris  acquired 

the  American   Indian  title  of  "Apache"? 148 

How  does   Mr.  Holmes  regard  the  universal  appellation 

of  Paris — -"Gay  Paree"? 172 

Where  and  how  may  the  tourist  find  the  queer  old  streets 

and  quarters  of  the  "Quartier  du  Marais"? 185 

Who    was  the    inventor  of  the    guillotine,   and    has   he 

received  credit  therefore? 199 

In  what  great  city  do  we  find  an  edevated   railroad  so 

screened  by  foliage  that  the  average  passerby  cannot 

detect    it  ? 260 

Compare  the  local  transportation  service  of  Berlin  with 

that  of  Chicago 260-261 

4i 


42      AROUND  THE  WORLD  WITH   BURTON   HOLMES 

PACE 

Of  what  descent  are  the  dwellers  of  the  Spreewald,  and 

has  Germany  been  able  to  modernize  these  people?.  .  291 

Descrihe    the    "Tiicher"   or    national     headdress    of    the 

Wendish    women 267,  293 

Glide  with  Mr.  Holmes  along  the  swift  and  silent  canals 
of  the  exquisite  "rural  Venice"  of  Berlin,  noting  the 
beautiful  landscape  and  quaint  ways  and  customs  of 
the  Wendish  people 298 

Describe  the  "Parademarsch,"  or  the  saluting  step  of  the 

( rerman   army 316 


LONDON 

o       j4      fi.      y*       i       i/*     i/t 

MILES 


1 — Albert    Memorial. 
2      Pall    Mall. 
8     St.    James    Palace. 
4     Trafalgar    Square. 
5 — National    Gallery. 


G — Horse   Guards. 

7  X''\\    Scotland    Yard. 

8  Bouses   hi    Parliament. 

9  Covenl    Garden. 
in     Lincoln's    Inn. 


11 — Drury  Lane. 

12  Old   Law   Courts. 

13  Charterhouse. 

i  1     st.    rani's   ( lathedral. 
] .".      Dower    of    London. 


Architecture 

What  famous  building,  later  a  prison,  was  at  one  time  a 

n  iyal  palace  of  England  ? 13 

Compare  "St.  rani's"  of  London  with  "St.  Peter's"  of 
Koine  and  the  cathedrals  of  Milan.  Seville  and  Flor- 
ence      29 

Describe  Buckingham  Palace,  which  was  made  by  Queen 

Victoria  the  official  Royal  Residence  in  London 82 

the  exterior  of  the  "(  "iirt  of  St.  James"  correspond 
with  the  splendor  of  its  interior? SI 

What    early    style   of   architecture    is    represented    by    the 

Catholic   Cathedral  of   Westminster? 93 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  SIX  43 

PAGE 

Of  what  material  is  the  New  Palace  of  Westminster  con- 
structed ? 106 

What  two  great  towers  are  among  the  most  graceful  in 

the  world  ? 107 

What  Abbey  has   been   the  mausoleum  of  the  kings  of 

France  for  thirteen  hundred  years? 127 

What  famous  prison  was  once  one  of  the  fortified  city 

gates  of  Paris  ? 129 

Of  what  was  the  Yendome  column  made,  and  what  victory 

does  it  commemorate? 130-131 

Compare  the  Yendome  column  of  Paris  with  the  Trajan 

column  of  old  Rome 131 

What  is  the  finest  purely  modern  structure  of  Paris,  and 

what  site  reeking  with  tragic  memories  does  it  mark?  139 

How  many  bridges  span  the  Seine  between  Charenton  and 

Auteuil  ? 143 

The  tower  of  what  famous  old  palace  is  adorned  with  the 

most  beautiful  and  elaborate  clock  in  Paris? 153 

Note  the  exterior  and  interior  of  Notre  Dame  as  shown 
in  the  splendid  illustrations  of  this  church  of  "Our 
Lady  of  Paris" 154-161 

Which  of  the  architectural  gems  of  Paris  is  described  by 
Mr.  Holmes  as  "graceful  and  delicate  as  a  chiseled 
jewel  casket,"  externally;  and  internally  "as  glorious 
in  color  as  if  made  of  nothing  more  material  than 
the  substance  of  a  rainbow" 157-158 

To  the  genius  of  what  French  architect  does  France  owe 
the  artistic  restoration  of  so  many  of  her  medieval 
monuments  ? 160 

Where  do  Ave  find  a  church  of  such  strange  architectural 
design  that  it  appears  to  be  several  churches  inter- 
penetrating the  other? 166 

What  is  the  most  "artistic  architectural  fragment"  sur- 
viving the  campaign  of  Paris  improvement? 172 

Give  the  history  of  the  famous  old  Musee  de  Cluny 175 

What  monument  nearly  a  thousand  feet  in  height,  which 
Mr.  Holmes  describes  as  an  inverted  question-mark, 
veritably  dominates  the  city  of  Paris? 219 


44      AROUND  THE  WORLD  WITH  BURTON  HOLMES 

PACE 

Contrast  the  simple  grandeur  of  the  present  tomb  of  the 
"Prisoner  of  St.  Helena"  with  the  crude  simplicity 
of  the  tomb  in  which  he  lay  so  many  years 220-221 

Where  is  the  tomb  of  Prussia's  most  illustrious  and  eccen- 
tric monarch,  Frederick  the  Great? 280 

What  palace   was   the   favorite   abode   of   Frederick   the 

Great?   281 

Where  is  the  Brandenburg  ( rate,  and  of  what  is  it  an 

imitation  ?   303 

Describe  the  Opera  1  louse  of  Berlin.     What  ruler  caused 

its  erection  ? 311 

To  the  genius  of  what  architect  does  Berlin  owe  much  of 

its  noble  aspect? 318 

Education  and  Religion 

What  Catholic   Saxon   king"  built  the  greatest  and   most 

famous  of  the  churches  of  old  London? 94 

To  what  does  Westminster  Abbey  owe  its  present  name?     94 
By  what  other  name  is  Westminster  Abbey  known?.  ...      94 

What  Chapel  is  literally  "paved  with  princes"? 103 

To  shelter  what  sacred  relics  was  the  Sainte  Chapelle  of 

the  Palace  of  Justice  designed ? 158 

Where  are  these  precious  and  holy  relics  now  preserved?  158 

Wdiat  church  is  called  "Our  Lady  of  Paris"? 159 

What  is  the  Latin  Quarter,  and  why  is  it  so  called? 164 

Where  is  the  huge  educational  palace  of  La  Sorbonne,  and 

how  was  it  founded? 164-165 

St.  Etienne-Du-Mont  is  the  shrine  of  what  sainted  pa- 
troness of  Paris? 168 

What  three  great  men  whose  influence,  though  somewhat 
pagan,   has   been   incalculable,   sleep  in   the  crypt  of 

the  Pantheon  of  Paris? 168 

From  the  purely  scientific  viewpoint  what  one  woman  has 

gone  deepest  into  the  great   mystery  of  being? 170 

By  whom  and  for  what  purpose  was  the  Academie  Fran- 
chise fi  lunded  ? 190 

Why  are  the  members  of  the  Academie  Francaise  called 

"Immortals"  ? 190 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  SIX 


45 


PAGE 

What  great  French   philosopher  spent  three  years  as  a 

guest  of  Frederick  the  Great? 281 

Are  the  Wendish  people  a  church-loving  folk? 294 

Art  and  Literature 

Where   is   "Cleopatra's   Needle"   located,   and    what   has 

been   its   history  ? 7 

Where    did    Walter   Raleigh    write    his    "History    of   the 

World"?    17 


1- 

-Isle  de  la  Cite\ 

16- 

-  Place  de  la  Concorde. 

■>_ 

-Notre   Dame. 

17- 

-Place   Vendome. 

3- 

Hotel   de  Ville. 

18- 

-Grand   Opera   House. 

4- 

-institute. 

1 0- 

-Place  de   la   Republique. 

.)— 

-L'ficole   des   Beaux   Arts. 

20- 

-Montparnasse. 

C»- 

-Louvre. 

21- 

-Eiffel    Tower. 

i  - 

-I'aiais   Royal. 

•>•>_ 

-Arc   de   Triomphe. 

V- 

-Tuileries. 

23— 

-Montmartre   Cemetery. 

9- 

-I'aiais    de    Luxembourg. 

24- 

-Bois  de   Boulogne. 

10- 

-Boulevard  St.  Michel. 

25— 

-Champs    Elvsees. 

11- 

-Pantheun. 

26- 

-Hotel   des   Invalides. 

12- 

-.Tardin  des   Plantes. 

27- 

—Madeleine. 

1  ::- 

-Place  de  la  Bastille. 

28 

—Avenue  de  Clichv. 

14- 

llallcs  Centrales. 

29- 

-Pere  Lachaise  Cemetery 

15- 

-Bourse. 

30- 

—Place  de  la  Nation. 

What  noted  author  is  buried  within  the  precincts  of  the 

Temple  of  London  ? 32 

The  pen  of  what  beloved  English  author  pointed  the  way 

to  the  "Inns  of  Court"? 33 

Who  has   said  that  "a   fine  gallery  of  pictures  is  like  a 

palace  of  thought"? 44 


46      AROUND  THE  WORLD  WITH  BURTON  HOLMES 

PAGE 

Where  in  London  do  we  find  a  gallery  where  "each  canvas 
marks  a  summit  scaled,  an  Alpine  height  in  art,  a 
pinnacle  of  perfection  beyond  which  human  inspira- 
tion cannot  go"  ? 44 

In  what  novel  did  Thackeray  immortalize  the  founder  of 

the  wonderful  "Wallace  collection"? 50 

Where  is  there  a  stone  roof  so  beautifully  chiseled  by  the 

artist  that  it  has  "the  airy  security  of  a  cobweb"?.  .  .    103 

Where  is  the  largest  theater  building  in  the  world,  and  of 

what  arts  is  it  the  center? 121 

Where  is  the  home  of  the  most  nearly  perfect  acting  that 

can  be  seen? 135 

Name  some  of  the  famous  dramatic  artists  who  made  their 

debut  in  this  theater 136 

Note  the  clear  sculptorial  beauty  of  the  statues  of  Alfred 

De  Musset  and  Camille  Desmoulins 135,  136 

What  French  writer  has  been  termed  "the  tearful  poet"?  136 

Describe  the  stone  chimeras,  or  gargoyles,  that  guard  the 

tower-tops  of  Notre  Dame 162 

Note  the  rare  beauty  and  design  of  the  tomb  of  Richelieu 

which  is  to  be  found  in  the  old  church  of  Sorbonne.  .    165 

Where  may. be  found  the  masterpiece  of  the  great  sculptor 

Rodin? 168 

Read    Mr.     Holmes'     splendid     encomium    on    the    "Le 

Penseur"    168-169 

Whose  experiments,  discoveries,  and  successes  formed  the 
foundation  upon  which  France  has  erected  her  great 
ceramic  art  industry? 177 

Where  is  the   largest,   richest,  and   most  fascinating  art 

collection  in  the  world? 193 

What  is  the  greatest  treasure  of  the  Louvre,  and  in  what 

island  was  it  discovered? 194 

How  is  Ramses  II  immortalized  in  the  Place  de  la  Con- 
corde ?    202-203 

Read  the  description  and  study  the  illustrations  of  the 
great  monument  raised  in  honor  of  the  "Iron  Chan- 
cellor" of  Germany 245-246 

To  whom  does  Berlin  owe  the  magnificent  array  of  marble 

royalty  that  lines  the  "Sieges  Allee"? 270 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  SIX 


47 


PAGE 

Study  the  magnificent  works  of  art  along  the   "Sieges 

Allee"  which  Mr.  Holmes  so  vividly  pictures 270-273 

Review    the    historical    associations    of    the    "Chariot    of 

Victory"  on  the  Brandenburg  Gate 303 

Note  illustration  of  "the  chariot  that  went  to  Paris — and 

came   back" 304 

Describe  the  statue  of  Frederick  the  Great  which  graces 

the  open  square  of  the  Opera  House  in  Berlin. . .  .310-311 


jll|f»» 

nnn. 


BERLIN 

'A 

SCALE   Or   MILES 


1 — Tiergarten. 

2 — Boulevard    to    Charlottenburg. 

3 — Sieges  Allee. 

4 — Victory   Column. 

5 — Konigs  Platz. 

6 — Brandenburger  Thor. 

7 — Pariser  Platz. 

8 — Potsdamer  Platz. 

Leipziger    Platz. 

Residence    of    Chancellor    of    Ger- 
man  Empire. 

Reichstag   Building. 

Wilhelm   Strasse. . 

Leipziger   Strasse. 

Behren  Strasse. 


0- 
10- 

11- 
12- 

13- 

14- 


15 — Unter  den  Linden. 

16 — River   Spree. 

IT — Friedrich    Strasse. 

18 — University   of  Berlin. 

19 — Palace  of  Emperor  William  I. 

20-    Royal    Opera    House. 

21 — Palace  of  the  Crown  Prince. 

22 — Reichsbank. 

23 — Palace    of   Monbijou. 

24— old   Museum. 

25 — National    Picture    Gallery. 

2G — Lutheran    Cathedral. 

27 — Palace  of  Emperor  William  II. 

28 — Rathhaus   or   City   Hall. 


The  chisel  of  what  famous  sculptor  gave  to  Berlin  this 

statue? 310 

Where  in  Berlin  do  we  find  an  art  temple  in  the  Greek- 
Ionic  style,  enshrining  a  magnificent  collection  of 
original    antiques? 318 

Study  the  splendid  Pergamon  Marbles  adorning  the  recon- 
structed altar  of  Zeus,  as  shown  in  illustrations 323 


48      AROUND  THE  WORLD  WITH   BURTON  HOLMES 
History  and  Government 

PAGE 

The  name  of  what  great  city  is  defined  as  "The  Pool  of 

the  Strong  Place  on  the  Hill"? 10 

How  docs  the  London  Bridge  of  today  differ  from  its  his- 
toric   predecessor? 12 

For  how  long  has  the  history  of  "The  Tower"  been  a  part 

of  the  history  of  London  ? 13 

What  is  the  Tower  of  London? 14 

Who  was  England's  greatest  naval  hero,  and  how  has 

she  paid  homage  to  him? 43 

What  famous  museum  gives  to  the  world  the  opportunity 

of  studying  the  dead  civilizations  of  the  past? 46 

Where  does  the  duly  affixed  and  cancelled  penny  stamp 

legalize  the  receipt? 56-57 

Where  is  "Rotten  Row"  and  from  what  old  French  name 

has  it  been  Anglicized  ? 63 

Where  and  when  was  Queen  Victoria  born  ? 81 

To  whom  is  the  Westminster  Column  a  monument?....     95 

Give  the  names  of  a  few  of  the  illustrious  men  who  are 
buried  beneath  the  marble  pavements  of  Westminster 
Abbey    99 

Why  is  "Big  Ben"  of  London  so  well  beloved? 108 

Give  a  brief  history  of  the  Place  de  la  Bastille,  the  old 

Paris  square,  which  teems  with  historical  associations  127 

What  was  the  first  cry  raised  by  the  French  revolutionary 

mob  of  July,  1789? 129 

The  words  of  what  noted  Frenchman  fired  the  fuse  of  the 

French  Revolution  ? 137 

Why  has  the  Flotel  de  Ville  been  called  the  "Louvre  of 

Robespierre"  ?    140 

Because  of  his  momentary  cowardice  the  guillotine  re- 
ceived what  famous  French  "patriot"? 140 

Who  originated  and  planned  the  "holy  massacre"  of  the 

Huguenots  in    1572? 154 

Recall  -nine  of  the  historical  associations  connected  with 

the  site  of  Notre  Dame 161 

In  what  famous  old  church  did  Bonaparte  crown  himself 

Emperor  of  the  French? 161 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  SIX  49 

PAGE 

Give  the  history  of  the  Palace  of  the  Tuileries  from  the 

time  of  Catherine  de  Medici 195 

To  what  does  the  glorious  Place  de  la  Concorde  owe  its 

name  ?    198 

What  self-designed  memorial  of  an  ancient  King  of  Egypt 
looks  along  the  Champs-Elysees  toward  a  self-com- 
manded memorial  of  a  modern  European  Emperor?  205 

What  is  the  meaning  of  the  inscription  on  the  original 
tomb  of  Napoleon  at  St.  Helena,  and  why  was  the 
name  of  so  great  a  man  omitted  ? 222 

Who  poured  the  treasures  of  the  world  in  the  lap  of  the 

city  he  so  well  loved  ? 224 

How  has  Hamburg  been  modernized  through  her  mis- 
fortunes ? 240 

Who  is  called  the  "Iron  Chancellor"  of  Germany? 245 

How  has  William  II  honored  his  predecessors  from  the 

firbt  Margrave  of  Brandenburg  down  to  William  I?  270 

Recount  some  of  the  laws  which  enable  the  German 
Empire  to  stand  as  the  only  beggarless  great  nation 
in  the  world  ? 275-276 

Give  an  account  of  the  story  of  the  existing  friendship 
between  the  king  who  first  made  Prussia  great,  and 
the  French  philosopher  Voltaire 282 

What  city  of  Germany  has  been  called  "the  cradle  of  the 

Prussian    army"  ? 283 

Where  is  the  exquisite  country  district  of  Germany  called 

the  Spreewald,  or  the  "Forest  of  the  Spree"? 290 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  SEVEN 

"  A  land  rich  in  content,  kindliness  and  peace." 

World  Wonderful 

PAGE 

Why  do  geologists  speak  of  Norway  as  "Nature's  young- 
est child"? 7 

Where  do  we  find  a  snow-field  which  spreads  its  white- 
ness over  one  hundred  and  twenty  square  miles?.  ...     22 

Compare  the  great  waterfall  of  Norway,  the  Voringsfos, 

with  the  Falls  of  the  Yellowstone  of  America 23 

How  have  the  mighty  fjords  been  cut  in  the  mountain- 
mass  of  Norway? 44 

Study    the   panorama   of   the   Naerodal   as   given    in   the 

illustration 50 

Read  Mr.  Holmes'  beautiful  "word  painting"  of  the  trip 

through  the  Geiranger  Fjord 63-64 

What  city  is  called  the  "midnight  sun  metropolis"? 96 

In  what  way  does  the  North  Cape  remind  us  of  a  huge 

wedge  'twixt  the  known  and  the  unknown? 99 

From  what  island  does  man  most  often  see  a  perfect  vision 

of  the  orb  that  hangs  'twixt  night  and  day? 107 

Visit  with  Mr.  Holmes  the  Lyngen  Fjord  and  enjoy  with 
him  the  great  moment  that  marks  the  "end  of  yester- 
day and  the  beginning  of  tomorrow"  in  the  land  of  the 
midnight  sun 108-111 

Describe  how  the  canal  boats  of  Sweden  "go  up  hill"  and 

give  the  tourist  an  "overland"  trip  by  water 126 

Why  is  Stockholm   termed   the   "Venice"  and  again  the 

"Paris"  of  the  north  ? 135-138 

How  is  "the  last-born  daughter  of  the  sea,"  as  Finland 
is  often  called,  being  slowly  lifted  out  of  the  sea's 
embrace  ? 231 

When  the  icy  touch  of  the  arctic  winter  transforms  even 
the  salty  waters  into  a  huge  icy  waste,  how  does  the 
"frozen  desert"  shorten  the  route  from  Finland  to 
Sweden?    232 

50 


OBSERVATIONS  MA  VOLUME  SEVEN 


5i 


1 — Copenhagen. 
2 — Elsinore. 
3 — Frederiksbor 
4 — Vordingborg. 


9 — Aaiinis. 
10 — Randers. 
11 — Aalborg. 


PAGE 

Compare  a  world  trip  from  the  "rising  to  the  setting  sun" 

with  the  trip  from  Gibraltar  north  to  the  North  Cape .   259 

Is  Denmark  literally  an  "island  kingdom"? 265 

What  country  does  Mr.  Holmes  describe  as  "one  vast 
park-like  pasture,  a  rolling  grazing  ground  with  a 
range  of  cows  on  every  ridge"? 331 


52      AROUND  THE  WORLD  WITH   BURTON    HOLMES 

PAGE 

What  jagged  cliffs  are  the  only  famous  scenic  wonders 

of  Denmark  ? 334 

Geographical  Settings 

What  is  the  population  of  Norway  ;  and  what  is  the  annual 

emigration,  chiefly  to  the  United  States? 12 

Why  does  a  bird's-eye  view  of  Bergen  recall  the  old  geo- 
graphical picture  illustrating  the  "physical  features 
of  the  globe"  ? 28 

Give  the  definition  for  the  Scandinavian  word  "fjord," 
and  where  do  we  find  the  most  varied  fjord  of 
Norway  ?   40 

About  how  lung  is  the  Scandinavian  peninsula,  and  what 

is  the  outer  coast-line  of  Norway? 41 

Where  is  the  "northern  balcony  of  Europe"? 101 

What  brief  and  timeless  instant  is  marked  by  the  passing 

of  the  "midnight  sun" ? Ill 

What  river  in  Sweden  furnishes  mure  than  200,000  horse- 
power within  a  space  of  one-third  of  a  mile? 122 

Where  is  Finland,  and  what  does  Mr.  I  lolmcs  say  as  to  its 

inhabitants  ?   225 

Starting  from  Japan,  where  the  kindred  of  the  far  north 

dwell,  what  is  the  most  direct  route  to  Finland?.  . .  .   232 

Give  the  capital  of  Finland  and  its  population 234 

Name  the  foreign  possessions  of  Denmark 265 

What  city  is  the  capital  of  this   island   kingdom  of  the 

north  ?    266 

The  opening  of  what  canal  netted   Denmark  a  lump  sum 

of  twenty  million  dollars? 305 

Manners  and  Customs 

Where  is  the  wealthiest  landlord  only  a  peasant? 13 

D<    cribe    the    Norwegian    cariole,    and    in    what    way    it 

suggests  the  jinrikisha 14-15 

Tn  what  city  in  Norway  do  the  profits  from  the  liquor 
trade  g<  i  t<  i  the  X  a  t  i <  mal  Theater,  M  useums,  Sah  ation 
Army,  Temperance  Societies,  etc.? 33-34 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  SEVEN  53 

PAGE 

How   does   the   Norwegian    farmer   send   his   produce   to 

town  ? 65 

Do  the  hotels  of  Stockholm  and  other  cities  of  Sweden 
and  Norway  compare  favorably  with  those  of  other 
European  countries? 139 

Do  the  women   of  Sweden  affect  the  styles  and  modes 

of  cosmopolitan  Europe? 183 

Where  can  we  find  the  old  Sweden  reproduced  in  eloquent 

reality?    185 

In  what  way  does  the  Swedish  country-side  remind  the 

tourist  of  the  rural  districts  in  the  United  States?.  . .  .    195 

According  to  the  chroniclers,  what  town  in  Sweden  was 
formerly  the  center  of  a  wealth  so  great  that  its  citi- 
zens weighed  their  gold  with  twenty-pound  weights 
and  played  chess  with  jewels? 206 

According  to  superstitious  Gotlanders,  how  is  the  wealth 

of  Visby  to  be  restored? 216 

Where  was  brandy  at  one  time  the  "coin"  of  the  realm?.  .   220 

What  does  Mr.  Holmes  say  of  the  Northmen  as  a  race 

of    men  ? 222 

Where  do  we  rind  women,  instead  of  men,  wielding  the 

broom   of  the   street-sweeper? 235 

Architecture 

Note  the  quaint  architecture  of  the  old  Scandinavian  crea- 
tions, designed  by  the  Norse  artists  in  the  eleventh 
and  twelfth  centuries 15,   18 

The   architecture   of   what  country   has   been   introduced 

and  adopted  in  Sweden  ? 1 19 

In  what  city  is  Nature's  architecture,  in  the  form  of 
primeval  rock,  still  to  be  seen  side  by  side  with  man's 
latest   architectural   creations? 136 

Who  was  the  father  of  Swedish  architecture,  and  was  he 

a  native  of  Sweden? 151 

Describe  the  Swedish  "Royal  Palace"  on  the  Island  of 
Staden,  which  marks  the  site  of  an  ancient  Viking 
stronghold 152 

What  German  architect  is  responsible  for  the  carrying  out 

of  the  plans  of  the  Tsar  for  the  capital  he  created?.  .  .   234 


54      AROUND  THE  WORLD  WITH  BURTON  HOLMES 

PAGE 

Note  in  the  illustration  the  massive  construction  of  the 
memorial  church  in  St.  Petersburg  marking  the  site 
of  the  assassination  of  Alexander  II 239 

Describe  the  odd  towers  of  the  "Bors"  and  the  "Church  of 

our  Redeemer"  in  Copenhagen 282-283 

Who  built  the  regal  Castle  of  Frederiksborg? 302 

From  what  does  the  epoch  known  as  the  Danish  Renais- 
sance   date  ? 302 

How   does    the   interior   of   the    Castle   of   Frederiksborg 

exemplify   artistic    evolution  ? 303 

What  castle  of  Denmark  is  the  Elsinore  of  Shakespeare's 

fancy  ? 306 

Industrial  Life 

Why  were  all  employes  of  the  "llanseatic  League"  re- 
quired to  take  vows  of  celibacy? 30 

What  is  the  meaning  of  the  word  "Hanse,"  and  why  was 

the  llanseatic  league  formed ? 30 

Although    nearly   two-thirds   of   Norway's   area   are   bare 

mountains,  what  is  the  chief  industry  of  the  people?.  .     78 

What  is  the  annual  yield  of  the  "Great   Cod  Catch"  of 

Norway  ? 90 

What  is  the  favorite  occupation  of  the  Lapps? 95 

What  animal  of  the  far  north  proves  of  inestimable  com- 
mercial value  "alive  or  dead"? 95 

What  does  Air.  Holmes  say  of  the  general  attractiveness 

of  the  industrial  establishments  of  Sweden? 181 

How  has  the  old  maritime  law  of  the  wise  mariners  of 

Visby  influenced  the  maritime  traffic  of  today? 208 

What  people  cultivate  every  available  acre  of  their  king- 
dom ? 264 

Where  do  we  find  a  belt  of  gardens  cultivated  by  the  poor 
likened  by  Mr.  Holmes  to  a  "wall  of  goodness  girding 
a  metropolis"? 279-280 

How  <]<>(■<   the   commerce  of  Copenhagen   compare   with 

that  of  other  Danish  p<  >rts? 281 

What  percentage  of  the  area  of  I  Denmark  is  productive?.  .   331 

What  can  be  said  of  the  grain  industry  of  I  Knmark? $33 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  SEVEN  55 

Religion  and  Education 

PAGE 

Does  religion  play  a  very  intimate  and  practical  part  in 

the  life  of  a  citizen  of  Norway? 47 

V  hat  is  the  national  religion  of  Norway,  this  land  of  the 

old  pagan  vikings  and  early  Catholic  Kings? 81 

Since  Gustavus  Adolphus  the  Great,  what  has  been  the 

prevalent  faith  of  the  Swedes? 173 

I  low  do  the  Swedes  regard  "illiteracy"'  and  what  can  be 

said  of  the  educational  facilities  of  Sweden?.  .  .  .  173,  195 
How  did  the  citizens  of  the  old  Swedish  town  of  Visby 

openly  manifest  their  thankfulness  for  well-merited 

prosperity  ?   205 

On  what  island  do  we  find  so  many  churches  that  the 

spires  seem  to  rise  "not  singly  but  in  battalions"?.  .  .  213 
Compare  the  progressive  spirit  of  the  Scandinavian  lands 

with  that  of  Russia 255 

Art  and  Literature 

What  poet,  novelist  and  politician  is  called  the  best  loved 

man   in   Norway  ? 9 

Through  whom  have  "Norwegian  moods  and  life  entered 

every  music-room  in  the  whole  world"? 9 

Give  a  brief  sketch  of  Ole  Bull,  the  Norwegian  master 
of  the  sweetest  instrument  that  ever  spoke  to  human 
ears 37 

How    does    Longfellow    so    fittingly    describe   the    North 

Cape? 100 

What  is  the  foundation  for  the  old  proverb  "When  God 
divided  the  waters  from  the  land  he  forgot  all  about 
Sweden"? 128 

Who  was  the  sculptor  of  one  of  the  most  striking  works 
of  art  in  Sweden,  the  superb  group  in  bronze  illustrat- 
ing a  "belt  duel"? 141 

Note  illustrations  of  Swedish  art  found  in  the  gardens  of 

the  National  Museum  at  Stockholm 143 

In  the  realm  of  poetry  recall  three  of  Sweden's  well  known 

w  Titers 159 

In  the  world  of  music  what  two  Swedish  names  ring  rich 

and  full? " 160 


56      AROUND  THE  WORLD  WITH  BURTON  HOLMES 

PAGE 

Give  the  names  of  several  other  gifts  of  Sweden  to  the 

kingdoms  of  literature  and  science Io0-161 

Give  the  legendary  tale  of  the  founding  of  Gotland,  an 

isle  of  Sweden 210 

What  is  the  derivation  of  the  Finnish  language? 229 

In  what  way  is  the  delightful  "Kalevala,"  the  epic  poem  of 

the  Finns,  like  the  Greek  epics? 244 

In  the  German  translation  of  what  poem  did  Longfellow- 
find  his  "Hiawatha  meter"? 246 

What  does  Mr.  Holmes  say  as  to  the  Art  and  Literature 

of  the  Finns? 24S 

In  what  northern  country  do  we  find  some  of  the  finest 

museums  and  art  galleries  of  the  world? 270 

Note  illustrations  of  some  of  the  Greek  marbles  and 
Roman  portrait-busts  of  the  Jacobsen  collection, 
which  connoisseurs  regard  as  the  most  precious  col- 
lection of  its  kind  in  the  world 274 

Where  is  the  Thorvaldsen  Museum? 290 

Give  briefly  the  career  of  Bertel  Thorvaldsen  and  study 

three  of  his  famous  works  as  illustrated 291 

What  work  of  Thorvaldsen  so  delighted  the  Pope  that  he 
forgot  to  give  the  usual  apostolic  benediction  at 
parting? 292 

Though  Thorvaldsen   was  a  native  of  Denmark,  in   what 

country  do  we  find  the  greatest  product  of  his  genius?  292 

What    famous    Dane    is    world-loved    by   children    for   his 

delightful   fairy  tales? 299 

In  what  magnificent  chateau  is  artistic  Denmark  epito- 
mized ? 301 

Read  Mr.  Holmes'  opinion  of  the  great  hard  who  gave  an 
earthly  immortality  to  the  creatures  of  his  mighty 
brain  by  breathing  in  them  the  breath  i  if  genius 307 

History  and  Government 

Who  was  Harold  the  Fair-Haired? 7 

What  ruling  dynasty  of  Europe  is  the  youngest  of  all 
dynastieSj  but  rules  over  a  kingdom  one  ><i  the  oldest, 
founded  eleven  hundred  vears  aero? 7 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  SEVEN  57 

PAGE 

What  can  be  said  of  Norway  politically,  and  when  was 

the  union  with  Sweden  dissolved  ? 8 

Has  the  franchise  been  extended  to  the  women  of  Nor- 
way ?    13 

In  what  country,  less  than  a  century  ago,  was  the  distil- 
ling of  spirits  a  state  monopoly ;  the  consumption  of 
spirits  encouraged  by  the  state,  which  even  went  so 
far  as  to  prohibit  the  sale  of  tea  and  coffee? 31 

What  is  the  "conciliation  commission"  of  Norway? 48 

Give  the  real  meaning  of  the  appellation  "Vikings"  and 
read  Mr.  Holmes'  interesting  recital  of  the  "Viking 
Age"  91-92 

Who  are  the  "Lapps"  and  where  do  they  dwell? 94 

What  nation  has  never  been  invaded  by  a  foreign  foe,  nor 

had  its  boundaries  altered  by  a  successful  enemy?.  .  .    117 

How  did  the  women  of  Sweden  prove  to  their  King,  more 
than  a  thousand  years  ago  that  they  were  worthy  of 
the   franchise? 118 

What  is  the  Gothenburg  System  for  controlling  the  liquor 

traffic  ?   120 

What  is  the  form  of  national  government  in  Sweden?.  .  .  .    144 

Who  owns  practically  all  the  railways  of  Sweden? 144 

Who  invented  dynamite,  and  of  what  country  was  he  a 

native  ?     161 

Why  did  Alfred  Nobel  dedicate  his  fortune  to  "the 
dreamer,  the  scientific  enthusiast,  who  forgets  every- 
thing in  the  pursuit  of  his  idea"  ? 163 

How  did  Gustavus  Vasa  become  King  of  Sweden,  and 
what  ruler  was  responsible  for  the  cruel  massacre 
so  aptly  termed  the  "Blood  Bath"? 167 

What  island   of  Sweden    was  at  one   time   pawned   to  a 

Jewish  money-lender? 218 

What  town  of  Sweden  has  been  called  "a  quarry,  feeding, 

as  it  were,  on  her  own  vitals"? 221 

What   is   the    standing   of   Scandinavia    in    the   world    of 

progress  ? 223 

How  did  Finland  become  a  Russian  Province? 237 

Is  the  crown  of  Denmark  elective  or  hereditary? 261 


58      AROUND  THE  WORLD  WITH  BURTON  HOLMES 

PAGE 

What  great  ruler  was  called  the  "grandfather  of  Euro- 
pean royalty,"  and  why  ? 262 

In  what  European  country  is  enfranchisement  not  granted 

to  the  male  citizen  until  he  is  thirty  years  old? 263 

The  present  constitution    of    Denmark   dates   from   what 

year  ? 263 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  EIGHT 

"  One   foot  on  the  Pacific's  margin  pressed, 
One  planted  by  the  Baltic's  icy  tide." 

Geographical  Settings 

PAGE 

How  is  Russia  unlike  any  other  land? 6 

Where  and  what  is  the  metropolis  of  Poland? 7 

What  is  the  naval  stronghold  that  guards  the  sea-approach 

to  St.  Petersburg? 13 

What  is  Russia's  chief  ambition? 108 


^-:.v.  V '. 


Compare   the  present  capital  of  Russia   with   its  former 

capital,   Moscow 116 

What  mountain  range  is  the  inter-continental  boundary 

between  Europe  and  Asia? 238 

What  is  the  general  aspect  of  the  country  traversed  by  the 

Trans-Siberian  Railway  ? 265 

Where    and    what    is    the    great    Siberian    metropolis    of 

northern  Asia  ? 273 

How   long  was   Mr.   Holmes  en   route  from   Moscow   to 

Irkutsk,  and  what  is  the  distance? 273 

What   is    Mr.    Holmes'    prophesy   regarding   the   coming 

development  of  the  city  of  Irkutsk? 279-280 


59 


60      AROUND  THE  WORLD  WITH  BURTON  HOLMES 

PACE 

When  was  the  Siberian  city  of  Irkutsk  founded,  and  what 

is  its  principal  industry? 281 

Where  is  the  "Holy  Inland  Sea  of  Baikal,"  and  what  swift 

cold  river  is  there  born  ? 286 

Give  the  altitude,  length  and  breadth  of  the  great  lak? 

of    Mid-Siberia 295 

Where   does   the  Trans-Siberian    Railway   cross   the   old 

caravan  route  to  Peking? 302 

Architecture 

Where  do  we  find  a  church  so  strangely  festive  in  design 

that  one  almost  forgets  the  tragedy  it  commemorate^?     22 

The    bridge    of   the    Hermitage    is    reminiscent    of    what 

famous  arch  of  Venice? 32 

Briefly  describe  the  Winter   Palace,  the  town  abode  of 

the  Russian  Imperial  Court 40 

Of  what  material  is  the  Alexander  Column  in  St.  Peters- 
burg made  and  what  is  its  height? 53 

What  can  be  said  of  the  architecture  of  St.  Isaac's,  which 
is  considered  "one  of  the  wonder  churches  of  the 
world"? 105 

What  great  ruler  of  Russia  worked  with  Ids  own  hands  at 

building  ships  ? 107 

What   were   the   shortest   directions   ever   given   for   the 

building  of  a  railway,  and  by  whom? 117 

Describe  the  "House  of  the  Romanoffs,"  the  only  house 
left  illustrating  how  the  Russian  nobleman  lived  three 
hundred  years  ago 158 

What  church  of  Moscow  is  so  "monstrously"  beautiful 
that  the  Tsar  Ivan  the  Terrible  blinded  the  unhappy 
architect  lest  he  repeat  his  design  ? 163 

What  is  the  Riady  of  Moscow  and  how  does  it  compare 

with  similar  structures  elsewhere  in  Europe? 165 

What  is  the  Kremlin,  and  how  many  gates  give  entrance 

thereto? ' 198,  201 

In  the  construction  of  the  Gate  of  the  Redeemer,  how 
many  years  elapsed,  after  building  of  the  lower  part, 
1  >ef(  ire  the  spire  was  added  ? 201 

How  does  the  average  Russian  city  impress  the  traveler?  279 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  EIGHT  61 

PAGE 

What  does  Mr.  Holmes  say  as  to  the  size  of  the  Orthodox 

Cathedral  of  Irkutsk?     Note  illustration 279 

Describe  the  celebrated  "church  on  wheels"  which  was 

visited  by  Mr.  Holmes 301 

Note  the  interior  of  this  railway  chapel  as  shown  in  color 

plate 225 

Manners  and  Customs 

What  criticism  does  Mr.  Holmes  make  of  the  unjust  pen- 
uriousness  of  the  United  States  in  relation  to  the  sup- 
port of  its  diplomatic  representatives? 15 

In  what  city  is  a  man's  social  position  indicated  by  the 

amount  of  padding  his  coachman  wears? 27 

What  is  the  chief  amusement  afforded  the  peers  of  Russia 

in  the  Royal  Gymnasium  ? 43 

Where  is  there  a  dining  table  so  arranged  that  each  plate 

may  rest  upon  an  individual  dumb-waiter? 45 

What  strong  barrier  surrounds  the  Tsar's  private  palace 
and  protects  the  monarch  of  a  hundred  million  sub- 
jects ? 47 

Note  the  unusual  traffic  rules  and  the  various  methods  of 

public  transportation  on  Russian  streets 56-57 

Why  has  the  Russian  alphabet  been  termed  an  "A  B  C  in 

spasms"  ? 58 

What  identifying  label   is  placed  on   letter  boxes  in  St. 

Petersburg,  and  why  ? 60 

What   is   the    Russian    method   of   house-numbering,    as 

found  in  St.  Petersburg? 60-61 

Where  did  Mr.  Holmes  take  the  picture  of  a  cathedral  at 
half-past  two  in  the  morning,  without  the  aid  of  arti- 
ficial light? 62 

If  in  a  hurry  in  Russia  what  suggestion  of  Mr.  Holmes'  is 

it  wise  to  adopt? 69 

When  admitting  a  stranger  to  the  presence  of  a  prince  of 
Russia,  what  precaution  is  taken  by  the  uniformed 
attendants  ? 76 

Relate  the  pleasing  incident  illustrative  of  Russian  cour- 
tesy as  experienced  by  Mr.  Holmes  while  calling  upon 
a  Prince  of  Russia 80 


62      AROUXD  THE  WORLD  WITH  BURTON  HOLMES 

PAGE 

Review  with  Mr.  Holmes  the  great  military  show  of  Rus- 
sia which  is  held  annually  on  May  first  at  St.  Peters- 
burg .' 83-104 

What  is  the  nationality  of  the  merchants  of  the  clothing 

markets  of  M<  '-cow  ? 127 

In  what  Russian  city  are  the  finest  public  baths  in  the 

w<  >rld  ? 136 

What  is  said  of  the  Russian   police  supervision   of  local 

affairs  ? 140 

What  is  the  Muscovite's  conception  of  perfect  bliss? 143 

I  >escribe  the  characteristic  costume  of  the  Russian  waiter  144 

In  what  famous  convent  of  Moscow  did  Mr.  Holmes  dine, 

and  of  what  did  the  menu  consist? 144-146 

Who  were  the  Boyards,  and  what  were  their  customs  in 

regard  to  the  care  "i  the  women  of  their  households?  158 

From  what  country  did    Moscow  import  the  flowers   for 

her  great  fl< iral  fete? 174 

What  is  the  continental  title  for  a  sleeping-car  company?.   229 

What  does  the  general  appearance  of  the  Russian  villages 
along  the  eastern  route  of  the  Trans-Siberian  Rail- 
way suggest  to  the  traveler  from  foreign  lands? 233 

How  do  the  waiters  on  the  dining  cars  of  the  Trans- 
Siberian  railway  "launder"  the  table  napkins  after 
each  meal  ? 246 

How  is  the  "law  of  the  survival  of  the  fittest"  typified  by 

the  Russian  emigrant  to  Siberia? 254 

How  does  Mr.  Holmes  humorously  describe  the  depart- 
ure announcements  of  trains  from  the  stations  along 
the  Trans-Siberian    Railway? 261 

Why  does  Mr.  Holmes  say  that  the  entire  peasant  popu- 
lation of  Siberia  seem  to  "have  taken  the  veil"? 270 

In  what  way  do  the  wild  type-  of  the  Buriat  tribe  remind 

the  t<  lurist  i  >f  the  American  Indian  ? 305 

Cite  an  example  of  the  official  red-tape  necessary  to  the 

rec<  '\  cry  '  if  baggage  in  Russia  ? ^22 

Religion  and  Art 

1 1'  >w  d(  i  the  Russians  pay  h<  image  as  they  pass  a  temple  i  ii 

the  faith  defended  by  the  Tsar? 14 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  EIGHT  63 

PAGE 

When  and  by  whom  was  the  marvelous  collection  in  the 

Hermitage  museum  begun  ? 37 

Give  a  summary  of  the  wondrous  art  treasures  found  in 

the  Hermitage  galleries 38 

Where  and  what  is  the  most  sacred  spot  of  Petersburg?. .     38 

Note  illustrations  of  the  "Hall  of  Vases";  "Italian  Gal- 
lery" and  sculptored  "Portico"  of  the  famous  Museum 
of  St.   Petersburg 39-41 

What  city  of  Tibet  is  the  stronghold  of  the  Grand  Lama 

of  Buddhism? 81 

Are  the  people  of  Russia  a  devoutly  religious  people?.  .  .    105 

Where  is  the  statue  of  Peter  the  Great  that  reminds  us 
that  his  ambition  always  looked  seaward  for  its  ful- 
fillment ? 108 

What  prominent  building  viewed  from  Sparrow  Hills  has 

been  both  the  home  and  prison  of  royalty? 144 

Contrast  the  cruel  poverty  of  the  devout  and  faithful 
mujiks  who  bring  their  meagre  offerings  to  the  monks 
with  the  great  wealth  of  the  religious  orders  of  Rus- 
sia       149-151 

Note    the    wonderful    icons,     studded     with    pearls     and 

precious  stones,  as  shown  in  illustration 150 

Does  the  Russian  peasant  still  wear  the  manacles  of  ignor- 
ance and  gross  superstition? 151 

Cite  an  incident  illustrative  of  the  religious  fanaticism  of 

these  peasants 152 

What  church  commemorates  the  saving  of  Russia  from 

the  aggressions  of  Napoleon  in  1812 166,  169 

What  is  the  most  sacred  stronghold  of  the  Russian  faith?  191 

Describe  the  famous  icon  which  was  sent  as  a  gift  to  the 

Orthodox  Tsars  of  Moscow  in  1648 192 

How  is  the  religious  fervor  of  the  Russians  exemplified 
in  the  worship  of  the  Iberian  Madonna  as  it  is  driven 
through  the  streets  of  Moscow? 194 

Of  what  great  picture  has  it  been  said  that  its  history 

was  the  history  of  Russia? 197-198 

Which  gate  is  considered  the  most  sacred  portal  of  the 

Kremlin,  and  why? 198 


64      AROUND  THE  WORLD  WITH  BURTON  HOLMES 

PAGE 

How  has  the  Russian  Government  provided  a  place  of 
worship  for  the  railway  employes  and  touring  emi- 
grants in  Siberia  ? 301 

History  and  Government 

How  does  the  word  "prodigious"  so  happily  describe  the 

Russian  ?   6 

In  studying  a  great  nation,  to  what  should  the  traveler 
first  turn  his  attention,  and  because  of  this  fact,  with 
what  city  do  we  begin  our  study  of  Russia? 7 

How  has  Russia  guarded  against  a  possible  Napoleon  of 
the  future  rushing  his  troops  to  St.  Petersburg  by 
rail? 8 

How  docs  the  Government  prevent  the  Russian  from 
reading  censored  articles  that  appear  in  the  imported 
periodicals  ? 18 

In  what  respect  does  the  life  of  Alexander  II  furnish  a 

parallel  to  that  of  Abraham  Lincoln? 23 

Who  waved  his  compelling  wand  of  progress  above  the 
barren  marshes  of  Neva,  and  brought  forth  the  chief 
city  of  the  Muscovite? 38 

Where  are  stored  the  confidential  reports  of  every  Rus- 
sian general  in  every  Russian  campaign  since  Peter's 
time  ? 54 

How  does  the  life  story  of  Prince  Khilkofr  of  Russia  illus- 
trate a  romance  in  modern  achievement? 70 

What  princess  of  Russia  is  the  grand-daughter  of  Amer- 
ica's greatest  military  leader  of  the  nineteenth  cen- 
tury ? 88 

Describe  the  splendid  and  majestic  charge  of  the  cavalry 

in  review  before  the  Tsar  of  Russia 103 

How  did  Peter  the  <  rreal  chi  ><  >se  an  "impi  issible  spot  for  an 
impossible  venture  and  then  compel  impossibility  to 
become   facility"? 109 

Why  is  Moscow  called  the  mother  city  of  the  Russians?  115 

Why  does  the  railway  between  St.  Petersburg  and  Mos- 
cow run  in  an  absolutely  straight  line,  missing  many 
impi  irtant    towns? 117 


OBSERVATIONS  VTA  VOLUME  EIGHT  65 

PAGE 

Where  is  the  largest  foundling  asylum  in  the  world,  and 

how  is  it  supported? 139 

Near  what  city  are  the  "Sparrow  Hills,"  and  what  fam- 
ous general  first  viewed  this  city  from  their  heights?  144 

Who  was  the  founder  of  the  present  dynasty  of  Russian 

Tsars  ?   158 

"Khodynsky   Pole"   near   Moscow   is  the   scene  of  what 

fatal   tragedy? 177 

What  great  champion  of  industrial  emancipation  lived  as 

a  peasant  on  his  estate  near  Moscow? 186 

What  views  of  religion,  government,  and  the  judiciary  did 

Tolstoi  express  in  his  interview  with  Mr.  Holmes?  189-190 

In  what  church  of  Moscow  are  the  Tsars  crowned? 201 

Describe  the  "Tsar  of  the  Cannon"  in  the  Kremlin 203 

What  is  the  weight  of  the  largest  bell  ever  cast  in  the 
world's  history,  and  why  has  it  never  been  hung  or 
its  voice  heard  ? 203-204 

Give  a  brief  resume  of  Russia's  history  as  sketched  by 
Mr.  Holmes,  from  the  evolution  of  the  "Mother  City" 
to  the  reign  of  the  present  dynasty 216-224 

Define  the  Russian  word  "Vladivostok,"  the  name  of  the 

prophetically  christened  harbor-city  of  Siberia 228 

For  what  important  reason  did  Russia  early  recognize  the 
necessity  of  government  ownership  of  the  Trans- 
Siberian  Railway? 229 

How  does  the   Russian  official  regard  the  camera,  even 

along  the  route  of  the  Trans-Siberian? 259 

How  has  the  completion  of  the  Trans-Siberian  Railway 
marked  an  epoch  in  the  history  of  world  transporta- 
tion ? 262 

What  international  agreement  enabled  Russia  to  extend 
her  railway  across  what  is  nominally  a  Chinese  prov- 
ince?    318 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  NINE 

"  Nature  is  a  mutable  cloud  which  is  always 
and   never   the   same." 

World  Wonderful 

PAGE 

What  are  the  '"Burning  Mountains"  of  Russia? 70 

Where  and  what  is  the  most  attractive  and  enterprising 

city  i if  Siberia  ? 71 

Where  did  Mr.  Holmes  witness  a  scene  remarkable  as  an 
illustration  of  the  confusion  of  races  out  of  which 
Russia  is  evolving  her  eastern  empire? 102 

What  eastern  seaport  of  Russia  is  termed  by  Mr.  Holmes 
"the  wonderful  new  city,  with  its  ugly  architecture 
and  its  lovely  situation"? 106 

What  Russian  harbor  is  considered  one  of  the  most  beauti- 
ful in  the  world? 109 

What  Chinese  city  is  considered  one  of  the  ugliest,  and 
at  the  same  time  one  of  the  most  beautiful  cities  in 
the  world? 227 

Where  do  we  find  the  leafy  groves,  lotus  lakes,  islands  and 

parks  of  the  Imperial  City? 232 

How  have  the  landscape  gardeners  of  the  Imperial  City 

beautified   "Imperial   Park"? 258 

What  is  the  color  of  the  lotus  flower  of  China,  and  where 
do  we  find  the  beautiful  "Lake  of  Lotus"  spanned 
by  the  fam<  >us  Marble  Bridge? 25S,  261 

Describe  the  approach  to  the  "Dragon  Throne"  as  we 
enter  the  innermost  enclosure,  called  the  "Forbidden 
City"    268 

Where  in  the  Forbidden  City  do  we  find  the  gardens  and 

temples  <  >f  the  Emper<  >v? 268 

(  Ibserve  the  splendid  panorama  of  the  First  Court  of  the 

Forbidden  City  as  shown  in  illustration 279 

Describe  the  private  gardens  of  the  Emperor  of  China..  295 

In  studying  the  China  of  yesterday  from  the  Mill  of  Ten 
Thousand  Ages,  what  will  the  traveler  realize?.  .   318  320 

66 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  NINE  67 

Geographical  Settings 

PAGE 

What   Cossack  settlement  in  the  heart  of  Siberia  is  the 

starting  point  for  a  trip  "clown  the  Amur"? 5 

The  meeting  of  what  two  rivers  forms  the  Amur? 13 

What  river  of  Siberia  is  termed  "the  great  water-way  to 

the   Pacific"? 33 

How  long  did  it  take  Mr.  Holmes  to  make  the  trip  down 

the  Amur  ? 93 

What  is  the  distance  between  Vladivostok  and  St.  Peters- 
burg?       108 

Give  the  estimated  population  of  the  three  largest  cities 

in   China 137 

How  far  is  it  from  Tien-Tsin  to  Peking,  and  what  was 

formerly  the  mode  of  travel  ? 146 

Where  do  we  find  the  Tartar  City,  or  Manchu  metropolis, 
and  how  is  the  Chinese  city  separated  there- 
from?    232-233 


Manners  and  Customs 

Describe  the  kindly  "camaraderie"  of  the  peasant-folk  of 

Siberia 13 

What   is   the   characteristic   reply  of   the   Russian   to   all 

delays  and  disappointments? 63 

The  people  of  what  nation  are  foremost  in  the  commer- 
cial development  of  Siberia? 72 

On  what  trip  did  Mr.  Holmes  have  to  sleep  on  the  steam- 
er's paddle-box  in  order  to  secure  accommodations?     90 

What  are  the  duties  of  the  lamp-lighters  along  the  Amur?     93 

Emigrants    from    what    nations   are    settling  the    eastern 

empire  of  Russia? 102 

Describe  the  effect  of  the  marching  song  of  the  conquer- 
ing Cossacks    112 

Siberia  is  today  a  colossal  monument  to  what  three  splen- 
did Muscovite  qualities? 112 

Where  do  we  find  millions  of  toilers,  who,  like  ants,  simply 

toil  on  and  on  without  complaint  or  initiative? 135 


68      AROUND  THE  WORLD  WITH  BURTON  HOLMES 

PAGE 

Why  does  the  Chinaman  delight  to  "changee  dolla"  for 

eleven  dimes  ?   152 

What  can  be  said  of  the  enjoyableness  of  a   trip   in  a 

typical  Peking  cart? 155 

In  what  city  are  people  sometimes  drowned  in  the  mud- 
puddles  of  their  streets? 161 

Study  with  Burton  Holmes  the  ever-changing  and  fasci- 
nating street  life  of  Peking 189 

Where  do  we  find  the  proverbial  road  "good  for  ten  years 

and  bad  for  ten  thousand"? 190 


THE  AMUR  RIVER 

0  100         200         300        400 

MILES  ~. 


Describe    a    Chinese    theater,    and    how    the    "Celestial" 

arrays,  or  disarrays  himself  for  attendance 192 

Are  the  funeral  processions  of  the  Oriental   Chinese  as 

somber  as  the  occasion  would  seem  to  demand? 193 

Mention   some  of  the  curious  and   interesting   forms  of 

Chinese    hospitality 195 

Does   a   Chinese   dinner   prove   a   delightful    gastronomic 

inn<  >vati<  in  ? 199 

What  Chinese   Emperor  seemed  to  have  even  a  greater 

passion   than    Louis  the   Sixteenth   for   fantastic   and 

ingenious   time-pieces? 296 

Entering  the  salon  of  the  former  Empress  Dowager  of 

China  do  we  find  the  anticipated  oriental  splendor?.  .   301 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  NINE  69 

Architecture 

PAGE 

What  is  the  Chien-men  ? 162 

Describe  the  "Fu,"  or  palace,  occupied  by  the  American 
Board  of  Foreign  Missions  at  the  time  of  Mr.  Holmes' 
visit    177 

What  is  the  arrangement  of  the  palaces  of  the  Forbidden 

City,  and  how  arc  they  shut  in? 231-232 

Describe  the  walls  around  the  City  of  Peking,  and  the 
arrangement  of  walls  within  walls  in  this  Celestial 
City 232 

How  do  we  reach  the  Imperial  Throne  of  the  Manchus, 
once  one  of  the  world's  mysteries  and  the  central 
object  of  the  Celestial  Capital? 239 

Where  do  we  find  the  most  beautiful  piece  of  architecture 

in  Peking,  and  to  what  religion  was  it  dedicated?.  ...   251 

Looking  at  the  "Forbidden  City"  northward  from  the 
"Coal  Hill"  what  can  be  said  as  to  its  symmetrical 
grouping  ? 265 

Through  how  many  arches  and  gates  does  Mr.  Holmes 
pass  on  his  way  to  the  sacred  palaces  of  the  old 
Emperors  of  China  ? 268-277 

What  can  be  said  as  to  the  general  design  of  the  outer 

gate  as  seen  in  illustration? 273 

What   is   the  material  used   for  roofing  on  all  buildings 

in  the  Forbidden  City? 275 

How  many  thrones  rise  like  ornate  altars  in  the  dimness 
of  three  vast  temple-like  audience  halls  of  the  Imperial 
Palace  ?    284 

Where  is  there  a  throne  "so  delicately  and  so  deeply 
sculptured  that  it  might  almost  be  said  to  be  the 
immaterial  ghost  of  the  rare  wood  from  which  it  was 
evolved  by  some  unknown  chiseler"? 289 

Note  colored  plate  of  "The  Throne  of  Chinese  Majesty".  .   225 

In  visiting  the  "Dragon  Throne"  room  of  China,  what  rare 
and  invaluable  works  of  art  do  we  find  buried  'neath 
the  dust  of  neglect? 289 

Would  one  consider  the  general  plan  and  design  of  the 
private  suites  of  the  Emperor  and  Empress  Dowager 
of  China  conducive  to  much  privacy? 296 


70      A  ROUND  THE  WORLD  WITH  BURTON  HOLMES 


i ir— irrn 


SIEpDQ 


□ 


1  lift 


rsssisfiB 


PEKING. 


i      ii. ill   of  the  Classics. 
•_■     Temple   of   Confucius. 
::     Lama  Temple. 
i     The  Pei-Tang. 

5  Marble   Bridge. 

6  Lake  of   Lotus. 

7  inn  of  Coal. 

8 — Mohammedan   Mosque. 
9 — British    Legation. 


10 — American  Legation. 
i  i     <  (erman    Legal  Ion. 
12 — Japanese  Legation. 
13     French   Legation. 
i  i      Italian   Legation. 

15  Examination   Hall. 

1 6  < ' 1 1  i »■  1 1  men. 

l  7     Temple  of  Agriculture. 
18 — Temple  of  Heaven. 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  NINE  71 

PAGE 

Study  details  of  illustration  so  beautifully  visualizing 
the  "Pailow"  or  entrance  to  the  Summer  Palace  of 
the  Emperor  of  China 309 

What  does  Mr.   Holmes  say  of  the  wondrously  strange 

charm  of  the  Summer  Palace  of  the  Celestial  Ruler?  313 

In  what  way  can  we  compare  the  Hill  of  Ten  Thousand 

Ages  with  the  Palatine  at  Rome? 316 

Where  do  we  find  what  Burton  Holmes  terms  one  of  the 

"perfect"  architectural  creations  of  China? 330 

How  does  the  Marble  Bridge  of  the  Summer  Palace  com- 
pare as  a  work  of  art  with  the  Taj  Mahal  and  the 
Parthenon  ? 330 

Education  and  Religion 

Just  after  the  Boxer  rebellion,  how  do  we  find  the  "Temple 

of  Heaven"  defiled  by  commerce  ? 153 

Describe    the    Buddhism    of    the    Celestial    Empire,    and 

the  Lamas  or  "holy  men"  of  the  Confucian  faith 184 

What  venerable  Catholic  Bishop  held  at  bay  the  hostile 
population  of  Peking  for  two  months  during  the 
Boxer    rebellion  ? 219 

What  is  the  most  sacred  altar  in  all  China  ? 245 

Note  the  beautiful  illustrations  of  this  altar  as  well  as 

the  construction  of  the  Temple 246-247 

What  Chinese  temple  marks  the  Center  of  the  World?.  .  .  .   248 

Describe  the  exquisite  beauty  of  the  interior  of  the  "Tem- 
ple of  Heaven" 252 

For  what  purpose,  other  than  artistic  pictorial  treatment, 
are  the  huge  marble  slabs  found  in  the  center  of  the 
stairways  to  the  Temple  of  Heaven? 252 

How    has    nature    joined    with    man    in    beautifying   the 

entrance  to  this  most  wonderful  Temple? 253 

What  ceremony  sacred  to  the  Imperial  Son  of  Heaven  was 
annually  enacted  within  the  Temple  of  Agriculture 
in  Peking? 255 

How  do  the  superstitious  Chinese  endeavor  to  propitiate 
the  wind  and  water  spirits  that,  according  to  their 
belief,  bless  or  curse  the  neighborhood? 324 


72      AROUND  THE  WORLD  WITH  BURTON  HOLMES 

PAGE 

What  has  become  of  the  great  bronze  Buddha  which 
formerly  sat  in  stale  in  the  gorgeous  Porcelain 
Temple,  on  the  summit  of  the  Ilill  of  Ten  Thousand 
Ages  ?    325 

History  and  Government 

How  has  Russia  removed  the  stigma  from  Siberia? 75-76 

Where  and  by  whom  were  three  thousand  Chinese  driven 
into  a  river  too  deep  for  wading  and  too  swift  for 
swimming  ? 77 

How  is  the  colonization  of  Siberia  managed  by  the  Rus- 
sians ?     101 

What  does  Burton  Holmes  say  of  Peking  in  1901  and 
the  entrance  and  retirement  of  Christendom  at  the 
time  of  the  Boxer  Rebellion? 115-117 

What  commodity  is  received  in  such  large  quantities  by 
the  Chinese  government  as  tribute  that  it  looks  like 
a  low  range  of  mountains  ascending  from  the  river 
bank? 141 

During  the  siege  of  Tien-Tsin,  how  did  a  vague  command 
to  "Advance  left  or  right,  it  makes  no  difference; 
but  hurry"  result  in  the  decimation  of  the  Ninth 
American    Infantry? 145 

Where  do  we  find  the  oldest  newspaper  in  the  world?.  .  .   202 

How  has  the  Chinese  Government  marked  the  site  of  the 

assassination  of  the  ( ierman   Minister  in  1900? 223 

Where  do  we  find  the  anomaly  of  "a  present  that  is  in 
reality  the  past,  and  of  a  past  that  still  remains  the 
present"?    257 

Where  is  located  the  "llill  o|"  Coal"  which,  according  to 
tradition,  was  accumulated  by  the  Emperors  of  old  in 
preparatii  in  f<  ir  a  siege? 262 

How  were  the  gates  to  the  Imperial  City  formerly 
guarded,  and  whom  do  we  find  in  command  at  the 
time  of  Mr.   Holmes'  visit? 265,  267 

What  woman,  once  ruler  of  a  nation  that  doggedly  be- 
lieves women  have  no  souls,  proved  herself  stronger 
and  greater  than  any  man  in  her  country? 302 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  XIXE  73 

PAGE 

In  what  historic  army  ambulance  once  in  service  in  the 
Philippines,  does  Air.  Holmes  take  his  trip  to  the 
summer  palace  of  the  celestial  ruler? 309 

Tell  the  history  of  the  curious  imperial  barge  of  marble, 
and  how  does  it  demonstrate  that  "bribery"  is  of  the 
past  as  well  as  the  present? 315 

How  have  the  art-loving  sons  of  Italy,  who  guarded  some 
of  the  sacred  and  beautiful  wonders  of  China,  wreaked 
their  vengeance  for  the  deeds  of  Attila  and  his  bar- 
barians ? 325 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  TEN 

"  IIuw  happy  is  the  nation  whoso  people 
can  find  a  satisfying  pleasure  in  the  mere 
contemplation  of  the  things  that  Nature 
freely   sets   before   them." 

World  Wonderful 

PACK 

A  visit  to  what  capital  is  considered  by  Mr.  Holmes  "one 

i  'i"  the  chi  licest  tidbits  i  »n  the  menu  <  »f  m<  idem  travel"  ?       5 

Where  is  the  country  known  as  "Cho-Sen,"  or  the  land  of 

the  morning"  freshness? 5,  77 

Why  does   Mr.    Holmes   call   the  approach   to  the   chief 

port  of  Korea  "an  enchanted  archipelago"? 10 

Where  is  the  mysterious  and  beautiful  forest  aisle,  twenty 

miles  in  length,  leading  to  the  Mecca  of  Japan? 136 

Read  Mr.  Holmes'  beautiful  tribute  to  nature  in  his  de- 
scription of  the  view  of  Nikko  from  the  mausoleum  on 
the  mountain-top 160 

Visit  with  Mr.  Holmes  the  finest  waterfall  in  all  Japan, 
a  mighty  crystal  column  more  than  three  hundred 
feet  in  height 166 

When  is  the  cherry-blossom   season  of  Japan,  and  what 

can  be  said  as  to  the  fruit  of  the  Japanese  cherry-tree?  245 

When  do  the  iris  flowers  o\  Japan  spread  out  their  rain- 
bow hues  on  the  green  carpets  of  the  gardens,  and 
the  wistaria  trellises  envelope  the  dainty  tea-houses 
in  a  purple  haze? 247 

What  is  the  national  flower  of  Japan,  and  cite  an  example 

of  its  wonderful  growth? 248 

Where  is  the  "Emerald  Isle  of  the  Orient"  and  why  is  it 
so  called? 281 

Why  is  the  word  "Fairyland"  so  descriptive  of  Japan?...  285 

Though  from  a  distance  Fuji  san  even  in  wintry  aspect 
may  seem  a  beautiful  "illusion  built  of  violet  mist 
and  decked  with  slender  drifts  of  cloud,"  of  what  is  it 
really  composed? 309 

74 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  TEN 


75 


PAGE 

Where  could  you  visit  with  Air.  Holmes  a  glorious  out-of- 
door  cathedral,  with  "pinnacles  of  rock  for  spires, 
maple-decked  valleys  for  aisles  and  chapels,  great 
trees  for  pillars,  and  the  eternal  vault  of  blue  for  its 
dome"  ?    333 


KOREA 

50  100  150         200 


C'tiT/ 


C         k      O    $  &  -      l( 
H  ^*    _^    £    *y 


PACIFIC 

OCJEAN 

- ; H_ 


Geographical  Settings 

What  is  the  usual  approach  to  Korea  ? 

How  long  is  the  voyage  from  the  Japanese  port  of  Naga- 
saki to  Korea  ? 

Leaving  Taku,  Peking's  port,  how  do  we  reach  Korea?.  .  . 


76      AROUND  THE  WORLD  WITH  BURTON  HOLMES 

PAGE 

What  is  the  chief  port  of  Korea?  Describe  the  pictur- 
esque approach  thereto 10 

What  is  the  population  of  Korea,  and  what  can  be  said 

of  the  fertility  of  its  soil? 11 

Where  and  what  is  the  most  important  port  of  the  Mika- 
do's Empire  ? 128 

What  is  the  capital  of  Japan  and  how  great  is  its  popu- 
lation ?   228 

Japan  has  had  how   many  capitals,  and  what  has  become 

of  these  imperial  cities? 286 

Give  the  height  of  the  sacred  mountain  of  Japan 306 

Describe  the  famous  inland  sea  ^i  Japan 328 

Architecture 

What  is  considered  the  great  sight  oi  Seoul,  and  of  what 

is  it  a  modest  replica  ? 35 

What  is  left  of  the  old  arch  where  the  Korean  King  was 
wont  to  receive  the  emissaries  of  the  Emperor  of 
China,  and  what  is  the  inscription  on  the  new  arch?.  .      78 

Why   does    the    Korean    home    remind    the    t<>nrist    ci   a 

"magic   cabinet"? S3 

How  many  buildings  of  inestimable  richness  comprise  the 

mausolem  of  Japan's  greatest  ruler? 142 

From  the  standpoint  of  architectural  beauty  compare  a 
royal  Japanese  man-oleum  with  the  various  styles  ^\ 
architecture  common  to  occidental  countries,  as  de- 
scribed by  Mr.  Holmes 145 

Note  the  simplicity  and  fragile  character  of  a  Japanese 

dwelling     ....' 194 

Describe  the  excpiisite  gem  of  the  architecture  ^i  another 
age  found  in  the  gate  of  llarnna 

Has    foreign   architecture   gained   much   oi  a    foothold   in 

Japan  ? 267 

ribe  the  walls  surrounding  the  court  <<i  his  majesty, 

the  Japanese   Emperor 269 

ribe  the  interior  k\  a  Japanese  theater 2S0 

What    is   the   most    impressive,   awe-inspiring   monument 

in  all   Japan  ? 286 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  TEN  yj 

PAGE 

What  "mountain  of  magnificent  carpentry,"  costing  eight 
million  dollars,  has  been  paid  for  by  the  coppers  of 
the   poor? 321 

Manners  and  Customs 

How  long  have  the  dress,  architecture  and  language  of 

Japan  prevailed  in  Korea  ? 7 

Describe  the  costume  of  the  Korean  women,  and  relate  the 
"legend"  of  the  green  coats  so  often  worn  over 
their  heads 22 

How  does  the  Korean  woman  utilize  the  hair  of  her  ances- 
tors for  her  own  glorification  ? 23 

The  people  of  what  nation  use  a  finger  for  a  tooth-brush 

and  salt  for  dentifrice  ? 28 

How  does  the  Korean  wife  launder  the  delicate  tulle-like 
fabric  affected  by  the  gentlemen  of  fashion,  so  that 
it  has  the  much-prized  peculiar  luster? 31 

"'A  national   top-knot,"  the  tuft  of  hair  on  every  man's 

head,  bore  what  special  significance  in  Korea? 43 

Where  were  women  not  allowed  on  the  streets  by  day, 
and  the  men  compelled  to  remain  indoors  after 
8  P.  M.? 58 

Why  are  the  tracks  of  the  street  railway  in  Korea  used 
for  beds  to  the  great  annoyance  of  the  street  car 
authorities  ?    59 

Describe  the  peculiar  mourning  costume  a  Korean  must 

wear  for  three  years  after  the  death  of  his  father 67 

Why  did  a  former  king  of  Korea  make  the  shape  of  a 

man's  hat  a  protection  to  the  State? 68 

Describe  the  Korean  hat  which,  as  a  matter  of  courtesy, 

is  Avorn  indoors  and  out 70 

Where  is  a  professed  bachelor  not  regarded  as  a  man, 

though  he  live  a  hundred  years? 73 

Where  is  all  water  regarded  as  pure? 83 

Is   tea-drinking  as   common    in   Korea   as    in   Japan    and 

China? 85 

Describe   the    "jinrikisha,"   the   universal   conveyance   of 

Japan   127 


78      AROUND  THE  WORLD  WITH  BURTON  HOLMES 

PAGE 

Where  are  the  women  prouder  of  their  age  as  the  years 

increase  in  number? 135 

What  interesting  custom  of  service  to  guests  i  if  the  native 
inns  of  Japan  delights  and  rests  tlie  tired  and  foot- 
sore   traveler? 169 

Compare  the  habitual  cleanliness  of  the  Japanese  people 

with  that  of  other  Oriental  races 170 

Why  cannot  the  occidental  traveler  1  e  reconciled  to  the 

native  Japanese  bath  ? 171 

At  Ikao  (Japan)  what  conveniences  are  offered  the  resi- 
dents in  the  way  of  hot  and  cold  water  systems? 193 

What  is  Mr.  Holmes'  humorous  impression  of  the  manner 

of  awakening  the  guest  at  a  native  inn  ? 197 

How  often  do  the  Japanese  women  build  up  their  wonder- 
ful coiffure  and  how  is  it  preserved  intact  during  the 
night?    208 

Describe  the  Japanese  "basha."     How  does  it  compare 

with  the  jinrikisha  as  a  method  for  travel? 210-211 

Why  are  flexible  boats  necessary  in  some  parts  of  Japan?  218 

According  to  Mr.  Holmes,  what  is  the  tourist's  first  im- 
pression upon  entering  the  home  of  a  Japanese? 241 

(  >f  what  docs  the  furniture  of  a  Japanese  home  consist?.  .   242 

Describe  the  convincingly  amiable  geisha  girl  of  Japan . 257-258 

From   what  is  the  "sake"  of  Japan  distilled,  and  how  is 

it    served? 260,  263 

the  artistic  grace  of  the  geisha  dancers  as  described 
and  illustrated 264-265 

What  is  the  first  law  of  Japanese  etiquette? 268 

ribe  the  "hara  kiri"  which  in  old  Japan  was  the  only 
honorable  death  for  a  man  in  disgrace 277 

I  low  do  the  actors  on  a  Japanese  stage  make  their  appear- 
ance, and  how  are  the  scenes  shifted? 278 

How  long  does  a  Japanese  play  usually  last,  and  in  what 

way  is  the  patron  supplied  with  something  to  eat?..   2S0 

In  what  lies  the  great  charm  i  if  Japan  ? 308 

Industrial  Life 

Who  are  the  "gigi  boys"  i<i  Korea,  and  how  do  they  carry 

their  burden-  ? 13 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  TEN  79 

PAGE 

What  great  American  naval  commander  first  opened  the 
ports  of  Japan  to  the  world,  thus  making'  possible 
the  entry  of  occidental  progress? 120 

Cite  an  example  of  Japanese  inconsistency  in  their  classi- 
fication of  foreign-made  goods  in  the  retail  shops.  ...    132 

Visit  with  Mr.  Holmes  the  Tea  House  of  the  Hundred 

Steps    130-135 

Is  shoemaking  in  Japan  a  profitable  industry? 185 

What  industry  of  Japan  is  carried  on  by  the  good  house- 
wives ?   204 

Of  what  does  the  machinery  of  the  tiny  rice  mills  of  Japan 

consist  ?   207 

What  does  Mr.  Holmes  say  as  to  the  marvelous  endur- 
ance of  the  Japanese  rikisha  coolies? 212 

What  is  the  secret  of  the  charm  of  "things  Japanese"?. . .  252 

Japanese  competition  in  the  markets  is  feared  by  Occi- 
dental manufacturers  because  of  what  element  in  Jap- 
anese  life  ? 252 

Are  the  Japanese  a  thrifty  people  ? 296 

How  is  rice  threshed  in  Japan,  and  is  the  labor  done  by 

the  men  or  women  ? 297 

Give  some  idea  of  the  growth  of  the  bamboo,  and  what 

are  a  few  of  the  varied  uses  of  this  graceful  tree?.  .  .   319 

Education  and  Religion 

Give  the  correct  pronunciation  of  the  capital  of  Korea.  . .      16 

Porcelain  figures  of  animals  and  demons  were  placed  on 
the  structures  of  Korea  for  what  superstitious  pur- 
pose?         37 

Missionaries   of  what   Christian  denomination   were  first 

to  establish  churches  in  Korea  ? 57 

What  practical  and  really  beneficial  suggestion  does  Air. 
Holmes  make  concerning  the  establishment  of  a  bio- 
graphical library  maintained  solely  for  the  preserva- 
tion of  cinematograph  films? 6-4 

What  would  the  benefits  of  this  library  be  from  an  edu- 
cational   standpoint  ? 64 


8o      AROUND  THE  WORLD  WITH  BURTON  HOLMES 

PAGE 

Why  was  a  ban  placed  upon  Buddhism  in  Korea? 89 

How  did  Confucianism  lose  its  hold  on  the  land  of  "Cho- 
Sen"? 91 

Has  Korea  a  national  religion? 91 

In  what  way  has  Korea  become  a  prey  to  superstitious 

beliefs  ?    92 

Where   was  a  tomb  built  at  a  cost  of  seventy  thousand 

dollars  for  the  little  finger  of  a  murdered  queen? 94 

How  is  the  original  religion  of  Japan  now  being  revived 
after  once  having  been  usurped  by  the  spread  of 
Buddhism? 140,  198 

To  what  old  faith  is  the  origin  of  the  artistic  Japanese  torii 

due?   140 

How  has  Shintoism  replaced  Buddhism  in  many  sec- 
tions of  Japan  ? 140-141 

In  what  peculiar  manner  was  the  Japanese  petitioner 
immediately  satisfied  that  his  prayer  to  a  Buddhist 
god  would  be  granted  ? 142 

Where  was  a  small  defect  purposely  carved  on  a  pillar 

of  a  gate  in  order  to  turn  aside  the  wrath  of  the  gods?   151 

What  matchless  cone,  snow-draped  and  spotless,  is  the 

sacred  mountain  of  Japan ? 174 

To  what  does  the  Shinto  cult  trace  its  origin? 199 

Repeat  the  only  formula  of  the  Shinto  faith 201 

What  simple  method  of  attracting  the  attention  of  a 
Shinto  deity  to  one's  prayer  is  thought  fully  adequate 
and  effective  by  the  Japanese  worshipper? 202 

Of  what  great  religion  is  the  image  of  "Dai  Butsu"  sym- 
bolic, and  how  many  people  may  kneel  in  prayer 
within  this  image? 289 

Why  is  church-going  in  Japan  so  often  very  fatiguing?.  .  .    301 

When  and  for  what  purpose  is  an  annual  pilgrimage  made 
to    Fuji-san  ? 309 

Where  and  what  is  the  "Holy  City"  of  Japan,  and  how- 
are  the  hills  surrounding  it  made  a  sort  oi  sacred 
rampart?  314 

Give  the  legend  of  the  origin  ^i  the  tea-plant  as  related  by 

a  Buddhist  priest 319 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  TEX  81 

PAGE 

Where  with  three  thousand  half-deserted  temples  do  we 
find  the  peasant  people  erecting  larger  and  more 
expensive  places  of  worship  ? 320 

To  what  faith  did  the  peasant  women  of  Japan  sacrifice 

their  jet  black  tresses,  and  how  were  they  used?.  . . .   321 

Visit  Avith  Mr.  Holmes  the  famous  Temple  of  the  Thirty- 
three  Thousand  Gods 322 

Where  is  there  an  island  formerly  held  so  sacred  that 
neither  births  nor  deaths  were  permitted  to  occur 
upon    it  ? 330 

Art  and  Literature 

According  to  Japanese  mythology,  what  is  the  origin  of 
man  and  the  creation  of  "Dai  Nippon,"  or  Great 
Japan  ?   116 

What  heavenly  body  is  the  daughter  of  Japan's  "Adam 
and  Eve,"  according  to  the  legendary  history  of  the 
Land  of  the  Rising  Sun? 117 

What  are  the  two  colors  used  in  decorating  the  graceful 

Japanese  arch  known  as  a  torii  ? 138 

Where  for  many  years  was  the  repository  of  the  artistic 

riches  of  Japan  ? 147 

The  Japanese   Buddhist   scriptures  comprise  how   many 

volumes  ? 148 

How  may  the  "arduous  literary  labor"  of  digesting  these 
scriptures  be  accomplished  in  less  than  a  minute  and 
a  half? 148 

With  what  patient  and  skillful  work  did  the  old  sculptors 

of  Japanese  Buddhist  gods  carve  these  hideous  idols?  150 

What  supervision  did  the  artist  feel  was  over  him  during 

this  creative  work? 150 

Where  do  we  find  art-treasures  most  exquisite  and  fragile, 
preserved  for  hundreds  of  years  because  of  the  peo- 
ple's reverence  and  love  for  the  beautiful? 151 

What  oddity  of  a  national  language  is  found  in  the  pious 
admonition  of  the  central  figure  of  the  three  famous 
sacred  sculptored  monkeys  of  Japan? 259 


82      AROUND  THE  WORLD  WITH  BURTON  HOLMES 

PAGE 

Is  the  melody  of  Japanese  song  harmonious  to  western 

ears  ?    264 

How  has  a  Japanese  school-boy  aptly  word-pictured  the 

symbolic  flower  of  the  Buddhist  faith? 289 

History  and  Government 

Why  has  Japan  desired  control  of  the  Korean  peninsula 

when  it  is  properly  a  part  of  the  Asiatic  mainland?.  .  .    7-S 

For  what  purpose  was  the  hell  of  "Chong-No"  of  Korea 

i(  irmerly   used  ? 32 

How   was    Korea   made   a    vassal   country    to   two   rival 

powers  at  the  same  time? 38 

How  did  Japan  awaken  the  Hermit  Nation,  and  what  were 

some  of  the  reforms  introduced? 42-43 

Where  was  the  cutting  oft  of  "topknots"  by  a  victorious 
government  avenged  by  the  cutting  off  of  food  sup- 
plies ?   44 

What  "stain  upon  the  honor  of  Japan"  mars  the  record  of 

progress  and  reform  in  Korea? 48 

To  what  circumstance  is  due  the  fact  that  the  streets  of 
Seoul  are  now  in  better  condition  than  those  of  any 
native  city  in  the  (  )rient? 66 

What  four  elements  have  been  at  work  shaping  the  future 

of  the  Hermit  Kingdom  ? 1 10-112 

How  many  centuries  of  an  unbroken  succession  can  the 

present   Emper<  >r  of  Japan  bi  >ast  ? 118 

Who  was  the  first  Emperor  of  Japan,  and  how  many  hun- 
dred years  before  Christ  did  he  reign? 118 

What  dot's  Mr.  Holmes  say  concerning  ancient  and  pres- 
ent civilizati"  in  i  »i'  Japan  ? 1 19 

Who   were   the    Shoguns   of  Japan,   and    how    great    was 

their    power? 120 

What  great  feudal  chief  and  power  behind  the  throne 
of  the  Mikados  founded  the  present  city  of 
Tokyo?    '.  .152-153 

Iiow  was  a  state  of  strong  feudalism  maintained  in  Japan 
previous  to  Commodore  Perry's  imperious  summons 
in  1853? '. 154-155 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  TEX  83 

PAGE 

Why  are   the   birthdays   of  all  Japan   celebrated   on   the 

same  day  of  the  year? 210 

Relate  the  famous  dramatized  story  of  "The  Forty-seven 
Ronin"  who  died  because  their  master's  name  and 
honor  were  to  them  the  most  sacred  things  on  earth  274 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  ELEVEN 

"  Twixt    islo   and   isle,   twixt   sky   and   sea.:' 


World  Wonderful 


PAGE 


Give  Mr.  Holmes'  first  impression  of  the  gorgeous  Poin- 
ciana  Regia — the  flowering  tree  that  beautifies  the 
residential  streets  of  Honolulu 14 

Note  how  delightfully  Burton  Holmes  compares  Hawaii 
to  "a  delicate  and  unprotected  piece  of  pottery  sent 
by  its  guardians  to  a  certain  Uncle  Sam,  who  has  a 
passion  for  insular  ceramics" 52 


Describe  the  coral-belt,  and  the  deadly  coral  reef  of  the 

Pearl  Lochs  of  1  tawaii 68 

Where  do  we  find  the  largest  volcanic  crater  in  the  world?     74 

Describe  the  dead  crater  of  I  faleakala,  "The  Palace  of  the 

Sun" 74 

Note  the  three  splendid    illustrations  of  this   wonderful 

phenomenon  of  nature 75.  7t<.  79 

84 


OBSERVATIONS  ATA  VOLUME  ELEVEN  85 

PAGE 

Standing  at  the  edge  of  the  extinct  volcano  Haleakala, 
10,000  ft.  above  the  level  of  the  ocean,  what  two 
famous  volcanoes  are  discerned  in  the  distance,  the 
craters  of  which  rise  4000  ft.  higher  into  the  "heavenly 
seas"? 77 

How  do  the  "eternal  snows"  of  Manna  Kea  pay  tribute 
to  the  lovely  lowlands  of  Hawaii,  where  "eternal 
summers"    dwell  ? 82-83 

What  Hawaiian  volcano,  whose  crater  is  six  miles  in  cir- 
cumference, is  fourteen  thousand  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea,  sixty  miles  in  diameter,  and  two  hundred 
miles  around  its  base? 88 

Coming  down  the  volcano  from  "Kilauea"  how  has  Burton 
Holmes  described  "Nature's  Fernery"?  Note  illus- 
tration        96 

What  tall  tree  of  Hawaii  is  so  beautifully  entwined  from 

root  to  very  tip  with  the  "ieie"? 104 

Read  Mr.  Holmes'  beautiful  description  of  the  sunset  at 

Hilo  on  the  island  of  Hawaii Ill 

Of  what  other  English  stronghold  does  the  "Peak"  remind 

the  tourist  as  his  ship  enters  the  harbor  at  Victoria?  126 

Describe  the  Praya  of  Victoria  on  the  island  of  Hongkong  130 

Geographical  Settings 

What  is  the  distance  from  San  Francisco  to  the  palm- 
fringed  shores  of  Hawaii  ? 5 

Where  do  we  find  the  sole  safe  harbor  of  Hawaii,  and  in 
what  way  is  it  so  perfectly  adapted  to  the  needs  of  a 
modern  naval  power? 67 

What  theory  has  been  advanced  of  the  formation  of  the 

island  of  Hawaii? 103 

What  city  is  termed  the  commercial  gateway  to  South 

China?   116 

What  two  ocean  pathways  lead  across  the  Pacific  to  the 

Philippines  and   China? 119 

Compare  the  population  of  the  province  of  Kuangtung, 

China,  with  the  state  of  Kansas 126 

How  does  the  temperature  of  the  "Peak"  of  Hongkong 

compare  with  that  of  the  lower  town  ? 158 


86      AROUND  THE  WORLD  WITH  BURTON  HOLMES 


PAGE 

What  is  the  population  of  1  [ongkong? 159 

What  city  on  the  edge  of  China  is  the  third  seaport  of  the 

world  ?   160 

How  do  we  reach  Canti  in  fr<  >m  1  [<  >ngki  ing? 165 

Where  can  he  seen  the  first  and  for  many  years  the  only 

lighthouse  on  the  Chinese  coast? 165 

Where  and  what  is  the  Shameen,  in  China? 1/7 

Is  Canton  on  land  or 
water,  and  what  is 
its  population?.  . .  .  197 
1 1<  iw  long  does  it  take 
tn  cmss  the  China 
Sea  fr<  >m  Hongkong 
to   Manila0 228 

Manners    and    Customs 

Y\  here  do  we  find  an 
"ever-present"  gar- 
land of  flowers 
characteristic  of  the 

native  dress? 10 

In  what  way  did  the 
holoku,  or  Mother 
Hubbard,  become 
the  universal  dress 
of      the      1  lawaiian 

W(  mien  ? 11 

The  root  of  what  plant  forms  the  staple  article  of  food  for 

the  native  p<  tpulation  of  J  lawaii  ? 42 

How   do   the    llawaiians   prepare   the   "poi,"   the    favorite 

dish  of  the  natives  of  these  islands? 45 

Describe  the  "lanai"  of  the  I  lawaiian  residence 53 

Following  the  old  adage  that  "fingers  were  made  before 
forks'    how   does   the   average   American    enjoy    the 

native  Hawaiian   feast? 54 

Take  a   fishing  trip  with    Burton   Holmes   to  the  shark- 
infested  water-  of  Pearl  Harbor 67 

What  is  the  meaning  of  the  Hawaiian  "tabu"? 80 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  ELEVEN  87 

PAGE 

Tell  of  some  of  the  prohibitions,  or  "tabus"  placed  upon 
the  Hawaiians  by  the  chiefs  and  priests  of  pagan 
days    80 

What  was  the  penalty  for  breaking  the  "tabus"? 81 

Give  Mark  Twain's  recipe  for  securing  a  night's  rest  in 

the  mosquito-infested  regions 98 

Why  does  Mr.  Holmes  term  China  a  colossal  puzzle?.  ...    115 

Compare  the  construction  of  the  ofhce  buildings  of  Hong- 
kong with  the  "skeletons  of  steel"  of  the  United 
States 130 

From   what   nation    has    England    selected   the   police   of 

Vict.  >ria  ? 137 

In  the  language  of  the  East  what  is  the  term  for  the  mid- 
day meal  ? 153 

Before  the  advent  of  the  electric  fan  how  did  the  Chinese 

keep  the  dining-rooms  cool  and  restful? 153 

By  what  novel  conveyance  does  the  tourist  explore  the 

island  of  Hongkong? 156 

How  does  Mr.  Holmes  describe  the  streets  of  Canton?  182,  186 

Do  the   names  and   appearance   of   Canton   streets   seem 

paradoxical  to  the  tourist? 188 

How   does   the   Chinese   clock   differ   from   the   imported 

article  ?    193 

Into  what  time  units  is  the  Chinese  day  divided? 193 

What  is  the  monetary  unit  of  China? 196 

Describe  a  Chinese  dinner  party 201 

What  are  some  of  the  necessary  and  costly  Chinese  cere- 
monials attendant  upon  the  death  of  a  parent? 207 

In  what  country  is  the  generation  of  today  chained  to  the 

generations  of  the  past,  and  how? 214 

Why  does   Mr.   Holmes  speak  of  the   Filipino  bed   as  a 

"sleeping   machine"  ? 249 

What   is   the   Filipino   method   of   polishing  a   hardwood 

floor? 267 

Describe  a  typical  Filipino  house? .    317 

Industrial  Life 
What  does  Burton  Holmes  say  of  the  business  world  of 

Honolulu  ?    29 


38      AROUND  THE  WORLD  WITH  BURTON  HOLMES 

PAGE 

What  people  are  cultivating  the  fertile  regions  of  Hawaii, 
and  thus  wresting  from  the  native  the  heritage  of  the 
soil  ?   47 

What  is  the  most  important  industry  of  1  lawaii? 87 

What  is  the  chief  product  of  the  valleys  of  1  lawaii? 103 

Ascending  the  mountain  sides  name  the  various  industries 

that  yield  so  bountifully  to  the  planter 103 

Visit  a  typical  coffee  plantation  in  the  Puna  District  of 

Hawaii    108 

How  many  years  before  the  coffee-planter  can  expect  to 

realize  on  his  investment? 109 

What  does  Mr.  Holmes  say  of  the  industry  of  the  Chinese 

in  Victoria? 134 

As  a  commercial  seaport,  what  is  the  rank  of  the  city  of 

Victoria,  on  the  island  of  1  longkong? 160 

Compare   the   industrial   problem  of  China   with   that  of 

England     178 

Visit  with  Mr.  Holmes  some  of  the  sh.  ps  of  Canton 192 

How  does  the  pawnshop  rank  with  other  business  enter- 
prises of  China  ? 195 

What  is  the  name  of  the  busiest  and   most   interesting 

street  in  Manila? 253 

Where  do  we  find  a  metal  church  that  has  the  appearance 

of  solid   stone? 254 

Describe  the  carabao  or  water-buffalo  of  Manila 268 

With  what  native  products  do  the  little  Filipino  merchant- 
women  tempt  the  traveler  in  old  Manila? 276 

Education  and  Religion 

As  we  pass  Molokai,  the  leper  island,  recall  the  beautiful 
sacrifice  of  the  Belgian  priest  whom  Stevenson  so 
aptly  describes  as  "the  man  who  shut  with  his  own 
hands  the  d<  m  >r  i  »f  his  i  >wn  sepulchre" 73 

In  the  old  pagan  faith  of  the  Hawaiians  what  goddess  was 

supposed  to  dwell  in  the  crater  of  Kilauea  volcano?     94 

What  royal  princess,  a  convert  to  the  new  faith,  defied  the 
gods  of  Hawaii,  and  like  Elijah  of  old,  "mocked  the 
priests  of  Baal  and  cried  unto  the  'Lord  God  of 
Israel"'0   94 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  ELEVEN  89 


PHILIPPINE    ISLANDS. 


90      AROUND  THE  WORLD  WITH  BURTON  HOLMES 

PAGE 

Where  in  Hawaii  do  we  find  a  city  seemingly  dedicated 

to  the  "Water  God"  because  of  the  almost  constant 

downpour  of  rain  ? 100 

Where   in    China   do  we   find   an    ancient   garden   grotto 

sacred  to  the  epic  poet  of  Portugal  ? 169 

What  will  you  see  on  a  visit  to  a  Buddhist  temple  with  Mr. 

Holmes?   219 

Where  do  we  find  "a  god  to  every  eight  feet  of  space".  . .  .   220 

Have  the  Chinese  a  religious  creed?  220 

What  is  the  great  ambition  of  the  Chinese  boy? 221 

Is  the  mass  of  learning  absorbed  by  the  Chinese  student 

of  practical  use  ? 222 

Describe  the  old  "examination  boxes"  of  Canton 222 

Give  the  three  degrees  necessary  to  become  "Expectants 

of  Office"  in  China 223 

What  is  the  teaching  of  Confucius  regarding  woman?.  . . .  224 
For  what  religion   was   Manila  at  one   time  an   oriental 

stronghold  ?    287 

How    do    the    Filipinos    regard    the    monastic    orders    in 

Manila  ? 297 

History  and  Government 

How  did  a  former  king  of  Hawaii  o  imbine  the  flags  of  two 

great  countries  in  his  design  for  the  Hawaiian  flag?.  .  22 
Where  does  the  wind  blow  so  hard  that  "if  you  open  your 

mouth  you  can't  shut  it  again  until  you  get  in  the  lee 

of  something"  ? 40 

What  historic  event  occurred  near  this  spot? 40 

In  how  many  languages  is  it  necessary  to  issue  the  edicts 

and  proclamations  of  the  Hawaiian  Government?...  49 
Who  first  discovered  the  Hawaiian  Islands  and  placed  this 

archipelago  upon  a  Spanish  chart? 78 

Tell  the  story  of  Captain  Cook's  landing  at  the  Hawaiian 

Isles,  his  reception  as  a  god,  and  his  death 78-80 

What  nation  builded  Hongkong  as  a  stronghold  for  its 

commerce?   134 

1  [ow  ilid  I  [ongkong  become  subject  to  England? 159 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  ELEVEN  91 

PAGE 

Through  the  influence  of  what  poet  was  the  Portuguese 
language  preserved  when  threatened  with  extinction 
by  Spanish  occupation? 170 

Where  do  we  find  one  of  the  best  equipped  and  largest 

"money-factories"  in  the  world? 195 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  TWELVE 

"  <j   wondrous  work  of  Master  Builder's  Land  — 
s     Mime,  eternal,  grand." 

The  World  Wonderful 

PAGE 

Locate  the  Yellowstone  Xational  Park 5 

How  was  this  wonderland  of  the  United  States  first  dis- 
covered, and  how  was  it  set  aside  as  a  perpetual 
playground  ?    6 

Entering  the  Yellowstone  through  the  Gardiner  Canon, 

what  are  the  first  phenomena  seen? 16 

What  is  nature's  process  of  geyser  building  as  illustrated 

in  the  Orange  Geyser? 21 

Do  the  masterpieces  of  mineral  painting  found  in  the  Yel- 
lowstone retain  their  vivid  coloring  when  the  water 
from  the  overflowing  springs  ceases  to  fl<  >w? 22 

Explain  the  phenomenon  of  terrace-building  found  in  the 

Yellowstone  Xational  Park 2     24 

How  long  must  the  water  labor  before  it  increases  the  rim 

of  a  terrace  an  inch  in  height? 23 

Xame  some  of  the  mythical  deities  honored  by  the  forma- 
tions which  bear  their  names  in  the  Xational  Park.  .     25 

Xote  the  illustration  of  the  Minerva  Terrace 25 

The  beauties  of  the  terraces  of  the  Yellowstone  are  I     -" 

revealed  at  what  hour? 26 

What  spring-  committed  suicide  by  building  up  its  crater 
to  such  height  that  the  waters,  unable  at  last  to  reach 

the  I  rsook  the  stately  pile? 26 

•ibe  a  typical  morning's  start,  and  the  splendid  trans- 
portation facilil  -  the  trip  through  the  "Wonder- 
land of  America'* 27 

Why  is  the  title  of  the  "Golden  Gate''  doublj 

How  much  did  the  construction  of  the  last  mile  of  road- 
way through  what  is  aptly  named  "Golden  Gate" 
cost  the  government  ? 28 

92 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  TWELVE 


93 


As  we  pass  the  golden  portals  of  the  Park  what  range  of 
mountains  with  an  average  altitude  of  over  10,000  ft. 
is  discerned  in  the  distance? 


PAGE 


29 


What  mountain  in  the  Yellowstone  seems  to  be  the  great 
affinity    of   the    lightning,    thus   giving   the    explorer 

quite  a  "shocking"  experience? 30 

Describe  the  obsidian  cliff  or  glass  mountain 30 

Note  illustration  of  this  famous  cliff 33 


94      AROUND  THE  WORLD  WITH  BURTON  HOLMES 

PAGE 

What  hunting  story  has  been  circulated  illustrating  the 
transparency  of  the  obsidian  cliff,  a  story  comparing 
favorably  with  the  "fish  stories"  so  often  narrated?     34 

How  many  lakes  and  waterfalls  are  found  in  the  Yellow- 
stone National  Park,  and  what  would  happen  if  this 
forest-covered  region  should  become  a  barren  waste?     41 

Has  the  United  States  Government  adopted  any  means  for 

the  preservation  of  the  forests  of  the  Yellowstone?     42 

What  fine  does  the  government  impose  upon  the  tourist 
who  is  found  carrying  unsealed  weapons  through 
this    Park? 43 

How  does  Burton  Holmes  answer  the  following  questions 
which  appeared  in  a  daily  paper: 

How  large  is  Yellowstone  Park? 

Is  it  surrounded  by  a  fence? 

What  is  the  fence  made  of? 44 

What  is  a  geyser  basin  ? 46 

According  to  the  generally  accepted   definition,  what  is 

the  theory  of  geyser  action  ? 50-54 

Note  the  pictures  of  "Old  Faithful" 50,  51,  53,  55 

What  geyser  older  than  the  pyramids  marks  time  as  faith- 
fully today  as  it  did  when  the  divine  clockmaker  first 
put  together  its  more  than  mysterious  mechanism?     57 

To  what  height  does  this  geyser  shoot  a  mass  of  steaming 

hot  water  and  for  how  long  a  period  ? 57 

What  geyser  spends  seven  years  in  preparation,  and  then 

begins  a  series  of  imposing  outbursts? 59 

What  one  word  describes  the  Paint-pots,  where  a  clay 
slush  is  constantly  in  a  state  of  ebullition,  ejecting  a 
tiny  spout  of  what  looks  like  vanilla  or  strawberry 
ice-cream  ?    60 

Describe  the  Morning  Glory  Spring.      Is   its  illusion  of 

blueness  variable? 65 

Where  in  the  Yellowstone  do  we  rind  a  lakelet  wooed  by 

two  mighty  suitors — the  Atlantic  and  the  Pacific?..     66 

Are  there  any  known  lakes  of  the  elevation  of  Lake  Yel- 

1<  >wstone  that  surpass  it  in  area  ? 68 

How  has  nature  provided  a  means  for  the  prompt  and  con- 
venient cooking  of  fish  caught  in  the  icy  waters  of 
Yellowstone    Lake  ? 75 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  TWELVE 


95 


PAGE 

As  we  gaze  upon  the  Grand  Canon  of  the  Yellowstone 
what  produces  the  color  that  in  its  vividness  seems 
"like  a  mine  of  precious  stones,  uncovered  to  amaze 
and  dazzle  the  sun  itself"  ? 86 

Viewing  the  Grand  Canon  of  the  Yellowstone  from  Look- 
out Point  can  the  tourist  realize  the  magnitude  of  the 
hundreds  of  what  seem  to  be  "reproductions  of  Gothic 
forms  of  Occidental  architecture  with  an  opulence  of 
color  that  is  more  than  Oriental"  ? 97 


THE  GRAND  CANON  OF  ARIZONA 


How  many  great  buildings,  each  as  high  as  the  twenty- 
one  stories  of  the  Masonic  Temple  in  Chicago,  if  piled 
one  upon  another,  would  equal  the  height  of  some  of 
the  great  natural  walls  of  the  Grand  Canon  of  the 
Yellowstone  ?  98 

Compare  the  brilliant  many-hued  chasm  below  the  Yel- 
lowstone Falls,  and  the  misty,  shadowy  nave  with  its 
somber  pine-clad  walls  through  which  the  river  flows 
on  toward  the  Park  boundary 102-103 

What,  according  to  Mr.  Holmes,  is  the  generating  process 
necessary  before  one  can  absorb  the  glories  of  the 
Grand  Canon  of  Arizona  ? 116 

Name  the  second  oldest  city  in  the  United  States,  and 

tell  where  it  is  located 119 


96      AROUND  THE  WORLD  WITH  BURTON  HOLMES 

PAGE 

I  >escribe  the  cliff-dwellings  to  be  found  in  Walnut  Canon, 

near  Flagstaff,  Ariz.     Note  illustrations 123-125 

Read  Captain  Dutton's  splendid  tribute  to  tbe  beauties 
of  the  Grand  Canon  of  Arizona  as  quoted  by  Mr. 
Holmes   146 

Study  the  pictured  panorama  of  the  Canon 146 

[f  but  one  of  the  stupendous  creations  found  in  the  Grand 
Canon  of  Arizona  bad  been  planted  upon  the  plains  of 
Central  Europe,  what,  in  the  estimation  of  a  well- 
known  geologist,  would  have  been  its  influence  upon 
modern    art?    ....• 150 

Is  there  any  present  evidence  of  an  unknown  people  that 
at  one  time  inhabited  the  summits  of  the  Grand 
Canon  ?    153 

Is  it  possible  to  descend  the  Grand  Canon  to  the  level  of 

the   Colorado? 155 

How  docs   Mr.   Holmes   describe  his   impressions  of  the 

descent   into  the  Canon? 159 

What  is  the  difference  in  altitude  between  the  river  level 

and  the  summit  of  the  wall  of  the  Grand  Canon?.  .  .  .    162 

Standing  on  the  river  bank  can  the  tourist  realize  the  full 

majesty  of  the  Canon  walls  ? 163 

If  the  existence  of  the  Grand  Canon  is  but  transitory  how 
does  Mr.  Holmes  explain  the  fact  that  "before  man 
was,  the  Canon   had  been"? 173 

What  was  the  aspect  of  the  Grand  Canon  region  before  the 

Colorado  laid  bare  the  layers  of  colored  rock? 174 

How  do  geologists  account  for  the  wonderful  formations 

to  be  found  in  the  Grand  Canon  of  Arizona? 174 

If  the  region  of  what  is  now  the  Grand  Canon  of  the  Ari- 
zona was  at  one  time  raised  by  some  mysterious  and 
internal  force  to  a  height  of  18,000  feet,  how  can  its 
present  level  of  8,000  feet  be  explained? 174 

Explain  how  the  waters  of  the  Colorado  have  utilized  the 
natural  tools  of  sand  and  grit  and  through  the  cen- 
turies patiently  chiseled  a  groove  between  the  slowly 
uplifting    plateau 177 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  TWELVE  97 

TAGE 

Does  the  present  Canon  of  Arizona  represent  even  one- 
half  of  the  work  accomplished  by  the  waters  of  the 
Colorado,  and  if  not,  why  not? 178 

Study  the  illustrations  of  nature's  architecture  "gnawed 

by  the  teeth  of  ages" 178-179 

What  is  the  length  and  width  of  the  Grand  Canon  of  the 

Arizona  ?   179 

Compare  this  with  the  width  of  the  Colorado  River,  the 

initial  maker  of  this  abyss  of  wonder 179 

Are  the  waters  of  the  Colorado  the  only  agents  at  work 
on  this  "never-to-be-completed  enterprise  of  nature"? 
180-183 

Descend  with  Burton  Holmes  along  Berry's  Grand  View 
Trail,  to  where  the  river  is  busy  carving  its  pathway 
through  the  never-vanquished  granite 193 

Compare  the  mighty  citadel  of  rock  a  thousand  feet  above 
the  Algerian  plateau  on  which  is  throned  the  city  of 
Constantine,  and  the  hundreds  of  imitations  of  this 
"rocky  pedestal"  found  in  the  Grand  Canon 194 

Where  do  we  find  two  natural  theaters,  carved  by  the 
blind  forces  of  earth,  more  wonderful  than  the  archi- 
tectural marvels  of  Greece,  Italy  and  Sicily? 195 

Can  the  far-famed  Taormina  offer  to  the  spectator  a  more 
lovely  vista  than  the  scenic  wonders  surrounding 
America's  antique  temples? 196 

How  does  Mr.  Holmes  aptly  estimate  the  relative  value 
of  the  Canon  of  the  Yellowstone  and  the  Inner  Gorge 
of  the  Colorado  ? 205 

Who  was  Major  Powell  ? 207 

Describe  his  thrilling  ride  for  more  than  a  thousand  miles 
on  the  mad  waters  rushing  through  the  dark  Canon 
of  the  Colorado 207-214 

Had    the    river    channel    been    explored    prior    to    Major 

Powell's   trip? 207 

How  do  the  people  of  other  nations  put  the  Americans  to 
shame  for  their  lack  of  knowledge  of  one  of  the  great- 
est marvels  in  the  world? 214 


98      ARl  )UND  THE  WORLD  WITH  BURTON  HOLMES 

PAGE 

How  have  the  Spanish  on  several  occasions  explored  the 

Grand  Canon,  and  where  in  Spain  were  the  descrip- 
tions of  this  wonderland  filed  eighty  years  before  the 
landing  of  the   Pilgrims? 218 

Architecture 

Where  do  we  find  villages  looking  so  much  like  cyclopean 
citadels  that  a  passing  tourist  might  starve  at  their 
very  threshold  without  knowledge  of  the  nearness 
of    plenty? 248 

What  village,  which  reminds  us  of  a  Grecian  acropolis, 
is  every  two  years  the  scene  of  the  famous  snake 
dance  of  the   Molds  ?    ...   252 

Study  the  detail  of  the  Mold  architecture  as  given  in  the 

illustration    255 

How  can  the  people  of  a  Mold  village  wander  from  one 
structure  to  another  without  stepping  into  the  streets 
or  plazas  ? 257 

Of  what  are  the  Moki  homes  built,  and  how  are  chimneys 
ingeniously  contrived  to  carry  off  the  smoke  from  the 
inside  fire-places? 267 

Manners  and  Customs 

In  what  way  do  the  Molds  of  Arizona  differ  from  the  other 

Pueblo  tribes? 227 

What  is  the  Arizona  slang  term  for  tinned  goods,  and  of 

what  does  a  desert  lunch  chiefly  consist? 234 

Where  do  we  find  a  law  demanding  the  ear  of  the  donkey 

for  the  ear  of  corn  he  may  surreptitiously  eat? 247 

How  do  the  I  topi  people  hag  their  game? 253 

Do  the  men  or  women  do  the  dressmaking  in  Mold  land, 
and  what  can  be  said  as  to  the  "lasting  quality"  of 
their    clothes? 261 

Describe  the  unique  coiffure  of  the  I  topi  girl 262-264 

Does  the  American  debtitante  outrival  her  Hopi  sisters  in 

the  matter  of  jewelry  ? 263 


OBSERVATIONS  MA  VOLUME  TWELVE 


99. 


PAGE 

How  does  the  Moki  housekeeper  prepare  the  yeast  for 

fermentation  ?    271 

Compare  the  time  consumed  by  the  native  Hopi  runner 
through  the  sands  of  the  Arizona  desert,  with  that 
of  the  traveler  making  the  same  trip  on  horseback.  .   283 

How  are  the  snakes,  which  are  later  to  be  used  in  the  cere- 
monial dance,  prepared  for  the  event? 294-297 

How  do  the  snake  priests  array  themselves  for  the  dance? 

Note  illustration  which  so  well  deoicts  the  costumes.  .   302 


<5 

p 

%  t 

•     Is 

V 

r 

.. 

f   T_                       —r**              COCONINO  v- 
-J         *■")                        r                          FOREST 

/arizona 

/O                              50                            100 

-  "7  "  " 

TRIFIED 
)REST 

0 

o 

■  w 
i 

|                !    MOKI      ! 
\                 !  RESERVE  ! 

4/Vto          Sj"             J  RUINS  .OF^CLIFF    ! 
C4£     Y*        1        A    '^DWELLINGS 
°*  \%      i    /                         i 

*                 T  i                     i 

"^ ^eVC^N^          ^~ 

i                             WILES 

Industrial  Life 

Where  will  seven  cartridges  buy  one  pound  of  crackers?  236 

What  is  the  staple  product  of  the  Moki  farmer? 242 

After  noting  the  illustration,  would  a  Kansas  farmer  con- 
sider a  Moki  cornfield  very  profitable? 243 

Are  there  other  products  than  corn  profitably  grown  by 

the  Moki  Indians? 244 

Why  is  farming  in  Moki  land  a  "pursuit"  in  more  ways 

than  one  ? 24? 

Is  the  term  "poor  Indian"  applicable  to  the  Navajo  nation?  320 


Education  and  Religion 

What  aroused  the  Hopi  people  against  Christianity,  and 
how  did  they  dispose  of  the  priests  whom  the  Span- 
iards left  to  rule  them  ? 


255 


ioo    AROUND  THE  WORLD  WITH    BURTON  HOLMES 

PACK 

What  can  be  said  of  the  religion  of  the  Mokis? 256 

Are  the  Moki  people  grateful  for  the  mission  and  govern- 
ment schools,  and  how  do  they  accept  our  teach- 
ings?   266, 274 

In  what  way  do  the  Hopi  mothers  teach  the  little  children 

to  know  the  different  gods  of  their  religion  ? 272 

In  the  religious  rites  of  the  Hopi  people  what  is  the  chief 

and    never-absent    aspiration? 177 

What  secret  conclave  is  held  by  the  Antelope  and  Snake 
societies  in  preparation  for  their  famous  snake  dance, 
and  according  to  the  Moki  belief  what  would  happen 
to  the  outsider  who  might  venture  to  gain  admission 
to   this   gathering? 278 

Beginning  seven  days  before  the  dance  how  do  the  Moki 
people  endeavor  to  propitiate  the  spirits  of  the  dif- 
ferent desert  shrines  ? • 281 

According  to  the  Hopi  belief,  what  messengers  are  most 
]  (leasing  to  the  great  spirits  who  control  the 
"hydraulics  of  the  sky"? 287 

Read  Burton  Holmes'  clear  description  of  the  Snake 
Dance,  which  for  ages  has  been  a  symbolic  ceremonial 
of  the  Mokis 304 

History  and  Government 

By  what  people  were  the  Mokis  discovered  and  when?..  227 
Where  do  we  find  Moki  Land,  and  how  many  villages  are 

now  inhabited  by  this  strange  tribe  of  the  pueblos?.  227 
What  people,  although  full-fledged  citizens  of  the  United 

States,  with  the  right  to  vote,  have  never  exercised 

their  franchise? 251 

By  what  treaty  was  this  franchise  granted? 251 

What  is  the  meaning  of  the  word  "Moki"  and  how  has  it 

become  the  universal  appellation  for  the  cliff  dwellers 

of   Arizona? 251 

Give  the  definition  of  the  word  "Hopi,"  the  original  name 

for  the  Mokis 251 

Where  is  the  Painted  Desert  of  America,  and  why  do  we 

know  so  little  about  it  ? 335 


OBSERVATIONS    VIA    VOLUME   THIRTEEN 

"Roll   down,   roll   down   to    Rio; 
I    want  to  roll   to   Rio 
Some  time  before   I'm  old." 

—  Kipling. 

Manners  and  Customs 

PAGE 

What  name  is  given  generally  to  all  inhabitants  of   North 

America  by  the  people  of  South  America  ? 8 

What  social  restrictions   are  discovered  by   travelers   unac- 
quainted with  South  American  customs  ? 10 

Have  the  progress  and  achievements  of  the  people  of  the 
southern  continent  been  generally  known  by  the  people 

in  North  America  ? 8 

What   spirit   prevails   between   the   countries   of    Brazil   and 

Argentina  ?    11 

What  indication  is  unconsciously  given  of  the  amusement 

loving  character  of  the  people? 11 

How  does  the  Hippodrome  of  Palermo  compare  with  the  fa- 
mous race  tracks  of  Europe  ? 206 

Does  cleanliness  plav  a  part  in  the  decorative  scheme  of  Rio?.      37 

What  is  "mate"?. .' 311 

What  is  the  usual  Paraguayan  greeting? 310 

How  does  the  famous  Chilean  dance  appear  to  the  northern 

observer  ?   261 

The  stranger  to  South  American  customs  receives  what  im- 
pression when  he  sees  the  cortege  of  a  Bishop  of  Chile?.   263 
Chilean  names  indicate  what  nationality  as  taking  a  prominent 

place  in  the  making  of  the  history  of  the  country? 272 

What  characterizes  the  home  life   of  the   wealthy   Chilean 

family  ? 278 

In  what  way  do  social  customs  of  Chile  differ  from  those 

of  North  America  ? 282 

In  what  garb  do  the  women  of  Chile  appear  in  public0 286 

The  city  of  Santiago  is  graced  by  what  unique  feature?.  . .  .   291 

How  does  Mr.  Holmes  compare  Chile  and  Argentina? 258 

Where  is  courtesy  the  rule  rather  than  the  exception? 48 

101 


102    AROUND  THE  WORLD  WITH  BURTON  HOLMES 

PAGE 

In  what  country  did  the  beggars  ride  on  horse  back? 2_M 

What  curious  name  is  given  to  an  Insane  Asylum? 172 

Where  in  South  America  is  there  a  strange  cemetery? 127 

What  is  said  of  the  Villa  Dolores? 126 

What  is  a  "Commercial  Indicator"'? 64 

Note  the  ample  accommodation  for  passengers  in  the  trolley 

cars   of  Chile .280 

The  Paode  Assucar  is  reached  by  what  unusual  method  of 

transportation  ?    80 

Geographical 

Where  is  the  most  beautiful  harbor  in  the  world? 33 

How  does  it  excel  in  beauty  ? 30 

Rio  de  Janeiro  is  how  many  days  distant  from  New  York? 

From    London  ? 9 

Which  route  is  the  more  interesting  and  why  ? 9 

What  port  of  South  America  transfers  passengers  from  ship 

to  tender  in  a  basket  ? 16 

Of  what  State  is  Recife  the  capital  ? 18 

How  does  the  area  of  Brazil  compare  with  that  of  the  United 

States  ?   9 

What  is  the  population  of  Brazil? 9 

What  peculiar  formation  predominates  in  the  mountains  of 

eastern  Brazil? 86 

What  is  the  "Sugar-loaf"  and  where  is  it  situated  ? 79 

Why  is  the  Gavea  so  called  ? 76 

Which  is  the  largest  city  of  South  America  ? 219 

Where  is  the  "River  of  Silver"? 11(> 

From  what  does  the  city  of  Montevideo  take  its  name? 121 

What  description  is  given  of  the  Pampa? 230 

How  many  hours'  journey  by  rail  from  Buenos  Aires  to 

Valparaiso  ? 268 

What  is  called  the  "back  door  of  Argentina"  ? 251 

What  river  forms  one  of  the  boundaries  between  Brazil  and 

the  Argentine  Republic? 297 

What  cataracts  are  supreme  among  the  natural  wonders  of 

the  world0  2'^ 

Where  i^  the  Uspallata  Pass? 254 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  THIRTEEN      103 

PAGE 

What  memorial  object  is  placed  there ? 256 

Is  the  "Bridge  of  the  Inca"  natural  or  artificial? 248 

How  does  Air.  Holmes  compare  the  Andes  to  other  mountain 

ranges  ?    248 

What  description  is  given  of  the  wonderful  color  effects  in 

the  Andes  ?    244 


MILES 


Where  is  Aconcagua  ? 249 

What    country    is    the    dominating    power    of    the    Western 

coast  ?  269 

The  capital  of  Chile  has  what  unique  feature? 291 

In  what  manner  did  Mr.  Holmes  and  his  party  descend  to 

Las  Cuevas  from  the  Uspallata  Pass  ? 257 


104    AROUND  THE  WORLD  WITH  BURTON  HOLMICS 

PAGE 

Note  the  mirror-like  surface  and  the  clear  reflections  in  the 
Laguna  del  Inca  as  shown  in  the  picture  Mr.  Holmes 
gives  us 260 

What  great  disaster  almost  destroyed  Valparaiso  in  1906! 


>77 


Industries  and  Occupations 

What  city  is  the  greater  export  port  of  South  America?.  . .  .  219 
What  section  of  South  America  supplies  the  markets  of  the 

world  with  rubber? 91 

Sugar  is  the  principal  product  of  what  two  South  American 

states?    91 

What  is  the  normal  production  of  coffee  in  Brazil? 91 

What  city  in  Brazil  is  the  center  of  the  coffee  trade 92 

What  part  has  the  North  American  had  in  the  development 

of  Santos  as  an  important  port? Ill 

Where  has  capital  been  found  to  bring  the  results  obtained?  112 

What  port  is  the  chief  outlet  for  the  coffee  crops? 107 

What   is   the   story   of  the   origin   of   the   custom   of   coffee 

drinking?   .  .  ' ' 102 

Describe  the  coffee  fazendas  of  Brazil? 105 

What  industries  supply  the  wealth  of  Argentina? 220 

What  can  be  said  of  the  shops  of  Buenos  Aires? 157 

Is  the  capacity  of  the  South  American  ports  equal  to  their 

commerce  ? 134 

To  the  agency  of  what  North  American  Corporation  is  Rio 

de  Janeiro's  phenomenal  growth  largely  due? 82 

What  is  a  "rotos"? 270 

For  what  is  Mendoza  famous? 238 

What  is  a  "guacho"? 234 

What  part  does  the  guacho  play  in  the  development  of  the 

wealth  of  the  country? 234 

I  low  dors  the  traveler  ascend  to  the  peak  of  the  almost  per- 
pendicular  Corcovado  ? 73 

What   railway   line   is   described   by   Mr.    Holmes   as   "mis- 
managed by  the  <  rovernment"  and  why? "2 

I  low  many  railway  lines  radiate  from  Buenos  Aires? 231 

What  peculiar  feature  for  a  high  and  dry  inland  city  is  seen 

in  the  park  at  Mendoza  ? 240 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  THIRTEEN  105 

PAGE 

What  is  meant  by  the  "Transandino"  ? 242 

Where  arc  women  employed  as  conductors  on  trolly  lines?.  .  276 

For  what  purpose  are  the  "frigorificos"  used? 302 

What  idea  does  the  picture  of  the  grain  elevators  give  of 

the  productiveness  of  the  wheat  fields  of  Argentina?.  .  136 


MILCS 


What  is  meant  by  "Estancia"? ,  .   222 

Is  the  Pampa  provided  with  sufficient  means  of  transporta- 
tion for  its  immense  yields? 2M 

How  many  hours  does  it  take  to  cross  the  level  stretches  of 

the  1  'ampa  ? 229 

What  is  Mr.  Holmes'  estimate  of  the  great  transcontinental 

railway  line  of  South  America  ? 227 


History  and  Government 

What  city  of  South  America  was,  for  two  hundred  years, 

the  seat  of  Portuguese  colonial  power  in  the  New  W<  >rld  ?  20 

What  is  the  predominating  color  of  the  population  of  Bahia?  22 

Who  were  the  rival  discoverers  of  the  Bay  of  Rio? 45 


106    AROUND  THE  WORLD  WITH  BURTON  HQLMES 

PAGE 

By  what  chance  was  Brazil  discovered? 43 

To  what  race  do  the  people  of  South  America  belong? 6 

Has  the  enterprise  of  the  people   of   South   America   been 

appreciated  by  the  people  of  North  America? 6 

To  what  two  men,  father  and  son,  are  the  Brazilians  deeply 

indebted  ?    68 

Are  governmental  crises  as  frequent  as  in  former  days? 7 

What  has,  in  a  great  measure,  given  stability  and  permanency 

to  the  present  forms  of  government? 7 

The  Monroe  Doctrine  was  adopted  because  of  what  European 

ni(  tvement  ?    39 

The  year  1871  is  memorable  for  the  passing  of  what  important 

law? 41 

Plow  has  Germany  availed  herself  of  the  opportunities  offered 

by  the  development  of  Brazil  ? 97 

Why  is  Paraguay  called  a  "land  of  widows"? 309 

Who  is  the  national  hero  of  Argentine? 241 

What  voyageur  named  South  America  "The  Island  of  the 

Holy   Cross"  ? 75 

Has    Italy    taken    any   part   in   the    development    of    South 

America  ?    98 

To  what  great  leader  are  the  people  of  South  America  indebted 

for  their  liberty? 178 

What  distinguishing  mark  of  training  does  the  army  of  Chile 

bear? 290 

Of  what  does  the  military  maneuvers  of    Bahia  remind  the 

observer  ?   27 

What  significance   has   the   25th   of   May   to   the   people   of 

Argentina?   182 

Who  is  the  father  of  the  school  system  of  Argentina  and  how- 
is  he  honored? L90 

The  French  Huguenots  gave  what  name  to  the  country  when 

they  made  their  first  settlement   in    1558? 46 

How  does  Brazil  honor  the  memor)  of  the  Kin  Brancos?. ...  40 
the  word   "Brazil"   indicate  why  the  country  of  that 

name  is  so  called? 47 

Who  are  called  "I  'ortenos"  ? 147 

What  city  of  South  America  was  the  capital  Hi  Portugal  for 

thirteen     \ear-? 71 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  THIRTEEN      107 


Architecture 

How  does  Buenos  Aires  rank  with  the  great  cities  of  the 
world  ?    

The  architecture  of 
w  hat  ancient 
city  is  sug- 
gested by  its 
houses?   9 

What  is  the  general 
effect  of  the 
city  of  Rio  de 
Janeiro  on  the 
observer?    ....     35 

What  comparison 
is  drawn  be- 
t  w  e  e  n  N  e  w 
York  and  Rio 
de  Janeiro?.  .  .     33 

What  two  Aveni- 
das  does  Mr. 
Holmes  call 
especially  mag- 
nificent?          36 

Where  are  the 
pavements  o  f 
mosaic  ? 37 

W  h  a  t  Cathedral 
brings  a  grace- 
ful tribute  to 
Greek  Art  from 
Mr.  Holmes?..    180 

Is  the  Teutonic  in- 
fluence any- 
where visible 
in  the  homes 
of  the  people  ? 97 

"A  model  thoroughfare"  is  to  be  found  in  what  city  ? 67 

Note  the  "elevadors"  connecting  lower  and  upper  Bahia. .     24 


108    AROUND  THE  WORLD  WITH  BURTON  HOLMES 

PACK 

In  what  terms  does  Mr.  Holmes  describe  the  architecture 

of  Rio  ? 64 

In  what  manner  has  Rio  de  Janeiro  availed  herself  of  the 

decorative  possibilities  of  her  water  front ? 37 

The  first  "City  Beautiful"  of  the  New  World  is  said  to  be 

in  what  country  of  South  America? 80 

Do  the  cemeteries  display  artistic  feeling  in  their  monuments 

and   mausolea? 197 

What  comparison  with  other  cities  may  be  made  with  regard 

to  the  beant_\-  of  the  Avenidas  of  Buenos  Aire-? 162 

Where  is  "All  Saints  Bay"? 19 

What  does  Mr.  Holmes  characterize  as  one  of  the  supreme 

sights  of  the  earth? 74 

What  remarkable  arrangement  has    Buenos   Aires  made   to 

beautify  a  utilitarian  object? 174 

Why  is  the  "Casa  Rosada"  so  called? 184 

How  is  excellence  in  Architecture  encourage  1  by  the  .Munici- 
pality of  Buen< '-  Aire-  ? 166 

What    representative    Hotel    does    Mr.    Holmes    describe    in 

Brazil?   140 

What  does  he  say  of  the  hotel  at  the  Falls  of  [guassu? 518 

J  low  do  i lie  houses  of  Montevideo  promise  a  future  grandeur?  124 

Education  and  Religion 

Are  the  South  Americans  linguists  ? 61 

What  is  the  status  of  the  drama  in  Brazil? 98 

Is  the  music  of  the  World's  greatest  singers  appreciated  by 
the   South   American    to   the   same    degree    as    in    other 

countries?    212 

Note  tlie  magnificence  of  the  Gallery  of  Fine  Arts  a-  shown 

by  Mr.  Holmes ". 149 

What  religion  prevails  in  Bahia  ? 28 

What   South  American  city  has  a  "church   for  every  day  in 

the  year  and  one  extra  for  leap  year?" 28 

What  city  does  Mr.  Holmes  call  the  "Mecca  of  the  Argen- 
tine"?        238 

What  curious  contrast  is   found  in  the  religion  and  politics 

of  Buenos  Aire- ': 125 


OBSERVATIONS  VIA  VOLUME  THIRTEEN       109 

PAGE 

How  does  the  Argentine  pronunciation  differ  from  that  of 

the   Castilian  ? 167 

What  eulogy  do  we  read  upon  the  life  work  of  Domenico 

Sarmiento  ?    193 

Where  is  the  finest  opera  house  in  the  world  ? 209 

In  what  degree  do  the  South  Americans  observe  the  social 

requirements  ?    210 

Which  is  designated  as  the  most  pious  city  of  South  America?  232 
What  is  the  general  tone  of  the  representative  newspaper  of 

Argentina?    215 

Do  the  affairs  of  North  America  appeal  to  the  newspapers 

of  South  America? 217 

What  great  treaty  is  commemorated   by  the   Christ  of   the 

Andes  ?   256 


Travel  Tips  on 
Travel  Trips 

Containing  Suggestions  for  Real 
or  Imaginary  Journeys 


Written  by 

ADELAIDE  M.   WOOD 


A  WORD  FROM  THE  PUBLISHERS 

'"PHE  reader  following  the  itinerary  of  the  Burton  Holmes 
A  Travelogues  will  enjoy  many  delightful  surprises  as  he 
journeys  northward  from  the  Mediterranean  to  Norway,  tours 
Russia  from  the  Baltic  to  the  Pacific,  makes  a  number  of  stops 
on  his  trip  south  to  the  Philippines,  and  crosses  the  broad  Pacific 
to  some  of  the  wonder-spots  of  America.  Because  of  these 
changes  in  clime  and  scene,  many  questions  as  to  general  prepara- 
tion for  travel  will  naturally  arise,  and  it  is  the  purpose  of  this 
little  booklet,  with  which  Mr.  Holmes  has  no  editorial  connection, 
to  furnish  the  reader  with  a  few  suggestions  as  to  the  countries 
and  places  of  interest  visited  in  the  Burton  Holmes  Travelogues. 
The  information  for  "Travel  Tips  on  Travel  Trips"  has  been 
furnished  by  Adelaide  M.  Wood,  who  has  spent  many  years  in 
actual  travel  and  the  study  of  travel  information.  We  believe  that 
the  reader,  as  well  as  the  traveler,  will  find  much  of  pleasing 
interest  and  lasting  value  in  the  offered  suggestions. 

THE  PUBLISHERS. 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS 

PAGE 

General  Suggestions 5 

Into  Morocco,  the  Land  of  Yesterday 0 

A  Pilgrimage  to  Fez,  the  Metropolis  of  the  Moors 8 

Through  the  Heart  of  the  Moorish  Empire 9 

A  Little  Journey  to  the  Cities  of  the  Barbary  Coast.  .  10 
Oases  of  the  Algerian  Sahara,  a  Trip  to  the  "Garden  of 

Allah-'    12 

Southern  Spain,  Land  of  the  Hidalgo  and  the  Don.  ...    13 

To  the  Olympian  Games  in  Athens 15 

Grecian  Tourneys  by  Carayan  Around  the  Historic  Pelo- 
ponnesus        16 

The  Wonders  of  Thessaly,  the  Country  of  the  Meteora   18 

Egypt,  the  Land  of  the  Pyramids  and  the  Sphinx 19 

To  Southern  Italy,  the  Land  of  Sunshine  and  Song.  ...   21 

Through  Switzerland,  the  Playground  of  Europe 23 

Round  About  Paris,  or  a  Trip  to  the  Quaint  Corners  of 

the  French   Capital 25 

A  Pilgrimage  to  Oberammergau,  the  Passion  Play  Vil- 
lage       27 

Cycling  Through  Corsica,  the  La  .yd  of  the  Vendetta..   23 

A  Trip  to  London,  the  Metropolis  of  the  World 29 

Sightseeing  in  Paris,  the  City  Magnificent 30 

Berlin,  the  City  of  the  Kaiser 31 

xorway,  the  land  of  the  mldnight  sun 7)3 

Touring  Sweden,  Where  the  Boats  "Go  Up  Hill" 34 

A  Journey  to  Denmark,  the  Island  Kingdom 36 

To  St.  Petersburg,  the  Imperial  City  of  Russia 37 

To  Moscow,  the  Magnificent  City  of  the  Muscoyites.  .  39 
Trans-Siberian  Railway,  Through  a  Land  of  Promise..  40 
A  Trip  Down  the  Amur,  the  Great   Gateway   to  the 

Pacific    42 

A  Sojourn  in  Peking,  the  Capital  of  China 43 

The  Forbidden  City,  or  a  Visit  to  the  Home  of  "The  Sox 
of  Heaven"   45 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS 

PAGE 

An  Excursion  to  Seoul,  the  Metrqpolis  of  the  "Land  of 
the  Morning  Calm" 46 

A  Jaunt  Into  the  Interior  of  Japan,  from  Nikko  to  the 
Rapids  of  the  Tenryugawa 47 

Visiting  the  Cities  of  Japan,  from  Tokyo  to  the  Sacred 
Islands  of  the  Inland  Sea 48 

Touring  the  Hawaiian  Islands,  the  Paradise  of  the 
Pacific    50 

A  Trip  to  the  Edge  oi   China 52 

A  Visit  to  Manila,  the  Capital  of  the  Tropical  Far  East  54 

Touring  the  Yellowstone  National  Park,  the  Wonder- 
land of  America 55 

Ax  Excursion  to  the  (  Irand  Canyon  of  Arizona,  the  Acme 
of  Sublimity  $- 

A  Visit  to  Moki  Land,  the  Home  of  the  Cliff  Dwellers 
of   Arizona    58 

South  America,  the  Land  of  Tomorrow 60 


TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS 


General  Suggestions 

What  to  Take  with  You.  Some  general  suggestions  as  to  the 
preparation  for  an  "Around  the  World"  journey  may  prove  of 
interest.  The  traveler  will  wish  to  take  just  as  little  as  possible, 
because  foreign  countries  seldom  have  a  free  checking  system, 
and  all  baggage  is  therefore  an  extra  expense.  A  small  steamer 
trunk  will  slip  under  the  berth  on  the  steamer,  and  the  baggage 
charge  will  not  be  excessive  on  the  continental  trains.  A  man 
will  find  a  heavy  suit  very  necessary,  for  it  is  cold  at  sea,  even  in 
the  summer.  A  cravenette,  a  coat  sweater,  bathrobe  and  slippers, 
a  second  suit  of  dark  material,  and  a  tuxedo — although  the  latter 
is  not  positively  necessary  if  traveling  second  class — should  be 
available.  Negligee  shirts  of  flannel  or  silk  with  soft  collars  and 
cuffs,  and  a  cap  that  will  stay  on  are  a  great  comfort.  Include  two 
pairs  of  easy,  well-fitting  shoes  and  only  enough  linen  and  other 
items  to  last  en  route,  as  the  wardrobe  can  be  added  to  quite  cheaply 
in  most  of  the  countries  visited.  A  woman  should  have  a  couple 
of  tailored  suits,  one  that  will  withstand  all  kinds  of  weather,  and 
the  other  of  some  light-weight  material ;  a  sweater,  cap  and 
gloves ;  a  heavy  veil ;  an  ulster ;  kimono,  a  one-piece  dress  of  non- 
crushable  material ;  several  plain,  and  at  least  two  more  elaborate 
waists ;  a  smart  but  simply  trimmed  hat,  and  the  customary  toilet 
and  dress  accessories.  Little  jewelry  and  aluminum  or  celluloid 
toilet  articles  instead  of  silver  will  be  found  advisable.  Steamer 
rugs  may  be  rented  with  the  chair,  from  the  deck  steward,  and 
need  not  be  carried. 

Routes  and  Tickets.  The  routes  to  the  various  parts  of  the 
earth  are  numerous,  and  each  has  its  advantages.  Reliable  infor- 
mation may  be  had  from  the  railroad  and  steamship  companies. 
In  foreign  countries  there  are  usually  three  classes  of  railway 
travel — first,  second  and  third,  the  second-class  being  quite  gen- 


6       TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS 

erally  patronized  by  foreigners.  Arrangements  should  lie  made 
long  enough  in  advance  to  assure  the  traveler  the  most  desir- 
able  accommodations.  On  hoard  ship  the  nearer  the  center 
of  the  vessel  your  stateroom  is,  the  less  you  will  feel  its  motion. 
Outside  rooms  with  windows  or  ports  are  lighter  and  hetter 
ventilated. 

Baggage.  The  average  amount  of  baggage  allowed  on  most 
steamship  lines  is  300  pounds,  and  all  pieces  should  be  tagged  or 
labeled  with  the  name  of  passenger,  steamer,  date  of  sailing. 
number  of  stateroom  and  whether  "wanted"  or  "not  wanted"  in 
stateroom.  Trunks  not  over  thirteen  inches  high,  two  and  a  half 
feet  wide  and  four  feet  long  will  fit  under  the  berths.  In  a  few 
of  the  foreign  countries  baggage  is  carried  free  to  a  limited 
number  of  pounds,  but  as  a  rule  the  traveler  will  pay  extra  for 
every  hit  of  baggage  that  is  not  carried  in  the  hands.  The 
baggage  rates  are  generally  low,  except  off  the  "beaten  path." 

Tips.  On  shipboard  the  minimum  fee  to  the  table  steward  is 
$2.50,  or  ten  shillings;  also  to  the  stateroom  steward.  The  deck- 
steward  and  the  stewardess  will  expect  a  minimum  fee  of  $1.00. 
or  four  shillings.  On  the  continent  it  is  generally  safe  to  adhere 
to  the  10%  ratio — 10%  of  the  hotel  bill,  divided  among  those 
who  serve  you.  Do  not  be  inveigled  into  tipping  any  who  have 
not  in  some  way  earned  it.  To  guard  the  traveler  who  does 
not  speak  a  foreign  language  from  any  extortion,  various  tourist 
companies  abroad  is<ne  Intel  coupons  which  are  accepted  as 
cash  whenever  presented  at  the  places  mentioned  in  these  com- 
panies' lists. 

Into  Morocco,  the  Land  of  Yesterday 

In  this  twentieth  century  we  find  few  countries  where 
men  have  not  changed  their  social,  political  and  economic  con- 
ditions to  some  degree  of  enterprise  and  progress.  But  in  the 
Moors  we  see  a  people  still  embalmed  in  the  superstition  and 
restrictions  of  Islam  as  deeply  as  it  was  in  700  \.n.  The  intensity 
of  their  fanaticism  is  so  great  that  the  life  of  a  Christian  or  a 
Jew  is  considered  unsafe  in  some  parts  of  the  country.  Their 
manners  and  customs  remain  much  as  they  were  a  thousand 
years  ago.  This  stagnation  has  been  the  reason  for  the  lack 
of  development  of  Morocco's  natural  resources.     Its  vast  natural 


TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS       7 

resources  were  left  almost  untouched,  its  fertile  soil  lay  fallow, 
and  its  industries  were  neglected.  The  Moors  remained  mediae- 
val because  of  their  observance  of  the  tenets  of  Mohammed.  They 
even  hold  themselves  somewhat  aloof  from  other  Mohammedan 
nations,  because  they  arc  convinced  that  theirs  is  the  only  true 
interpretation  of  their  prophet's  religion. 

In  the  last  few  years,  however,  Morocco,  the  land  of  the 
Moors,  has  been  outwardly  changing.  Since  the  beginning  of 
French  dominion  there  has  been  much  progress  in  the  coast 
towns.  ■  There  is  bnt  one  regrettable  feature  of  this  civilizing 
process,  that  civilization  means  modernization  and  the  destruction 
of  those  influences  which  combined  to  make  Morocco  unique 
among  modern  nations.  The  picturesqueness  of  barbarism  must 
yield  to  the  comfort  and  safety  of  civilization. 

Tangier.  Tangier  is  the  commercial  city  of  Morocco.  Here 
is  established  the  head  office  of  the  Moroccan  State  Bank.  As 
this  city  is  easily  reached  by  steamer  from  Gibraltar  it  is  usually 
the  only  part  of  Morocco  seen  by  the  traveler  with  limited  time 
at  his  command.  It  is  quite  cosmopolitan  in  character,  and  it 
is  the  place  of  exile,  political  or  social,  of  many  people  who  find 
its  policy  of  "no  questions  asked"  a  comfortable  one.  Its  streets 
and  markets  are  fascinating  and  charm  the  traveler  from  other 
lands  by  their  unusual  features. 

Language.  The  language  of  the  Moors  is  Berber,  several 
dialects  being  used.  On  the  plains  and  coast  of  Morocco  Arabic 
is  generally  spoken.  Of  late  years,  since  tourists  have  included 
Morocco  in  their  itinerary,  a  mixture  of  many  tongues  is  heard 
in  the  coast  towns. 

Transportation.  Steamship  service  is  reasonably  frequent 
between  Tangier  and  the  other  ports  of  the  world,  though  in 
many  instances  transhipment  at  Gibraltar  is  necessary.  There  are 
practically  no  railroads.  A  railroad  twenty- four  miles  long  \vas 
laid  from  Casablanca  to  Ber  Reshid,  and  another  short  railroad 
connects  the  town  of  Mclilla  with  some  neighboring  mines.  These 
are  of  no  benefit  to  tourists.  The  interior  of  the  country  remains 
practically  as  it  was  a  thousand  years  ago.  Goods  are  trans- 
ported by  means  of  caravans,  and  there  are  not  even  the  ordinary 
rest  stations  or  caravansaries  of  other  eastern  countries  to  be 
found.  Travelers  have  therefore  to  carry  their  own  tents,  food 
and  any  other  conveniences  desired — all  goods  to  be  carried  on 


8       TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS 

the  backs  of  pack  animals.  Xo  roads  and  few  bridges  make 
progress  through  this  "land  of  yesterday"  somewhat  difficult.  In 
the  mountainous  regions  a  guard  is  necessary,  as  the  interior  is 
unsafe  for  foreigners. 

Passports.  It  is  advisable  for  travelers  to  be  provided  with 
passports,  which  are  always  valuable  for  the  purpose  of  identifica- 
tion and  save  their  possessors  from  many  petty  annoyances. 
They  are  necessary  in  Morocco  for  traveling  inland  or  for  em- 
barking on  board  French  steamers  for  Oran.  Passports  should 
be  vised  by  the  consuls  of  the  countries  to  be  visited. 

Hotels.  For  the  first  visit  to  this  country  it  is  wisest  to 
patronize  the  hotels  under  European  management.  The  food  is 
usually  prepared  by  a  French  chef,  but  native  dishes  can  be 
obtained.  It  is  necessary  to  be  very  careful  in  regard  to  the  use 
of  drinking  water.  The  safest  plan  is  to  drink  only  the  bottled 
waters. 

A  Pilgrimage  to  Fez,  the  Metropolis  of  the  Moors 

Arrangements.  To  anyone  contemplating  a  trip  into  the 
interior  of  Morocco,  a  simple  solution  of  the  problem  of  trans- 
portation is  to  place  the  whole  matter  of  arrangement  in  charge 
of  a  responsible  guide.  This  man  should  be  recommended  by  the 
manager  of  the  hotel  or  a  reliable  tourist  agency.  He  will  provide 
everything  necessary  for  the  journey,  mules  for  the  traveler  and 
his  baggage,  tents,  food  and  the  necessary  servants.  The  guide 
will  be  prepared  to  meet  every  possible  contingency,  and  will 
relieve  the  traveler  of  many  troubles. 

Compensation.  The  price  asked  for  service,  if  the  bargain 
is  made  with  a  native,  will  be  at  least  twice  the  sum  finally  agreed 
upon.  If  arrangements  are  made  with  a  tourist  agency  of  the 
best  standing,  the  amount  charged  will  be  much  lower. 

Difficulties.  The  tourist  should  remember  the  intense  fanati- 
cism prevalent  in  Mohammedan  countries,  especially  in  Morocco, 
and  avoid  any  action  which  will  give  cause  for  resentment  on  the 
part  of  the  native.  A  little  observation  and  consideration  for 
the  customs  of  the  country  visited  will  carry  one  through  any 
difficult  situation, 

Fez.  This  city,  capital  of  the  Moroccan  Empire,  is  the  prin- 
cipal distributing  center  of  the  country  for  European  products. 


TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS  9 

It  is  the  starting  point  of  caravans  going  south  into  the  interior 
of  Africa.  The  city  dates  from  the  eighth  century  and  is  a  strong- 
hold of  Islam.  Articles  of  leather,  rugs,  silk,  shawls  and  the 
"Fez"  or  tarboosh,  worn  by  all  Mohammedans,  are  here 
made. 

Passports.  In  a  country  like  Morocco  the  traveler  will  need 
his  passport  and  any  letters  of  introduction  which  he  may  be 
fortunate  enough  to  secure.  To  travel  into  the  interior  it  is 
necessary  to  secure  special  permission,  and  arrangements  for  the 
trip  must  be  made  through  a  Consul. 

Clothing.  The  clothing  for  the  trip  to  Fez  should  be  of  the 
simplest  description.  The  weather  is  generally  warm  and  the  days 
sunny,  and  while  clothes  of  light  weight  are  necessary,  laundering 
facilities  are  absolutely  lacking ;  hence  elaborate  gowns  are  sadly 
out  of  place.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  carry  a  quantity  of  worn  under- 
wear or  lingerie  and  discard  it  when  it  is  soiled.  New  outfits 
can  be  obtained  from  the  fascinating  shops  upon  the  return  to 
the  coast  towns.  The  traveler  should  remember  that  Fez  is  in 
the  same  latitude  as  Richmond,  Virginia,  but  much  warmer,  owing 
to  the  proximity  of  the  Sahara.  "White  clothing  is  generally  worn. 
The  pith  helmet,  worn  everywhere  in  tropical  countries,  is  always 
worn  in  Morocco.  A  white  umbrella  with  a  green  lining  is  a  great 
protection  against  the  sun's  heat. 

Through  the  Heart  of  the  Moorish  Empire 

An  Adventurous  Journey.  For  the  adventurous  one  search- 
ing for  the  realization  of  his  youthful  dreams  of  the  magnificence 
of  the  Moors,  a  journey  through  Morocco  will  be  a  mingling  of 
delight  and  disillusionment.  The  greatest  danger  to  the  traveler  is 
the  intense  hatred  of  the  Moslem  for  the  Christian.  Caution  should 
be  observed  to  avoid  unnecessary  antagonism. 

Inconveniences.  The  traveler  must  be  prepared  for  the  lack 
of  all  comforts.  If  he  can  endure  deprivations  with  a  smile  or 
a  shrug,  and  simply  say  with  the  Mohammedan — "It  is  written," 
and  take  life  as  it  comes  to  him  day  by  day,  he  is  indeed  a  good 
comrade  and  a  good  traveler. 

Roads.  There  are  no  roads  or  canals  in  Morocco,  and  no 
railroads  of  any  convenience  to  the  traveler.  There  are  only 
trails  for  the  caravans  which  traverse  the  countrv.      Since   the 


10  TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS 

occupation  of  northern  Africa  by  the  French,  some  effort  is  being 
made  to  build  roads  between  Fez  and  the  seaports,  but  the  great 
obstacle  is  the  Mohammedan  prejudice  against  innovations. 

Accommodations.  The  traveler  who  plans  a  trip  into  the 
interior  of  Morocco  must  be  a  dweller  in  his  own  tent.  It  is  well, 
however,  to  claim  the  hospitality  of  the  tribesmen  met  on  the 
way,  thus  insuring  the  protection  of  the  different  kaids,  whose 
sacred  duty  it  is  to  guard  the  traveler  against  harm. 

Brigandage.  The  interior  of  Morocco  is  infested  with  roving 
bands  of  thieves,  who  take  their  toll  of  the  villages,  caravans, 
and  the  unprotected  traveler.  Unless  accompanied  by  a  guard 
the  traveler  will  almost  certainly  suffer  from  their  depredations. 

Currency.  The  great  variety  of  currency  used  in  Morocco 
makes  it  necessary  for  the  traveler  to  have  some  knowledge  of 
the  monies  of  all  nations  as  well  as  the  "hassani,"  or  Moorish 
money.  The  rate  of  exchange  fluctuates  daily  and  sometimes 
hourly,  but  the  American  and  English  gold  and  the  American 
dollar  is  always  at  a  premium. 

Holidays.  There  are  three  Sabbaths  in  Morocco,  the  Moham- 
medan on  Friday,  the  Jewish  on  Saturday,  and  the  Christian  on 
Sunday.  Consequently,  some  of  the  shops  of  the  towns,  as  they 
happen  to  belong  to  the  respective  followers  of  these  three 
religions,  are  closed  on  three  days  of  the  week:  but  there  is  no 
day  on  which  all  the  shops  are  closed  and  business  at  a  standstill. 

A  Little  Journey  to  the  Cities  of  the  Barbary  Coast 

Algiers.  To  the  tourist  who  has  time  to  linger  in  his  sight- 
seeing, Algiers  will  perhaps  offer  the  greatest  inducement.  The 
climate  is  perfect,  the  situation  of  the  city  beautiful,  and  the  city 
itself  so  modernized  that  every  comfort  is  obtainable. 

Hotels.  The  hotels  are  numerous  and  excellent,  with  a 
moderate  tariff,  and  are  usually  under  the  management  of 
Europeans.  They  are  furnished  with  all  the  conveniences.  Small 
villas  can  he  rented  by  those  who  are  tempted  to  dwell  a  while  in 
this  lovely  place. 

Bazaars.  These  are  easily  the  objects  of  greatest  attraction 
Id  the  tourist.  The  wares  displayed  fur  sale  fairly  charm  the 
money  out  of  the  pocket.  The  price  asked  for  an  article  is 
usually  two  or  three  times  the  amount  finally  accepted.    To  many. 


TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS  11 

not  the  least  part  of  the  pleasure  in  buying  is  in  the  bargaining. 

Amusements.  As  Algiers  is  a  miniature  Paris,  the  social  life 
of  the  city  is  distinguished  by  its  gayety  and  by  its  cosmopolitan 
character.  Letters  of  introduction  are  necessary  for  the  stranger 
who  desires  recognition  from  the  social  colony  of  Algiers. 

Points  of  Interest.  The  city  of  Algiers,  delightful  as  it  may 
be,  wijl  not  satisfy  the  traveler  who  wishes  to  know  more  inti- 
mately the  Barbary  Coast.  A  westward  trip  to  Oran  may  be 
planned,  with  stops  at  the  Hammam  Rirha  hot  springs,  where 
the  tourist  will  find  an  excellent  hotel,  and  on  to  Tlemcen,  which 
was  at  one  time  the  proud  capital  of  the  Moorish  kingdom. 

An  eastward  trip  of  unusual  interest  for  scenery  and  tradition 
is  to  the  Kabyle  Mountains,  about  seventy  miles  east  of  Algiers. 
The  trip  to  the  foothills  can  be  made  by  rail  and  stage  to  Fort 
National.  In  these  mountains  will  be  found  the  people  who 
inhabited  Algeria  at  the  dawn  of  history.  From  Fort  National, 
a  military  outpost,  in  the  confines  of  which  a  little  city  has  arisen, 
trips  into  the  interior  of  this  mountainous  district,  may  be  ar- 
ranged. 

Another  eastward  trip,  which  is  about  a  day's  ride  by  rail 
from  Algiers,  is  to  Constantine,  the  Wonder-City,  perched  upon 
the  cliffs  that  rise  a  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the  plain. 

Railroads.  The  French  have  built  wonderful  highways 
through  Algeria.  They  have  created  a  railroad  system  traversing 
the  northern  part  of  the  country,  from  the  western  boundary  as 
far  east  as  Tunis,  and  in  addition  are  building  southward  into  the 
desert.  The  railroads  of  Algeria  are  not  yet  equal  to  those  of 
Europe,  but  they  enable  the  tourist  to  travel  in  the  manner  to 
which  he  is  accustomed,  instead  of  by  the  primitive  and  slower 
methods  of  the  native. 

Language.  The  natives  are  rapidly  acquiring  the  French 
language.  The  shop-keepers  are  clever  linguists  who  can  drive  a 
bargain  in  almost  any  tongue. 

A'atk'e  Prejudice.  It  is  well  to  call  the  attention  of  the  traveler 
to  the  necessity  of  extreme  caution  in  visiting  the  remoter  and 
less  frequented  portions  of  Algeria,  as  hostility  toward  the 
Christian  prevails  here  as  elsewhere  in  Mohammedan  countries. 
Women  should  not  go  unattended  except  on  the  most  traveled 
streets  of  the  cities,  and  then  only  in  daylight.  In  visiting  the 
Mosques   the  traveler   is   usually   required   to   remove  his   shoes 


12 


TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS 


before  entering,  but  in  some  of  the  Mosques  the  visitor  is  pro- 
vided with  large  yellow  slippers,  which  are  to  be  tied  on  over 
the  shoes.  A  small  fee  should  be  given  to  the  man  who  ties 
them  on,  and  also  to  the  guide.  Oftentimes  the  tender  of  a  piece 
of  silver  to  the  doorkeeper  proves  most  effectual  in  obtaining 
permission  to  enter. 

Money.  The  table  below  summarizes  the  coinage  of  Algeria, 
which  is  the  same  as  that  of  France,  and  gives  the  equivalent 
values  in  United  States  money  at  the  rate  at  $0,193  for  one  franc. 
It  is  simpler  for  the  traveler  mentally  to  consider  the  value  of  a 
franc  $0.20;  two  francs  $0.40;  five  francs  $1.00.  The  monetary 
unit  is  the  franc  of  100  centimes. 


Copper  Coins 

Silver  Coins 

Gold  Coins 

Paper 

Money 

Si  iu.   or  5c.  .$o.di  k  1 
2  sous  or  ioc     .0193 

50c.       $0,096* 

1  f.           .193 

2  f.           .386 
5  i-          -965 

5  1           $0,965 
10  f.            1.93 
20  f.           3.86 

50  f. 

100  f. 

500  f. 

1000  f. 

19.30 
96.50 

193.00 

Oases  of  the  Algerian  Sahara,  a  Trip  to  the  ''Garden 

of  Allah" 

The  Sahara.  The  desert  has  much  the  same  charm  for  the 
traveler  as  the  sea.  It  has  long  been  the  theme  of  song  and 
story,  and  to  see  it  is  like  looking  upon  the  familiar  face  of  a 
friend.  He  who  has  been  once  under  the  fascination  of  these 
wastes  of  shifting  sand  can  never  lose  the  desire  to  return. 

Transportation.  Railroads  and  excellent  highways  take  the 
traveler  into  the  desert.  But  unless  he  has  the  added  pleasure  of 
a  ride  upon  a  real  "ship  of  the  desert,"  the  camel,  he  will  feel 
defrauded  of  some  of  his  impressions.  The  manner  of  mounting 
is  somewhat  trying  to  the  novice.  One  easily  gets  into  the  saddle 
while  the  animal  is  kneeling,  but  when  it  rises  complainingly  to 
its  feet  the  rider  is  thrown  backward  and  then  forward  and  must 
cling  tightly  to  the  high  pommel  to  keep  from  making  an  igno- 
minious descent.  The  ground  seems  very  far  away,  and  the 
motion  almost  unendurable:  but  it  is  possible  to  ride  very  com- 
fortably if  the  body  is  relaxed  and  allowed  to  yield  to  the  swing- 
ing stride  of  the  animal. 


TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS  13 

Protection  from  the  Sun.  In  long  rides  under  the  x\frican 
sun  it  is  imperative  that  sufficient  protection  he  given  the  head. 
A  voluminous  dust  cloak,  dark  glasses  and  a  heavy  veil  are 
necessary.  Cold  cream  as  a  cleanser  for  the  face  is  suggested, 
as  water  is  always  hard  to  obtain  and  the  opportunities  for  its 
use  are  few. 

Points  of  Interest.  The  traveler  to  the  Algerian  Sahara  will 
find  that  through  the  perseverance  of  the  French  engineers  a  road 
has  been  perfected  through  the  defile  which  pierces  the  chain 
of  the  Atlas  mountains,  and  the  glorious  pages  of  Nature  as 
revealed  in  the  trip  through  the  Gorges  of  Chabet  may  now  be 
enjoyed  without  danger  or  discomfort.  This  trip  may  be  taken 
overland  by  stage  from  Bougie,  a  port  on  the  coast  of  Barbary, 
or  by  railroad. 

Beyond  the  gorge  are  the  ruins  of  Timgad,  the  African 
Pompeii,  and  a  little  further  on  the  borderland  town  of  Biskra, 
"The  Mecca  of  the  Moslem  and  Christian  nomad."  Before  leav- 
ing Bougie  travelers  who  desire  to  penetrate  the  desert  and  visit 
some  of  the  interesting  oases  should  make  careful  inquiries  as 
to  placing  all  arrangements  for  the  desert  trip  in  the  hands  of  a 
reliable  guide,  recommended  by  the  hotel  or  a  tourist  agency,  as 
the  guide  will  provide  the  necessary  equipment  and  will  be  ready 
for  every  emergency. 

Southern  Spain,  Land  of  the  Hidalgo  and  the  Don 

Gibraltar.  This  town  of  about  20,000  is  the  port  through 
which  the  ocean  traveler  enters  southern  Spain.  The  Rock,  as 
the  English  proudly  term  Gibraltar,  guards  the  entrance  way  to 
the  Mediterranean  and  the  lands  beyond,  and  is  one  of  the  two 
rocks  known  in  ancient  times  as  the  Pillars  of  Hercules.  The  town 
has  a  motley  population  of  Spaniards,  Italians  and  Jews,  beside  a 
garrison  of  five  thousand  English  soldiers.  Cabs  are  always 
stationed  in  the  space  just  beyond  the  custom  house.  The  cab 
tariff  is  moderate  and  many  of  the  cabmen  speak  a  little  English. 
After  a  short  drive  about  the  city,  visiting  the  Alameda  Gardens 
and  passing  other  points  of  interest,  the  tourist  should  go  to  the 
entrance  to  the  lower  galleries  of  the  fortress.  From  this  point 
the  visitor  must  proceed  on  foot.  Cameras  must  be  left  at  the 
guard  house.    These  remarkable  galleries  were  cut  through  solid 


14  TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS 

rock  by  the  different  owners  of  this  mighty  fortress,  and  through 
the  apertures  made  for  the  cannon,  and  screened  on  the  outside 
by  shrubs  and  vines,  wonderful  views  of  the  harbor  and  the 
lower  rock  can  be  obtained.  The  cannon  guarding  ihese  lower 
galleries  are  old.  The  modern  and  effectual  weapons  of  warfare 
are  higher  up  and  are  not  accessible  to  visitors. 

Shops.  The  shops  of  Gibraltar  are  excellent.  Beautiful  laces, 
shawls,  embroideries  and  articles  of  sandalwood  and  Toledo  work 
can  here  be  purchased  for  very  little.  It  is  not  always  advisable 
to  pay  the  first  price  asked  for  an  article,  as  a  little  bargaining 
may  bring  a  substantial  reduction.  The  merchants  invariably 
speak  English. 

Landing  and  Embarkation  Fees.  The  expenses  of  landing. 
and  in  some  cases  of  embarking,  are  borne  by  the  passenger. 
Various  tourist  companies  issue  tickets  for  this  purpose,  and  they 
prove  a  great  convenience  to  the  traveler.  They  provide  at  a 
very  low  rate  for  the  landing  or  the  embarkation  of  the  pas- 
senger, with  a  reasonable  amount  of  baggage. 

Passports.     Travelers  should  always  be  provided  with  \ 
ports.    The  vise  of  a  Spanish  consul  is  not  necessary,  but  will  be 
found  useful  in  traveling  in  provincial  towns  and  country  districts. 
as  the  tourist  often  needs  some  means  of  identification. 

Customs.  It  is  necessary  for  passengers  to  be  present  at  the 
examination  of  their  baggage  and  hand  their  keys  to  the  inspect- 
ing officer,  and  it  well  pays  to  be  civil  and  obliging.  In  landing  at 
Gibraltar  it  is  to  be  remembered  that  tobacco  and  wines  are 
dutiable,  also  preserved   fruits  or  any  article  containing  sugar. 

Railroads.  Leaving  Gibraltar  the  tourist  crosses  the  bay  to 
Algeciras,  Spain,  where  the  Spanish  railway  has  its  terminus. 
Here  he  boards  the  train  for  the  interesting  points  in  southern 
Spain,  amongst  which  should  be  included  a  visit  to  Ronda.  the 
cliff-perched  and  beautifully  picturesque  city  of  this  land  of 
sunshine:  Seville  with  its  wonderful  old  Cathedral  and  Giralda 
Tower,  its  Plaza  de  Torros.  where  the  famous  bull  fights  may 
be  witnessed  at  certain  seasons,  its  great  tobacco  industry  and 
interesting  shops,  and  Granada  with  its  visions  of  oriental  splen- 
dor and  it-;  famous  old  Moorish  palace,  the  Alhambra. 

Baggage.  Baggage  to  the  amount  of  66  pounds  is  carried 
free  on  railroads  in  Spain.  A  passenger  cannot  claim  more 
room  for  his  hand  baggage  than  is  comprised  in  the  space  under 


TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS  15 

his  seat  or  in  the  netting  over  his  head.  All  baggage  should  be  of 
such  a  character  that  it  can  be  quickly  and  easily  opened  for 
customs'  inspection.  Insurance  on  all  luggage  is  strongly  recom- 
mended. This  covers  all  risks  of  loss  while  traveling  by  land  or 
sea,  including  loss  by  fire  or  theft,  and  while  stopping  at  hotels. 
The  rates  are  very  low  and  the  possession  of  insurance  a  pro- 
tection. 

Money  of  Spain.  English  money  is  used  in  Gibraltar,  but 
across  the  frontier  only  Spanish  money  is  taken.  The  bronze  5 
and  10  centesimos  nearly  equal  in  value  1  and  2  cents  American 
money.  The  silver  pieces  are  the  50  centesimos,  about  9*^  cents ; 
the  peseta,  19  cents,  and  the  5  peseta-piece,  equal  to  76  cents. 
In  gold  there  are  the  20  peseta,  value  $3.84 ;  and  the  25  peseta 
worth  $4.80. 

To  the  Olympian  Games  in  Athens 

On  the  Way.  It  is  necessary  to  know  something  of  Italy  as 
well  as  Greece  in  following  the  Travelogue  itinerary  to  the 
Olympian  Games,  as  the  traveler  will  land  in  Naples  and  embark 
at  Brindisi. 

Customs.  New  wearing  apparel,  silk,  lace,  embroideries,  tea, 
tobacco,  liqueurs,  perfumery,  and  sweetmeats  are  dutiable  in 
Italy.  If  the  traveler  is  courteous  and  obliging,  little  difficulty 
will  be  had  in  passing  the  articles  purchased  for  personal  use. 

Passports.  Travelers  are  liable  to  be  called  upon  at  any  time 
to  establish  their  identity,  and  in  claiming  mail  or  registered  bag- 
gage a  passport  is  frequently  necessary. 

Railways.  There  is  a  choice  of  routes  from  Naples  to  Brindisi. 
One  route  starts  south  from  Naples,  through  Pompeii  and 
Salerno,  giving  through  service  to  Brindisi,  a  journey  of  240 
miles.  The  other  route  takes  the  traveler  northeast  through 
Caserta,  Benevento,  and  Foggia  to  Brindisi,  a  distance  of  270 
miles.  No  baggage  is  carried  free  of  charge  on  the  railways  in 
Italy. 

Postal  Arrangements.  Mail  directed  in  the  care  of  a  reliable 
tourist  agency  or  a  bank  will  insure  its  receipt.  Travelers  are 
advised  to  see  that  letters  or  parcels  sent  by  them  are  weighed 
and  properly  stamped.  Mail  matter  not  fully  prepaid  is  subject 
to  an  extra  charge  above  the  normal  rate. 


16  TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS 

Prom  Italy  to  Greece.    From  Brindisi  to  Tatras,  a  distance  of 

251  miles,  the  traveler  may  travel  very  comfortably  by  one  of 
several  lines  making  weekly  sailings.  The  boats  are  electric 
lighted  and  furnished  with  two-,  three-  and  four-berth  cabins. 
The  train  for  Athens  awaits  the  arrival  of  the  boat  at  Tatras,  on 
the  Gulf  of  Corinth. 

Hotels  in  Greece.  A  distinct  understanding  must  be  had  of 
the  bargain  made  with  the  hotel  keeper  as  to  the  price  to  be  paid 
for  rooms  and  meals.  Overcharges  are  frequent  and  only  those 
familiar  with  the  language  will  succeed  in  reducing  bills  to  proper 
proportions. 

Precaution.  Greece,  like  many  of  the  European  countries,  is 
infested  with  fleas,  as  well  as  other  varieties  of  vermin,  and  a 
package  of  insect  powder  should  be  included  among  the  articles 
carried. 

Clothing.  The  difference  in  temperature  between  sunshine  and 
shade  is  very  marked  even  in  the  summer  time.  A  warm  wrap 
is  quite  necessary  when  sitting  out  of  doors  in  boat  or  carriage,  or 
in  the  evening.  Strong  boots  should  be  included  for  the  rough 
walking.  Dark  glasses  are  advisable  and  may  be  purchased  much 
more  cheaply  on  the  continent  than  in  Greece.  A  wide  brimmed 
hat  with  a  scarf  or  "puggaree"  will  protect  the  head  and  neck 
from  the  intense  heat  of  the  sun. 

Olympian  Games.  The  original  Athenian  Stadium  was  laid 
out  330  years  before  Christ.  About  500  years  later  a  Roman 
citizen  erected  a  stadium  of  marble,  and  in  1896  this  was  restored 
according  to  the  ancient  plans.  Here  were  held  the  first  of  the 
modern  Olympian  Games.  Past  the  entrance  runs  the  road  from 
Marathon.  From  the  upper  tiers  of  the  Stadium  may  be  seen 
the  Bay  of  Salamis  and  the  Acropolis  of  old  Athens. 

Grecian  Journeys  by  Caravan  Around  the  Historic 
Peloponnesus 

Piraeus.  Piraeus,  the  port  of  Athens,  is  five  and  one-half 
miles  from  Athens,  with  frequent  train  service  between  the  two 
points. 

Boats.  In  hiring  small  boats  for  short  trips  about  the  harbor, 
the  tariff  must  be  agreed  upon  before  starting,  otherwise  an 
exorbitant  fee  may  be  levied  en  route. 


TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS  17 

Canal  of  Corinth.  This  canal  extends  between  Posidonia  on 
the  Gulf  of  Corinth  and  Isthmia  on  the  Aegean  Gulf.  It  is 
20,000  feet  long,  26  feet  deep,  and  about  70  feet  broad.  It  is 
crossed  by  one  railway  bridge  141  feet  above  the  surface  of  the 
canal.  The  canal  being  illumined  with  electric  light  is  navigable 
by  night  as  well  as  by  day.  The  average  passage  is  made  in  thirty 
minutes. 

Railways  of  Greece.  There  are  about  a  thousand  miles  of 
railway  open  to  traffic.  The  cars  are  fairly  comfortable  and  are 
first-  and  second-class.  Greek  railway  time  is  thirty-five  minutes 
in  advance  of  Central  Europe  railway  time.  No  general  time- 
table is  furnished.  A  list  of  trains  may  be  obtained  at  the  rail- 
road stations.  Travel  by  railroad  is  supplemented  by  carriages 
and  the  mule  trains  which  are  used  for  the  mountain  trails. 
Arrangements  for  journeys  off  the  lines  of  railways  should  be 
made  with  an  accredited  guide  who  will  assume  all  responsibility. 

Passports  in  Greece.  There  are  no  special  regulations  in  force 
regarding  passports  except  for  persons  entering  the  country  by 
way  of  the  land  frontier.  A  properly  vised  passport  is  invariably 
a  means  of  convenience  and  safety,  and  the  traveler  will  find  it 
advisable  to  carry  one. 

Route  to  Olympia.  There  is  a  choice  of  routes  from  Athens 
to  Olympia.  The  first  takes  the  traveler  from  Athens  to  Patras, 
then  south  from  Patras  to  Olympia ;  the  second  from  Athens 
south  through  Nauplia  to  Kalamata,  thence  north  to  Olympia. 

Greek  Calendar.  The  Greek  calendar  or  Old  Style  is  thirteen 
days  later  than  the  Xew  Style  calendar ;  for  example,  January  1 
in  the  Greek  calendar  is  January  14  in  the  Xew  Style. 

Money.  The  monetary  unit  is  the  drachma  of  100  lepta. 
The  circulating  medium  of  Greece  consists  principally  of  paper. 
Notes  are  issued  for  5,  10,  25,  100  drachma  and  upwards.  Copper 
coins  are  the  5  and  10  lepta ;  nickel  coins  are  5,  10,  and  20.  The 
rate  of  exchange  varies  greatly,  but  the  drachma,  like  the  French 
franc,  is  worth  approximately  $0,193  in  United  States  or  Canadian 
gold.     English  gold  is  always  at  premium  at  the  banks. 

Cameras.  There  is  no  difficulty  in  regard  to  photographing 
in  Italy  or  Greece,  providing  the  camera  is  not  used  in  the 
vicinity  of  fortifications.  Films  are  more  convenient  to  carry 
than  plates  and  the  tourist  will  find  places  in  almost  every  town 
of  any  size  where  new  films  can  be  purchased  and  the  exposed 


18  TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS 

ones  developed.     It  is  best  to  buy  a  special  film  that  is  prepared 
for  use  in  warm  climates. 


The  Wonders  of  Thessaly,  the  Country  of  the 
Meteora 

Stcamsliips.  Volo,  the  chief  port  of  Thessaly,  is  reached  by 
the  ships  of  the  Hellenic  Steam  Navigation  John  MacDowall  line, 
sailing  at  stated  intervals  from  Piraeus.  The  voyage  lasts  about 
twenty-four  hours. 

Railways.  The  journey  from  Volo  to  Kalabaka,  a  distance  of 
101  miles,  is  made  by  rail.  Kalabaka  is  the  point  from  which 
the  traveler  proceeds  by  caravan  to  the  ancient  monasteries  of  the 
heights.  It  is  advisable  to  place  the  management  of  trips  of  this 
nature  in  the  hands  of  a  reliable  guide  and  allow  him  to  take 
all  responsibility  for  the  arrangements. 

Velestino.  This  is  a  little  town,  of  about  1,600  people,  on  the 
site  of  the  ancient  Pherae.  where  tradition  says  that  Apollo 
tended  the  flocks  of  King  Admetus.  The  tourist  must  change 
cars  at  Velestino  for  Trikkala  and  Kalabaka. 

Duties  of  the  Guide.  The  agreement  between  the  traveler  and 
the  guide  who  is  to  conduct  him  into  the  interior  of  the  country 
is  called  a  "symphonia."  This  agreement  should  be  made  with  an 
appearance  of  leisurely  indifference  on  the  part  of  the  traveler. 
Contracts  formally  drawn  up  and  signed  by  both  parties  are 
sometimes  used,  but  if  the  guide  is  well  recommended  verbal 
arrangements  generally  prove  just  as  satisfactory.  The  price 
averages  from  forty  to  fifty  francs  a  day  for  each  member  of 
the  party.  The  duties  of  the  guide  begin  when  the  part}-  leaves 
the  hotel,  and  end  upon  the  return,  or  the  arrival  at  an  agreed 
destination.  The  guide  pays  all  railway,  steamboat  or  carriage 
fares,  hires  the  saddle  and  pack  horses,  provides  all  meals,  secures 
accommodation  for  the  night,  and  is  responsible  for  the  comfort 
of  the  persons  under  his  care.  In  case  of  a  journey  demanding 
such  service,  he  must  provide  a  good,  mattress  and  suitable  bed- 
clothing  for  each  member  of  the  party.  In  the  event  of  the 
traveler  ending  his  tour  at  a  distance  from  the  home  of  the 
courier  no  additional  compensation  is  necessary.  A  small  gra- 
tuity, however,  is  generally  added.     Half  the  sum  agreed  upon  is 


TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS  19 

customarily  paid  in  advance  to  enable  the  guide  to  purchase  food 
and  supplies.  The  other  half  should  be  retained  until  the  com- 
pletion of  the  journey. 

The  Monasteries.  A  visit  to  the  most  important  monasteries 
of  the  Meteora  may  be  made  in  about  five  hours.  At  the  Hagios 
Stephanos,  accommodation  for  the  night  may  be  had.  Food  is 
supplied  the  traveler  unasked,  but  compensation  should  be  offered 
and  is  invariably  accepted. 

Vale  of  Tempe.  This  historic  spot  lies  at  some  distance  by 
carriage  from  the  railway  terminal  Larissa,  which  is  easily  ac- 
cessible by  rail  from  Volo,  a  distance  of  thirty-eight  miles. 

Egypt,  the  Land  of  the  Pyramids  and  the  Sphinx 

The  Ports  of  Egypt.  The  traveler  from  America  or  Europe 
enters  Egypt  through  one  of  her  two  northern  ports,  Alexandria 
or  Port  Said.  Alexandria,  a  flourishing  city  since  England's 
protectorate  gave  new  impetus  to  its  commerce,  is  situated  on  the 
Nile  delta.  Port  Said,  which  owes  its  existence  to  the  Suez 
Canal,  lies  near  the  eastern  boundary  and  at  the  entrance  to  the 
canal.  At  Alexandria  the  passenger  lands  at  the  dock ;  but  at 
Port  Said  he  is  taken  ashore  in  a  tender.  Cairo  being  the  ob- 
jective point,  the  traveler  loses  no  time  in  boarding  the  train 
which  will  carry  him  over  the  intervening  miles  to  one  of  the 
most  fascinating  cities  of  all  the  world. 

Railways.  The  railway  service  of  Egypt  is  fairly  comfortable. 
The  cars  are  small  and  patterned  after  the  English  railway  car- 
riage. The  dust  is  almost  unbearable,  and  the  windows,  as  well 
as  the  heavy  wooden  shutters  which  are  necessary  to  exclude  the 
sun,  usually  have  to  be  closed.  In  leaving  the  compartment  to 
go  to  the  dining  car  be  sure  to  have  the  guard  lock  the  door  upon 
your  hand  baggage,  and  securely  fasten  the  windows,  to  prevent 
any  loss  from  theft.  A  small  tip  to  the  guard  will  insure  atten- 
tion. At  various  stations  fruits  of  different  kinds  will  be  offered 
to  the  traveler.  It  is  safe  to  buy  any  fruit  the  outer  covering  of 
which  can  be  removed,  thus  assuring  absolute  cleanliness  within. 
It  is  not  advisable  to  buy  the  beverages  offered  for  sale  unless  in 
sealed  bottles  with  an  European  label  intact.  A  fly  brush  is 
usually  the  first  purchase  made  by  the  tourist,  as  flies  are  still  one 
of  the  plagues  of  Egypt. 


20  TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS 

Cairo.  This  city  with  its  oriental  environment,  mosques, 
bazaars,  shops,  and  luxurious  hotels  is  undoubtedly  fascinating. 
Commanding  a  superb  view,  and  situated  about  250  feet  above 
the  town's  level,  stands  the  Citadel.  Directly  below  the  over- 
hanging cliff  the  city  itself  spreads  out.  The  Museum  of  Egyptian 
Antiquities  houses  a  wonderful  collection  of  mummies,  statues 
and  other  specimens  of  the  arts  of  the  ancient  Egyptians.  The 
bazaars,  the  best  of  which  are  located  on  the  Mouski,  in  old  Cairo, 
are  of  great  interest  to  the  tourist.  Here  are  found  Egyptian 
and  Turkish  work  in  gold  and  silver,  sweetmeats,  embroideries, 
rugs  and  other  wares. 

Language.  Arabic  is  the  language  of  the  people,  but  so  cos- 
mopolitan is  the  tide  of  travel  through  Egypt  that  all  languages 
are  heard  and  interpreters  are  always  available. 

Dragomen.  A  list  of  guides  licensed  by  the  government  can 
be  found  at  the  offices  of  the  hotels.  It  is  well  to  make  use  of  the 
services  of  a  dragoman  for  sightseeing  or  shopping  as  he  can 
save  the  tourist's  time  and  avert  many  unpleasant  experiences. 

Up  the  Nile.  The  traveler  who  wishes  to  go  up  the  Xile  will 
find  a  sufficient  variety  of  transportation  to  gratify  almost  any 
demand.  The  quickest  way  is  by  rail,  but  to  go  by  rail  is  to  miss 
the  whole  charm  of  the  trip.  The  slowest  way  is  to  sail  up,  in  a 
Xile  boat  called  a  "dahabiych,"  but  this  way  is  very  costly,  both 
in  time  and  money.  The  simplest  and  in  many  ways  the  most 
satisfactory  way  is  to  take  one  of  the  regular  tourist  steamers 
which  make  the  trip  to  the  second  cataract  and  back  to  Cairo  in 
about  three  weeks.  Among  the  many  points  of  interest  are  the 
site  of  ancient  Memphis,  the  tombs  and  grottoes  near  Beni-Has- 
san,  the  ruins  of  Karnak,  the  temple  and  town  of  Luxor,  and  the 
Sphinx  and  the  Pyramids  at  the  edge  of  the  Libyan  Desert. 

Money.  The  money  and  coinage  of  Egypt  will  be  found 
remarkably  simple  and  practical,  the  decimal  system  being  used. 
The  monetary  unit  is  the  piastre  of  to  milliemes,  which,  is  worth 
five  cents  in  United  States  money.  There  are  T4  and  T<  millieme 
pieces  of  copper,  :.  2.  5  milliemes  of  nickel,  1.  2,  5,  10  and  20 
piastres  of  silver,  and  50  and  too  piastres  of  gold.  Notes  of  50 
piastres,  one  pound  Egyptian,  5.  [O,  50  and  too  pounds  Egyptian 
are  issued  by  the  National  Bank.  English  sovereigns  are  current 
at  97' j  piastres;  English  bank  notes  are  subject  10  a  varying 
exchange. 


TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS  21 

To  Southern  Italy,  the  Land  of  Sunshine  and  Song 

Landing.  Passengers  arriving  by  steamer  at  Naples  are 
landed  by  tender.  Baggage  is  cleared  in  the  harbor  buildings  near 
the  landing  stage.  Trouble  and  delay  will  be  avoided  at  the 
customs  house  if  passengers  are  careful  not  to  carry  tobacco  or 
cigars  in  trunks  or  suit  cases. 

Naples.  This  city  is  most  pleasantly  situated  on  the  bay  of 
the  same  name,  whose  charms  have  been  told  in  song  and  story. 
As  a  background  for  this  gorgeous  setting,  there  is  Mount 
Vesuvius  in  its  terrific  and  overpowering  grandeur.  A  visit  to 
the  National  Museum,  where  the  objects  excavated  in  Pompeii 
and  Herculaneum  are  to  be  seen,  will  amply  repay  the  tourist; 
also  to  the  Aquarium,  which  has  been  pronounced  one  of  the 
finest  in  the  world. 

Railway  Time.  The  Italian  clocks  and  timetables  are  ar- 
ranged on  the  twenty-four  hour  system;  the  hours  from  midnight 
to  midnight  being  numbered  consecutively  from  one  to  twenty- 
four.  Thus  in  Italy  24.01  means  1  minute  after  midnight,  12.01 
means  one  minute  after  noon,  17.25  means  5.25  P.  M.  and  24.0 
is  exactly  midnight. 

Italian  Railway  Regulations.  The  traveler  in  Italy  should 
exercise  special  care  in  complying  with  all  printed  regulations  of 
the  railway  tickets.  It  is  advisable  to  write  one's  name  on  a 
gummed  label  and  affix  same  to  the  outside  of  the  ticket  case. 
If  the  railway  ticket  is  demanded  for  inspection  by  an  Italian 
official,  the  tourist  should  be  very  careful  to  see  that  he  is  given 
back  his  own  ticket,  thus  saving  unnecessary  confusion. 

Baggage.  No  baggage  is  transported  free  on  Italian  railroads 
with  the  exception  of  the  small  hand  bags  carried  by  the  passen- 
gers.    Insurance  of  all  baggage  is  advised.     The  rate  is  very  low. 

Letters.  Letters  and  parcels  should  be  clearly  addressed,  and 
"Mr."  instead  of  "Esq."  should  be  used.  Writing  must  be  dis- 
tinct, and  it  is  well  to  underline  the  surname.  Persons  applying 
for  letters  should  present  their  cards  or  passports,  or  a  photo- 
graph with  a  clearly  addressed  envelope,  as  the  postal  authorities 
often  find  great  difficulty  in  reading  English  names. 

Customs.  The  only  dutiable  articles  which  the  traveler  is 
likely  to  carry  into  Italy  are  tobacco  and  spirits,  and  on  these 
the  duty  is  trifling. 


22 


TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS 


Cabs.  Cabs  are  cheaper  in  Italy  than  in  any  other  country 
in  Europe.  The  tariff  will  be  found  posted  inside  the  cab. 
A  small  gratuity,  not  over  five  cents,  should  be  given  to  the 
driver  in  addition  to  the  fare. 

Italian  Money.  The  monetary  unit  is  the  lira  of  IOO  cen- 
tesimi,  the  equivalent  of  $0,193  in  United  States  or  Canadian 
money.  The  following  table  gives  a  complete  summary  of 
Italian  coins  and  notes  and  their  equivalent  values  in  dollars  and 
cents : 


Copper  Coins 

Silver  Coins 

Gold  Coins 

Government  and 
Bank  Notes 

5c            $0.0096 
ioc                .0193 
20c  ( Xickel)x>386 

1  lira       $0,193 

2  lire           .386 
5     "             .90S 

5  lire      $  .965 
10     "          1.93 
20     "         3.8O 

5  lire      $       .965 

10     "              1.93 

50     "             905 

100     "           1930 

500                96.50 

1000     "         193.00 

Hotels.  Hotels  in  Italy  are  numerous  and  it  is  easy  to  find 
accommodations  suitable  to  the  means  of  the  traveler.  Lists  of 
hotels  with  their  location  and  tariffs  are  to  be  found  in  the  guide 
books,  or  secured  at  the  tourist  offices.  Upon  the  departure  of 
the  guest  gratuities  are  expected  by  the  hotel  servants  for 
services  rendered. 

Guides.  The  services  of  a  guide  may  be  secured  in  all  the 
principal  cities  of  Italy.  lie  should  be  recommended  by  the  hotel 
or  tourist  office,  and  the  amount  to  be  paid  for  his  services  should 
be  clearly  understood  by  both  parties. 

Language.  A  "phrase  book"  especially  prepared  for  the  use 
of  travelers  is  of  great  assistance.  Sentences  expressing  the 
needs  of  persons  traveling  are  given  in  English,  French,  Italian, 
German  and  Esperanto.  These  books  may  be  obtained  at  railway 
stations. 

Shops.  The  traveler  will  want  to  buy  corals  in  Naples,  mosaic 
work  in  Florence  and  Rome,  and  lace  and  beads  in  Venice.  There 
are  so  many  beautiful  things  displayed  that  the  difficulty  is  not 
in  the  buying  but  in  the  wise  selection.  A.s  in  every  foreign 
country,  the  traveler  should  be  careful  to  buy  only  articles  which 
he  knows  are  genuine  or  else  buy  from  firms  upon  whose  integ- 
rity he  may  rely. 


TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS  23 

Through  Switzerland,  the  Playground  of  Europe 

Accessibility.  Travel  has  been  made  so  easy  in  Switzerland, 
and  the  points  of  interest  are  so  accessible  by  train  or  boat,  that 
it  has  become  the  most  cosmopolitan  of  the  countries  of  Europe. 

Passports.  Passports  are  necessary  for  purposes  of  identifica- 
tion. 

Hotels.  Comfortable,  commodious  hotels  abound,  and  there 
are  excellent  pensions  for  the  traveler  of  moderate  means.  The 
price  of  rooms  usually  includes  breakfast.  At  resorts  such  as 
Interlaken  and  St.  Moritz,  an  additional  charge  is  customary  if 
neither  of  the  other  two  meals  of  the  day  is  eaten  at  the  hotel. 
In  the  cities,  however,  this  charge  is  less  usual. 

Language.  English  is  now  spoken  in  all  the  first-class  hotels, 
and  interpreters  are  to  be  found  at  all  railway  stations.  The 
numerals  in  French,  German  and  Italian  can  be  easily  learned  and 
a  phrase  book  is  a  convenience. 

Money.  The  coinage  of  Switzerland  is  like  that  of  France. 
The  franc  of  ioo  centimes  ($0,193)  is  the  unit.  French,  Belgian, 
Italian  and  Greek  coins  are  in  circulation  and  the  traveler 
must  exercise  care  lest  he  receive  foreign  coins  which  are  not 
current. 

Customs.  New  wearing  apparel,  hats  and  bonnets,  tea,  coffee, 
provisions,  soap,  salt,  sugar,  confectionery,  wines  and  spirits, 
perfumery,  tobacco,  stationery,  jewelry  and  candles  are  dutiable. 
Examinations  of  luggage  are  made  at  stations  nearest  the  fron- 
tier. Passengers  must  always  be  present  and  deliver  their  keys 
to  the  customs  officer. 

Baggage.  Baggage  is  not  carried  free  of  charge  on  the  rail- 
ways of  Switzerland.  Only  the  handbaggage  of  the  traveler  is 
allowed  in  the  railway  carriage. 

Season  Tickets.  The  Swiss  Federal  Railways  issue  season 
tickets,  called  "Abonnements,"  which  are  a  great  convenience  to 
the  traveler.  Information  concerning  them  may  be  easily  ob- 
tained. They  are  non-transferable,  and  are  good  for  various 
periods  from  two  weeks  to  one  year.  They  are  accepted  on  all 
the  state  railways  and  steamers,  and  also  entitle  the  holder  to  a 
discount  on  most  private  lines.  These  tickets  are  unlimited  as 
to  mileage. 


24  TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS 

Climate  and  Clothing.  The  climate  of  Switzerland  varies 
with  its  altitude,  the  lake  levels  1  icing  much  warmer  than  the 
mountain  tops,  which  are  covered  with  perpetual  snow  and  ice. 
The  discretion  of  the  traveler  must  be  exercised  as  to  the  quan- 
tity and  weight  of  clothing  required  for  the  varying  temperatures 
which  may  be  experienced  in  the  course  of  a  single  day. 

Season  for  Travel.  The  spring  months,  March,  April,  and 
May,  are  the  most  delightful  time  of  the  year  for  a  visit  to  Lugano 
and  the  Italian  Lakes  district,  and  May  and  June  for  the  moun- 
tains. Many  of  the  loveliest  wild  flowers  are  then  in  bloom 
and  all  Switzerland  is  in  the  perfection  of  its  beauty.  The  fash- 
ionable "season"  comes  a  little  later,  in  July  and  August,  and 
at  that  time  the  hotels  are  crowded  and  prices  higher.  Many 
winter  sports  have  been  introduced  and  those  enjoying  the  brac- 
ing atmosphere  of  the  snow-covered  countries  will  find  a  winter 
trip  to  Switzerland  a  delight. 

Points  of  Interest.  There  are  a  great  many  points  of  interest 
to  the  traveler  in  Switzerland,  a  few  of  which  are  Lake  Geneva, 
beloved  by  Byron ;  Lausanne,  with  its  famous  cathedral,  and 
the  house  where  Gibbon  wrote  most  of  his  noted  history;  Rhone 
Valley,  with  Zermatt  and  the  Matterhorn ;  the  Swiss-Italian 
lakes,  Como  and  Maggiore ;  the  Grisons  with  the  Engadine ; 
Lucerne  and  its  lake  of  rare  beauty  ;  and  the  Bernese  Oberland 
with  its  might}-  giants,  the  Eiger,  Monch  and  Jungfrau. 

Mountain  Climbing.  Those  who  wish  to  try  the  arduous 
feat  of  making  the  ascent  of  one  or  more  of  the  mountains 
by  their  own  effort  and  skill,  can  arrange  for  such  excursions 
with  the  regular  guides  who  make  a  business  of  mountain 
climbing.  The  guide  will  assist  in  the  selection  of  the  proper 
outfit,  including  the  Alpine  stick  and  ice-ax.  The  rate  of  pay- 
ment for  these  guides  is  fixed  by  the  Central  Committee  of  the 
Swiss  Alpine  Club.  The  guides  pay  their  own  expenses  when 
stopping  at  hotels,  but  en  route  the  charges  are  borne  by  the 
traveler.  The  ascent  of  Matterhorn  is  begun  at  Zermatt.  Lauter- 
brunnen  is  the  center  from  which  Jungfrau  excursions  may  be 
made.  A  visit  to  the  great  <  Hacier  is  made  from  the  Jungfrau- 
joch  Station  on  the  Jungfrau  Railway.  Travelers  are  warned 
not  to  go  any  distance  from  the  station  without  a  guide.  The 
paths  from  Weggis  and  Goldau  (a  station  on  the  St.  Gothard 
Railway   some   miles    from    Lucerne)    are   the  most    frequented 


TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS 


25 


and  best  kept  in  that  region.  Of  the  two  routes  mentioned  the 
path  from  Goldau  is  perhaps  the  most  impressive  in  its  sudden 
revealment  of  the  entire  vast  panorama  of  the  Alps.  Another 
charming  excursion  from  Lucerne  requiring  about  a  day,  is  that 
of  the  ascent  of  the  Rigi  Ffochfluh.  From  Gersau,  which  is 
reached  by  steamer  from  Lucerne,  the  path  leads  the  traveler 
in  a  walk  of  about  three  hours  to  the  summit. 


Round  About  Paris,  or  a  Trip  to  the  Quaint  Corners 
of  the  French  Capital 

City  of  the  Seine.  Paris  is  naturally  divided  into  three  parts ; 
the  quarters  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Seine,  the  Isle  de  la  Cite  and 
the  Isle  St.  Louis,  and  the  quarters  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Seine. 
The  Seine  with  its  flotilla  of  merchant  ships  and  barges,  the 
many  bridges  spanning  it  from  shore  to  shore,  presents  an  ever- 
changing  picture  of  which  the  observer  never  tires. 

Transportation.  Steamers,  steam  and  electric  railways  and 
automobiles  transport  the  tourist  to  the  beautiful  environs  of 
Paris.  On  ordinary  railroads  in  France  66  lbs.  of  baggage  may 
be  carried  free. 

Customs.  In  France  the  importation  of  matches  and  playing 
cards  is  strictly  prohibited,  and  if  found  in  baggage  they  are 
liable  to  be  confiscated.  Tobacco,  wines,  and  liqueurs  are  sub- 
ject to  a  considerable  duty. 

Money.  The  standard  monetary  unit  of  France  is  the  franc 
of  ioo  centimes,  worth  $0,193  in  the  United  States  or  Canadian 
money.  As  France  belongs  to  the  Latin  Monetary  Lnion  its 
standard  unit  has  the  same  value  as  that  of  Belgium,  Switzer- 
land, Greece,  Spain  and  Italy.  The  table  below  gives  a  summary 
of  French  money,  with  its  approximate  equivalents  in  dollars 
and  cents : 


Copper  and  Nickel  Coin? 

Sou  or  5c.      $0.0096* 
2  sou  or  ioc        .0193 


Silver  Coins 

Gold  Coins 

Bank 

Notes 

50c.      $0 .  0963 

1  f.          .193 

2  f.          .386 
5  f-          -965 

5  f-      $0,965 
10  f.        1.93 
20  f.        3. 86 

50  f. 

IOO  f. 

500  f. 

1000  f. 

$  9.65 
19.30 
96.50 

I93-00 

26  TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS 

Catacombs.  These  former  quarries  furnished  the  stone  to 
build  "old"  Paris.  They  occupy  nearly  a  fourth  of  the  whole 
Paris  area.  In  1786  it  was  decided  to  transform  these  quarries 
into  catacombs  and  bury  there  the  bones  of  persons  interred  in 
the  churches  and  cemeteries  of  Paris.  Permission  to  visit  the 
catacombs  must  be  obtained  from  the  Chief  Engineer  of  the 
Department  of  Public  Works  (Prefecture  of  the  Seine). 

The  Savers.  The  sewers  of  Paris  are  examples  of  wonder- 
ful engineering  and  can  be  easily  explored  even  by  ladies.  Vis- 
itors descend  from  the  Place  du  Chatelet.  A  trip  to  the  sewers 
may  be  made  on  the  second  and  fourth  Wednesdays  of  the 
month.  Permission  must  be  obtained  from  the  Department  of 
Public  Works  (Prefecture  de  la  Seine). 

Montmartre.  The  Butte  Montmartre,  which  is  crowned 
by  the  Sacred  Heart  Cathedral,  is  a  center  for  Bohemian  life  in 
Paris.  Here  are  located  the  eccentric  and  curious  cafes  and 
cabarets,  such  as  the  ''Le  Moulin  Rouge''  (The  Red  Mill), 
and  many  others  which  have  taken  their  names  from  "natural 
or  unnatural"  history. 

Sci'rcs.  One  of  the  oldest  towns  in  the  vicinity  of  Paris  is 
Sevres.  It  is  situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Seine  en  route  to 
Versailles.  Here  is  the  old  palace  of  the  dukes  of  Brancas  and 
the  celebrated  porcelain  factory,  which  is  open  to  visitors  on 
certain  days.  Permission  to  visit  these  workshops  must  be 
obtained  at  the  office  of  the  factory. 

Versailles.  A  ride  of  forty  or  fifty  minutes  by  tram  brings 
the  tourist  to  Versailles,  where  are  to  be  found  the  celebrated 
palace  of  Louis  XI V  and  the  two  equally  famous  Trianons.  The 
galleries  of  the  palace  contain  hundreds  of  paintings  and  statues, 
many  of  artistic  excellence  and  all  of  great  historical  interest. 

Fontainebleau.  This  charming  spot,  with  its  many  historical 
associations,  lies  about  thirty-seven  miles  south  of  Paris.  The 
traveler  leaves  Paris  at  the  Gare  de  Lyon,  the  station  for  the 
railway  to  Lyons.  Fontainebleau  has  been  for  centuries  the 
playground  of  the  rulers  of  France.  Napoleon  alone  spent  more 
than  $2,500,000  on  various  improvements  in  the  palaces  and 
grounds.  The  great  forest  of  Fontainebleau,  whose  66  square 
miles  are  noted  as  the  haunt  of  French  landscape  painters,  will 
well  re] iay  an  afternoon's  drive  through  its  shade. 


TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS  27 

A  Pilgrimage  to  Oberammergau,  the  Passion  Play 

Village 

A  Unique  Village.  Oberammergau  is  unique  among  the 
places  of  interest  visited  by  the  stranger  in  Europe,  but  it  is 
only  every  ten  years  that  the  flood  tide  of  travel  flows  in  its 
direction.  The  village  lies  about  forty-three  miles  southwest  of 
Munich,  and  can  be  reached  most  conveniently  from  that  city. 
The  journey  is  made  by  rail,  the  traveler  changing  at  Murnau 
to  the  short  line  of  railroad  which  has  replaced  the  long  carriage 
ride  from  Murnau  to  Oberammergau. 

Munich.  Munich,  the  capital  of  Bavaria,  is  one  of  the  most 
interesting  cities  of  the  German  Empire  and  well  worth  all  the 
time  that  can  be  devoted  to  it.  Its  ancient  gates,  art  galleries, 
and  industries  are  all  objects  of  absorbing  interest.  It  is  called 
Mtinchen,  the  city  of  the  Little  Monk,  and  the  story  accounting 
for  this  name  is  an  ancient  one. 

Baggage.  No  baggage  is  carried  free  on  German  railroads ; 
the  expense  of  transportation  depends  on  weight  and  distance. 
Only  the  hand  baggage  is  permitted  in  the  railway  carriage. 

Customs.  New  wearing  apparel,  toys,  soaps,  cigars  and  cigar- 
ettes, tobacco,  wood  and  bronze  ware  are  dutiable.  Baggage  is 
examined  at  the  frontier,  unless  sent  registered  to  some  special 
point  where  the  examination  is  then  made. 

Hotels.  Rooms  in  the  hotel  at  Oberammergau  must  be  se- 
cured long  in  advance.  It  is  considered  very  desirable,  however, 
to  be  assigned  to  rooms  in  the  homes  of  the  villagers,  and  pref- 
erence is  given  to  those  who  apply  first  for  this  privilege.  The 
tourist  planning  to  visit  Oberammergau  during  the  Passion  Play 
should  make  his  arrangements  far  enough  in  advance  to  secure 
desirable  accommodations. 

The  Play.  The  performance  is  regarded  as  an  act  of  divine 
worship  by  the  villager,  and  is  given  with  the  deepest  reverence. 
General  interest  in  this  remarkable  work  was  first  shown  in 
1850,  and  since  then  many  articles  and  descriptions  have  been 
written  concerning  it.  The  actors  are  selected  from  the  inhabi- 
tants gi  the  village  and  its  environs.  In  many  instances  the 
same  parts  have  been  played  by  successive  generations  of  the 
same  families.  It  is  considered  the  greatest  honor  to  be  permitted 
to  take  part  in  the  play  and  the  deepest  disgrace  to  be  excluded 


28  TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS 

from  it.  This  sentiment  has  had  its  effect  upon  the  moral  char- 
acter of  the  villagers.  To  play  the  part  of  Christus  is  eonsidered 
one  of  the  greatest  earthly  honors  obtainable. 


Cycling  Through  Corsica,  the  Land  of  the  Vendetta 

Corsican  Ports.  The  visitor  to  the  island  of  Corsica  usually 
enters  by  one  of  three  ports:  Ajaccio  on  the  west  roast.  Calvi 
on  the  northwest,  or  Bastia  at  the  extreme  northeastern  part 
of  the  island. 

Steamship  Service.  Weekly  steamship  service  to  Corsica 
from  the  continent  is  given  by  the  Fraissinet  (French  Mail) 
Steamship  Co.,  between  Marseilles,  Leghorn,  Bastia  and  other 
Corsican  ports.  There  is  also  a  weekly  steamship  service  be- 
tween Nice  and  the  Corsican  ports.  The  itineraries  of  the 
steamers  are  subject  to  change,  and  the  passenger  must  inform 
himself  as  to  the  accommodations  available  on  board,  as  some 
ships  do  not  provide  sleeping  quarters.  Passengers  at  Mar- 
seilles may  embark  at  the  Quai  de  la  Joliette  or  Mole  de 
l'Abattoir. 

Railways.  Railways  connect  the  three  principal  coast  towns 
of  Corsica — Ajaccio,  Calvi,  and   Bastia. 

Roads.  The  French  have  constructed  magnificent  roads 
throughout  the  interior  of  the  island.  Arrangements  for  a  trip 
by  carriage  into  the  island  should  be  made  through  the  Ameri- 
can or  British  Consul  at  Ajaccio  or  Bastia. 

Money.  French  money  is  current  in  the  island.  Some 
French  colonial  coins  are  used. 

The  Island.  Approached  as  it  is  from  the  sea,  Corsica  is  a 
frowning  pile  of  rock  giving  little  idea  of  the  great  beauty  of 
its  interior.  The  island  is  of  special  interest  to  admirers  of 
Napoleon,  for  here,  in  1769,  in  the  little  town  of  Ajaccio.  was 
born  the  man  who  was  to  wrest  the  imperial  diadem  from  the 
hands  of  the  Pope  of  Rome. 

Climate.  The  climate  of  Corsica  ranges  from  warmth  in 
the  lowlands  to  extreme  cold  in  the  mountains.  In  the  inter- 
mediate- districts  the  climate  is  temperate  and  healthful 

Inhabitants.  The  Corsican  is  simple  in  his  manners,  digni- 
fied,   proud    and    possessed    of    native    courtesy.       Hospitality    is 


TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS  29 

always  offered  the  stranger.  The  Corsican  is  implacahle  and 
vengeful  toward  his  enemies  and  in  all  questions  sides  with  his 
clan  or  family.  In  business  he  is  unenterprising;  a  political 
career  being  the  ambition  of  almost  every  man,  agriculture  and 
commerce  are  neglected.  In  spite  of  increasing  contact  with  the 
rest  of  the  world,  the  Corsican  remains  much  as  he  always  has 
been. 

Fishing  and  Hunting.  Only  those  holding  a  government 
license  are  permitted  to  fish  or  hunt  on  the  island  of  Corsica. 
Pish  and  game  are  very  plentiful,  and  the  mountainous  interior 
makes  both  sports  attractive. 

A  Trip  to  London,  the  Metropolis  of  the  World 

Arrival.  Visitors  to  the  city  of  London  can  enter  by  rail- 
way, road  or  steamer.  With  the  exception  of  Charing  Cross, 
the  terminals  of  the  great  railway  trunk  lines  entering  London 
are  on  the  outskirts  of  the  central  area  known  as  "the  City." 
The  stations  of  the  four  railway  lines  from  the  north  are  Maryle- 
bone,  Euston,  St.  Pancras,  and  King's  Cross.  Paddington  is  the 
terminus  of  the  western  system,  and  Liverpool  Street  Station  of 
the  eastern  system.  The  southern  lines  of  railways  end  at  Vic- 
toria. Charing  Cross,  Waterloo,  Holborn  Viaduct  and  London 
Bridge. 

Roads.  The  great  roads  into  London,  the  highways  for 
stage  coach  and  motor  cars,  are  the  Uxbridge,  Harrow  and 
Edgeware  roads  from  the  northwest,  which  meet  at  the  Marble 
Arch ;  the  Finchley  and  Edmonton  roads  from  the  north ;  the 
Epping,  Romford  and  Barking  roads  from  the  east;  and  the 
Kingston,  Brighton  and  Dover  roads  from  the  south. 

Docks.  The  docks  all  lie  east  of  London  Bridge  and  extend 
as  far  as  Tilbury,  about  twenty-seven  miles  down  the  river 
Thames. 

Railway  Lines  in  London.  The  chief  railway  lines  used  in 
inner  London  are  the  Metropolitan,  the  Metropolitan  District 
(commonly  known  as  the  District)  and  the  Central  London 
Railway.  The  latter  is  a  tubular  underground  railway  operated 
entirely  by  electricity.  Other  electric  tubular  railways  connect- 
ing en  route  with  the  Central  London,  make  the  underground 
railway  system  of  London  very  complete. 


30  TRAVEL  TIPS   FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS 

Hotels.  The  higher  priced  hotels  of  London  are  in  the  West 
End.  The  more  moderate  priced  hotels  are  in  what  is  known  as 
the  Bloomsbury  district  and  in  "the  City." 

Omnibuses.  The  familiar  'hus  traverses  London  in  all  direc- 
tions from  early  morning  till  past  midnight.  The  names  of 
the  terminal  points  and  the  streets  passed  through  are  generally 
printed  on  the  outside  of  the  vehicle.  A  table  of  the  legal  fares 
is  posted  inside.  For  any  distance  within  "the  City,"  the  fare 
is  one  penny,  or  two  cents,  American  money.  The  principal  'bus 
centers  are  the  Rank,  Charing  Cross,  Hyde  Park  Corner,  Pic- 
cadilly Circus,  King's  Cross,  Islington  and  the  Elephant. 

7  rams  of  London.  As  all  the  tramways  or  street  car  lines 
of  London  are  outside  of  the  West  End  and  "the  City,"  they 
are  of  little  use  to  the  sightseer  unless  he  wishes  to  reach  some 
of  the  suburban  districts.     The  fares  are  moderate. 

Cabs.  There  are  three  classes  of  cabs  in  London  ;  the  "four- 
wheelers,"  "hansoms"  and  "taxi-cabs."  The  fares  vary  with 
the  class  of  vehicle  employed. 

Maps  and  Guide  Books.  It  is  suggested  that  the  traveler 
arriving  in  London  familiarize  himself  with  the  map  of  the  city. 
A  good  guide  book  will  give  him  an  idea  of  the  places  he  will 
wi>h  to  see  and  the  map  will  assist  him  in  locating  them.  With- 
out a  guide  book  the  traveler  will  wa^te  a  great  deal  of  time. 

Sightseeing  in  Paris,  the  City  Magnificent 

The  French  Metropolis.  Paris  is  not  only  the  political  me- 
tropolis of  France,  hut  also  the  center  of  the  artistic,  scientific, 
commercial  and  industrial  life  of  the  nation.  Jt  has  long  en- 
joyed the  reputation  of  being  the  most  cosmopolitan  city  in 
Europe,  for  here  the  artist,  scholar,  merchant  and  votary  ol 
pleasure  alike  find  their  special  interest-. 

Seasons.  Paris  is  interesting  at  all  times,  although  the  spring 
and  autumn  are  generally  conceded  to  be  the  best  seasons,  with 
perhaps  a  preference  for  the  former.  During  mid-summer  many 
of  the  Parisians  leave  the  city,  and  some  of  the  larger  place's  ol 
amusement  are  closed. 

Guide  Book.  A  guide  book  containing  a  good  sectional  map 
of  the  city  of  Paris  is  a  necessity  to  the  tourist.      It  will  enable 


TRAVEL  TirS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS  31 

him  to  save  much  time  and  be  invaluable  in  giving  the  location 
and  description  of  the  many  points  of  interest. 

Hotels.  The  most  fashionable  hotels  are  located  in  the  imme- 
diate neighborhood  of  the  Place  de  l'Opera,  although  there  are 
many  excellent  quarters  elsewhere.  All  the  large  hotels  are 
provided  with  modern  luxuries,  and  the  charges  correspond  to 
the  accommodations.  "Pensions,"  where  board  and  rooms  may 
be  secured  for  a  reasonable  sum,  are  recommended  if  a  long  stay 
is  possible. 

Conveyances.  Motor  omnibuses  and  tramways  cross  the  city 
in  every  direction.  There  are  also  tramway  lines  to  Versailles 
and  other  suburban  points.  The  fares  on  all  the  lines  within 
Paris  are  the  same.  Cabs,  flies  and  automobiles  are  available, 
each  class  with  its  own  tariff.  Compared  with  the  charges  in 
the  United  States,  the  fares  are  very  low. 

Shops.  The  most  attractive  shops  are  those  in  the  Grands 
Boulevards,  the  Rue  de  la  Paix,  Avenue  de  l'Opera,  Rue  Royale, 
Rue  du  Quatre  Septembre,  and  Rue  de  Rivoli,  but  there  are  large 
and  much  frequented  emporiums  in  other  parts  of  the  city. 

See,  also,  "Round  About  Paris,"  page  25. 

Berlin,  the  City  of  the  Kaiser 

A  Clean  City.  The  absolute  cleanliness  of  the  streets,  the 
orderliness  of  every  municipal  arrangement  and  the  strict  en- 
forcement of  the  laws  maintaining  this  ideal  condition  fill  the 
visitor  with  admiration.  There  are  no  "back  yards"  in  Berlin ; 
balconies  filled  with  flowers  ornament  the  buildings,  out-door 
cafes  give  glimpses  of  cheerful  sociability,  and  the  traveler  is 
confirmed  in  his  impression  that  Berlin  is  a  "city  beautiful."  Much 
of  this  appearance  of  cleanliness  and  orderliness  is  undoubtedly 
due  to  the  fact  that  Berlin  is  essentially  a  modern  city.  Most 
of  Berlin  dates  from  the  end  of  the  Franco-Prussian  War,  and 
the  traveler  must  not  expect  to  find  relics  of  mediaeval  Germany 
except  in  the  museums. 

Famous  Streets.  I  nter-den-Linden  is  the  famous  street  of 
Berlin  on  which  are  the  palaces,  the  large  hotels,  the  best  shops 
and  the  parade  of  social  life.  L  nter-den-Linden  runs  from  the 
palace  of  the  emperor  to  the  Brandenburger  Thor.  Vest  of  the 
Brandenburger  Thor  is  the  famous  Sieges  Allee,  or  Avenue  of 


32  TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS 

Victory,  with  its  thirty-two  monuments  to  the  predecessors  of 
Emperor  William  11.  Other  famous  avenues  are  the  Behren 
Strasse,  the  counterpart  of  Wall  Street,  and  the  Wilhelm  Strasse. 
the  Downing  Street  of  Berlin. 

Shops.  Besides  the  high-priced  shops  on  Unter-den-Linden, 
excellent  shops  are  located  on  Leipziger  Strasse  and  Friedrich 
Strasse  in  the  central  part  of  the  city.  The  crossing  of  these  two 
streets  is  the  heart  of  Berlin's  retail  shopping  section. 

Trains.  The  street-car  system  of  Berlin  is  wonderfully  com- 
plete and  covers  all  portions  of  the  city.  The  fare  is  ten  pfennigs, 
or  two  cents.  A  tip  of  five  pfennigs  is  generally  given  to  the 
conductor,  who  will  then  pay  some  attention  to  the  passenger 
and  notify  him  of  his  arrival  at  the  street  where  he  wishes  to 
leave  the  car. 

Places  to  Visit.  Some  of  the  palaces  are  open  to  visitors  at 
stated  tunes  during  the  week.  A  small  admittance  fee  is  asked 
and  a  tip  or  "trinkgelt"  should  he  given  to  the  guide  who  takes 
the  tourist  through  the  rooms.  The  Kaiser  Friedrich  Museum 
contains  many  famous  paintings.  The  so-called  "old"  and  "new" 
museums,  including  among  their  treasures  many  <  Ireek  and 
Roman  antiquities,  are  noteworthy.  The  Tiergarten,  originally  a 
deer  preserve,  is  now  a  great  park,  and  the  collection  of  ani- 
mals in  the  Zoological  Garden  is  one  of  the  finest  in  the  world. 
Many  hue  statues  have  keen  placed  in  various  parts  of  the  city; 
indeed,  as  has  been  aptly  said,  "the  woods  are  full  of  them." 

Charlottenburg.  This  suburb,  only  three  miles  west  of  k.erlin, 
is  easily  reached  by  Irani.  It  is  the  center  of  the  American  col- 
ony, and  is  also  noted  for  the  magnificent  mausoleum  of  the 
Emperor  William  1  and  his  parents. 

Potsdam.  This  suburb  contains  the  present  summer  home 
of  the  Emperor,  and  also  Sans  Souci,  the  favorite  residence  of 
Frederick  the  Great.  The  body  of  this  great  soldier  lies  in  a 
simple  coffin  in  the  Potsdam  I  iarrison  Church.  Napoleon,  at  the 
height  of  his  power,  visited  this  church  in  company  with  some 
of  his  officers.  It  is  said  that  when  he  noticed  thai  their  hats 
remained  untouched  he  commanded  abruptly:  "Mats  oil,  gentle- 
men.    If  he  were  alive,  you  would  not  be  here." 

Passports.  It  is  advisable  to  carry  a  passport  should  the 
tourist  intend  to  spend  a  considerable  time  in  Berlin.  The  pos- 
session of  a  passport  is  not  obligatory,  hut  as  evidence  of  identity 


TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS  33 

may  be  required  at  any  time,  it  is  well  to  be  provided  with  this 
means  of  identification. 

Norway,  the  Land  of  the  Midnight  Sun 

Steamers.  The  most  comfortable  way  to  visit  Norway  is  to 
travel  by  one  of  the  magnificent  steamers  in  and  out  of  the  fjords 
or  bays  of  the  coast  to  the  North  Cape.  Stops  are  made  at  various 
ports  long  enough  to  give  the  tourist  short  shore  excursions. 
There  are  special  ocean  yachts  for  cruising  in  Norwegian 
waters.  The  advantage  of  travel  upon  a  ship  of  this  kind  is 
the  greater  space  given  for  cabin  and  deck  room.  The  ships 
generally  carry  their  own  launches,  which  simplifies  the  matter 
of  embarking  and  disembarking  in  the  shore  excursions. 

Clothing.  As  the  temperature  of  Norway  is  variable  and  the 
traveler  may  go  far  into  the  Arctic  circle,  both  heavy  and  light 
clothing  should  be  taken.  A  raincoat  and  a  pair  of  stout  walk- 
ing boots  or  shoes  are  recommended  for  use  on  shore  excursions, 
as  rain  and  rocks  are  sure  to  be  encountered  occasionally. 

Tourist  Bureaus.  Steamers  carrying  excursionists  to  the 
North  Cape  usually  have  on  board  a  Tourist  Bureau  for  the  in- 
formation and  convenience  of  travelers.  For  the  payment  of 
a  very  small  fee,  the  representative  of  the  Bureau  will  make  all 
arrangements  for  the  shore  trips,  and  thus  relieve  the  tourist  of 
every  care. 

Ship  Time.  The  nautical  day  begins  at  noon  and  is  divided 
into  "watches''  of  four  hours  each,  except  from  4  to  8  p.  m.,  which 
time  is  divided  into  two  watches  of  two  hours  each.  Each  hour 
and  half  hour  of  the  day  is  announced  by  the  ship's  bell.  When 
going  eastward  the  time  on  board  ship  is  changed  daily,  being 
put  forward  four  minutes  for  each  degree  of  longitude,  and  in 
going  westward  it  is  set  back  four  minutes  for  each  degree.  On 
shore  excursions  the  traveler  should  be  careful  to  have  his  watch 
set  to  ship's  time  as  posted  daily  on  the  bulletin  board  in  the 
purser's  office.     Steamers  do  not  wait  for  belated  passengers. 

Hotels.  There  are  good  hotels  for  tourists  in  Norway,  open 
during  the  summer,  at  all  places  usually  visited  by  strangers. 
The  charges  are  moderate  and  the  service  excellent.  Some  of 
the  native  dishes  served  are  delicious,  and  the  water  is  good  in 
all  parts  of  the  country. 


34 


TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS 


Railways.  The  railway  trains  of  Norway  arc  composed  of 
second-  and  third-class  carriages,  except  during  the  tourist  sea- 
son, when  first-class  carriages  are  added  to  the  service.  The 
country  has  a  comparatively  small  mileage  of  railroad-,  prac- 
tically all  owned  by  the  government. 

Roads.     The  government  has  supervised  the  building  of  high- 
ways  through  the  interior,  and  hundreds  of  miles  of  good  roads 
make  every  part  easily  accessible.    The  "cariole,"  a  single  passer] 
ger  vehicle,  and  the  "stolkjaerre,"  made  to  hold  two  passengers, 
are  the  native  carts  that  can  be  hired  for  inland  drives. 

Money.  The  monetary  unit  in  Norway,  as  also  in  Sweden 
and  Denmark,  is  the  krone  of  ioo  ore.  One  krone  is  worth  about 
$0,268  in  United  States  or  Canadian  money  and  is.  id.  in  British 
money.  The  following  table  summarizes  the  coinage  of  the  three 
Scandinavian  countries  and  the  approximate  value  of  coins  and 
notes  in  dollars  and  cents. 


Bronze  Coins 

Silver  Coins 

Gold  Coins 

Bank  Notes 

1  ore        $0.0026 

2  ore            .005 
5  ore            .013 

10  ore      $0,026 
25  ore          .065 
50  ore          . T2 

1  kr.           .268 

2  kr.           .536 

5  kr.      $1.34 
io  kr.         2.68 
20  kr.         5.36 
Ducat        2.24 

1  kr.        $    0.268 
5  kr.              1.34 
10  kr.              2.68 
20  kr.            13.40 

100  kr.            Jb.^o 

500  kr.           134.00 

1000  kr.          268.OO 

These  coins  are  all  current  in  Norway,  Sweden  and  Denmark, 
and  the  bank  notes  are  accepted  in  the  large  cities  of  those  conn 
tries.     In  making  trips  into  the  interior,  the  traveler  should  carry 
the  notes  of  the  country  which  he  is  visiting. 


Touring  Sweden,  Where  the  Boats  "Go  Up  Hill" 

Gdteborg.  The  tourist  from  the  south  or  west  enters  Sweden 
at  the  seaport  of  Goteborg  on  the  Skagerrack.  This  city  of 
1/5,000  people  is  situated  on  the  southwest  coasl  of  Sweden,  and 
is  one  of  its  principal  ports.  In  itself  it  presents  few  attractions 
for  the  tourist,  but  it  makes  a  good  center  from  which  to  visit 
the  popular  summer  resorts  of  Sweden  at  Marstrand,  Saro  or 
Lysekil.  It  is  a1  '  loteborg  the  trawler  begins  his  journey  through 
the  Gota  Canal. 


TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS  35 

The  Gota  Canal.  This  remarkable  overland  waterway  extends 
from  Goteborg  a  distance  of  230  miles  to  Stockholm,  on  the 
southeastern  coast  of  Sweden.  The  passenger  embarks  on  a  com- 
fortable little  boat,  which  will  be  his  home  for  fifty-six  hours,  at 
the  pier  Lilla  Brommen.  The  progress  is  naturally  slow,  but  not 
slow  enough  to  tire  the  traveler,  as  there  is  no  monotony  in  the 
scenery.  While  the  boat  is  passing  through  the  numerous  locks 
the  traveler  may  walk  along  the  country  roads  so  charmingly 
described  by  Air.  Holmes  in  the  Travelogues. 

At  Askersvass,  while  the  steamboat  is  ascending  through 
eleven  locks,  there  is  time  to  visit  the  Falls  of  Trollhattan.  These 
falls,  while  not  equaled  in  Europe,  seem  small  when  compared 
with  Niagara.  They  are  six  in  number,  the  highest  being  forty- 
two  feet.  They  develop  225,000  horse-power,  most  of  which  is 
used  for  industrial  purposes. 

Motala.  This  little  town  on  Lake  Yettern  is  a  good  point  to 
stop  over  for  an  excursion  around  the  lake.  An  express  steamer 
from  Jonkoping  lands  here  and  will  carry  passengers  for  a  very 
moderate  fare  to  the  interesting  points  nearby.  The  hill  of  Om- 
berg  south  of  Motala  is  an  objective  point  for  an  interesting  drive. 
It  is  871  feet  high  and  covered  with  beautiful  forests. 

Taxi  cabs.  Fares  are  moderate.  The  tariff  is  invariably  posted 
in  the  cab  and  a  small  gratuity  is  usually  added  to  this  fare. 

Hotels.  Hotels  in  Sweden  are  excellent,  and  every  comfort 
known  to  the  traveler  in  his  own  country  is  given  him  in  this. 
Rates  are  moderate  and  the  tourist  can  easily  find  the  hotel  to  suit 
his  purse. 

Stockholm.  The  capital  and  principal  city  of  Sweden  is 
called  by  tourists  ''Little  Paris"  or  the  "Venice  of  the  North." 
By  its  inhabitants,  the  city  is  sometimes  called  "The  Queen  of 
the  Malar,"  in  reference  to  the  beautiful  lake  on  the  shores  of 
which  it  is  built.  The  best  views  of  the  picturesque  site  of  Stock- 
holm are  obtained  from  the  Xorrbro,  a  bridge  of  seven  granite 
arches,  spanning  the  small  river  which  is  the  outlet  of  the  lake, 
and  from  the  terrace  of  the  Opera  House.  The  "King's  Garden" 
is  the  chief  winter  promenade.  Other  points  of  interest  are: 
the  National  Museum,  the  National  Library,  the  New  Riksdag 
or  Parliament  Building,  the  Palace,  and  the  various  old  churches 
of  Stockholm. 


36  TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS 

Skansen.  A  visit  to  Skansen  will  prove  of  the  greatest  inter- 
est, illustrating  as  it  does  the  national  life  of  the  people.  Skan- 
sen is  located  in  the  Royal  Deer  Park,  where  seventy  acres  have 
keen  set  apart  for  the  express  purpose  of  reproducing,  to  the 
most  minute  detail,  the  architecture  and  costumes  of  the  Swedish, 
provinces. 

A  Journey  to  Denmark,  the  Island  Kingdom 

First  Glimpses.  The  visitor  to  this  quaint  country  will  note 
with  pleased  surprise  the  absence  of  beggars,  for  there  are  none 
in  Denmark.  Prosperity  is  so  evenly  distributed  that  absolute 
want  is  unknown.  The  interior  towns  are  the  places  where  the 
ancient  customs  and  dress  of  the  people  are  to  be  found,  as 
the  larger  cities  are  conforming  to  the  fashions  and  manners  of 
other  countries. 

Copenhagen.  This  city  is  the  center  of  trade  of  Denmark, 
and  its  commerce  is  greater  than  that  of  the  rest  of  the  kingdom 
together.  Porcelain,  among  the  many  other  industries  of  Den- 
mark, is  making  rapid  advancement  under  this  wise  government, 
and  the  tourist  will  wish  to  visit  the  Royal  Porcelain  Factory 
which  was  founded  in  \~~2.  The  independent  attitude  in  de- 
velopment of  form  and  color  adopted  by  the  Royal  Porcelain 
Factory  has  afforded  a  model  in  porcelain  making  for  the  rest  of 
Europe. 

Hotels.  The  largest  and  most  modern  hotels  have  electric 
light  and  bath-.  Restaurants  are  numerous  throughout  the  city 
of  Copenhagen.  A  cup  of  tea  or  coffee  costs  ten  ore,  about  two 
cents.  P>eer,  milk,  eggs  and  "smorrebrod"  or  sandwiches  tempt 
the  appetite  of  the  tourist  at  the  little  cafes. 

Tromzcays.  The  street  car  system  of  Copenhagen  is  very 
complete  and  gives  the  tourist  ready  access  to  every  part  of  the 
city.     The  fare  is  ten  ore,  including  transfer. 

Cobs.  The  cabs  hold  from  one  to  four  people  and  cost  about 
1^2  kroner  (about  37'.:  cents)  an  hour  in  the  city;  two  kroner 
an  hour  if  used  beyond  the  city  limit-.  Half  fare  is  charged  for 
the  return,  if  the  cab  is  discharged  at  some  distance  from  the 
(-enter  of  the  city.  Small  piece-  of  baggage  are  carried  free. 
Trunk-  are  charged    for  at   the   rate  d   fifteen   '"ire. 


TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS  37 

Places  to  J  isit.  The  Tivoli,  near  the  main  railway  station,  is 
a  large  and  popular  amusement  park  much  patronized  in  summer. 
The  Old  Glyptothek  houses  the  most  celehrated  collection  of 
Roman  portrait  statues  and  busts  in  the  world.  The  Xew  Glyp- 
tothek contains  a  fine  exhibit  of  Danish  and  French  works.  The 
King's  Market  is  near  the  center  of  the  old  or  inner  city  and  is 
a  "large  irregular  space  surrounded  by  handsome  buildings.  On 
the  east  side  is  the  Palace  of  Charlottenborg,  which  was  built  in 
1672  and  since  1754  has  been  occupied  by  the  Royal  Academy  of 
Art.  Near-by  is  the  Royal  Theater.  A  visit  to  tbe  Round 
Tower  will  give  the  tourist  an  excellent  view  of  the  city.  An 
excursion  should  also  be  made  to  Helsingor,  the  scene  of  Shakes- 
peare's "Hamlet ;"  and  to  Frederiksborg,  where  the  traveler  finds 
the  historical  museum  of  Denmark. 

Rural  Denmark.  Denmark  has  no  great  scenic  wonders.  It 
has,  however,  an  industrious  people  who  have  made  their  land 
one  of  the  most  productive  on  the  earth.  Over  eighty  per  cent 
of  the  total  area  is  used  for  agricultural  purposes.  Danish  eggs 
are  served  fresh  every  day  in  London  hotels ;  Danish  butter  is 
famous  all  over  the  world. 

To  St.  Petersburg,  the  Imperial  City  of  Russia 

Passports.  Visitors  to  Russia  must  be  provided  with  pass- 
ports bearing  the  vise  of  the  Russian  consul,  made  within  six 
months  of  the  date  of  entering  Russia.  If  the  traveler  takes  a 
steamer  to  Russia,  his  passport  is  placed  in  the  hands  of  the  pur- 
ser. After  his  baggage  has  been  examined  by  the  custom's  officials 
at  the  entry  port,  the  document  will  be  returned  to  him.  If 
entering  Russia  by  train,  a  gendarme  will  take  up  the  passport 
at  the  frontier  station,  returning  it  after  the  baggage  has  been 
opened  and  passed  by  the  customs  inspectors. 

At  the  hotel  the  traveler  must  hand  his  passport  to  the  man- 
ager, who  will  take  it  to  police  headquarters  to  have  it  registered. 
A  small  fee  for  registration  and  a  gratuity  to  the  hotel  for 
attending  to  the  matter  need  not  exceed  one  rouble.  Twenty- 
four  hours  notice  must  be  given  before  leaving  Russia,  and  the 
passport  must  be  so  countersigned  as  to  constitute  permission  to 
cross  the  frontier.  A  small  fee  of  one  and  a  half  roubles  is  paid 
for  this  service. 


38  TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS 

t  abs.  The  cahs  of  St.  Petershurg  are  the  "droskis"  so 
cleverly  described  in  the  Travelogues. 

Hotels.  The  hest  hotels  are  roomy,  well  furnished  and  inex- 
pensive. Electric  light,  baths,  good  beds  and  an  excellent  cuisine 
make  the  visit  to  St.  Petersburg  a  very  comfortable  one. 

Climate  and  Clothes.  Warm  clothing  should  be  carried,  and 
in  winter  furs  are  an  absolute  necessity.  The  greatest  precau- 
tions must  be  taken  in  winter  against  the  freezing  of  the  face  or 
hands.     The  summers  are  warm  and  come  very  suddenly. 

Shops.  The  "( ireat  Bazaar"  is  the  Mecca  of  the  shopper,  but 
the  articles  displayed  are  too  often  of  foreign  manufacture,  and 
unless  the  tourist  wishes  something  "made  in  Germany"  it  may 
be  advisable  to  visit  the  shops  of  Moscow  before  buying  Russian 
souvenirs.  Shops  on  the  Nevsky  Prospect  and  the  Bolchaya  Mors- 
kaya,  in  St.  Petersburg,  show  exquisite  furs  and  porcelains. 

Places  of  Interest.  The  Kasan  Cathedral  houses  the  famous 
icon  called  "The  Lady  of  Kasan."  The  Memorial  Church  of 
Alexander  II.  the  Fortress,  the  Alexander  I  Monument,  and 
the  Hermitage,  which  ranks  with  the  first  galleries  of  Europe, 
should  be  visited. 

Places  of  Amusement.  The  Islands  (  numbering  about  forty) 
in  the  Neva  delta  are  reached  by  little  steamers  leaving  the  Sum- 
mer Gardens  every  twenty  minutes.  The  fare  is  five  to  ten  ko- 
peks.  The  Summer  Gardens  and  the  Zoological  Gardens  are  two 
very  popular  places  of  amusement. 

The  Nevsky  Prospect.  Alexander  ( iardens  are  the  center 
from  which  radiate  the  three  principal  streets  of  St.  Petersburg. 
The  one  which  is  world-famous  is  the  Nevsky  Prospect,  the  one 
crowded  street  of  the  city,  where  throng  all  sorts  and  conditions 
of  men.  The  irregular  division  of  daylight  and  darkness  which 
prevails  in  this  northern  latitude  have  practically  made  the  "day" 
of  St.  Petersburg  endless.  The  revelers  going  home  meet  the 
workmen  coming  to  work.     The  street   is  three  miles  long. 

Churches.  These  are  second  only  to  the  churches  of  Moscow, 
and  of  them  all,  St.  [saac's  is  the  one  which  most  impresses  the 
traveler  with  its  magnificent  severity.  The  cupula,  lantern,  and 
cross  are  overlaid  by  hundreds  of  pounds  of  jur< >1  <  1  leaf.  The 
pillars  are  shafts  of  granite  sixty  feet  high  and  the  bronze  doors 
should  be  carefully  examined.     Attention  is  called  to  the  pillars 


TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS  39 

of  malachite  and  lapis  lazuli,  and  the  jeweled  "icons/'  in  the  in- 
terior. 

Palaces.  The  imperial  palaces  of  Russia  number  one  hundred 
and  thirty-eight,  and  a  lifetime  could  be  spent  in  visiting  them. 
The  Winter  Palace  and  the  Tsarskoye  Selo  are  the  ones  in 
which  the  tourist  will  be  most  interested.  The  Winter  Palace 
fronts  the  Neva  in  St.  Petersburg  and  at  the  oack  is  the  square 
where  stands  the  monument  to  Alexander  I.  Permission  to 
visit  this  palace  must  be  obtained  through  the  Ambassador  to 
Russia.  Trains  for  "the  Tsar's  village"  leave  the  Tsarskoye 
Selo  Station,  St.  Petersburg,  nearly  every  hour.  The  fare  is 
50  cents,  and  the  trip  takes  about  half  an  hour.  This  palace 
of  Tsarskoye  Selo  has  most  beautiful  grounds  lavishly  orna- 
mented with  graceful  fountains  and  artistic  bridges.  The 
Vauxhall  restaurant  at  Pavlovsk,  three  miles  farther  on,  has 
delightful  concerts,  and  is  an  excellent  place  to  dine.  The  restau- 
rant is  at  the  station. 

To  Moscow,  the  Magnificent  City  of  the  Muscovites 

Heart  of  Russia.  This  city,  which  contains  the  "Iieart  of 
Russia,"  the  Kremlin,  holds  also  many  other  objects  of  interest 
to  the  traveler.  Moscow  is  four  hundred  miles  from  St.  Peters- 
burg and  but  eleven  hours  by  fast  express,  yet  it  is  wholly  dif- 
ferent and  by  far  one  of  the  most  fascinating  places  in  Europe. 
St.  Petersburg  is  European;  Moscow  is  Muscovite. 

The  Red  Square.  About  this  square  are  buildings  of  special 
interest.  On  one  side  stands  the  Church  of  St.  Pasil.  This  is 
so  remarkable  that  once  seen  it  cannot  be  forgotten  and  serves 
as  a  guide  to  the  tourist  in  locating  the  direction  of  his  sight- 
seeing. 

On  this  square  is  also  the  enormous  Riady  or  Gallery  of 
Commerce.  It  is  built  in  a  series  of  arcades  which  cover  the  end- 
less number  of  shops  where  the  traveler  can  indulge  in  purchases 
of  shawls  from  Orenburg,  laces  from  Kaluga,  pottery  from  Pol- 
tave,  toys  from  Sergievsky  Possad,  and  wooden  spoons  from 
the  Balukua  District.  The  distinctly  characteristic  articles  to  be 
looked  for  here  are  the  wonderful  enamels  made  in  the  cellars 
of  Moscow,  and  the  samovars  and  Circassian  jewelry.  The  lac- 
quer work  of  Moscow  is  also  world-famous. 


40 


TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS 


The  "Thieves'  Market"  held  on  Sunday  should  not  he  missed 
by  the  tourist.  It  is  held  in  the  Red  Square.  Old  prints,  bronzes 
and  icons  can  sometimes  be  found  and  purchased  for  a  few 
kopeks. 

Russian  Money.  The  monetary  unit  is  the  ruble  of  ioc 
kopeks,  worth  $0,515.  The  list  of  Russian  coins  and  paper  notes, 
with  their  approximate  value  in  dollars  and  cents,  is  given  in 
the  following  table : 


c 

1   "ins 

Silver 

Coins 

Gold  0  iins 

Hank  Notes 

Ik 

$0.005 '  5 

5  k. 

$0.0257 

5  "•          $2,575 

1  r.     $    0.515 

2  k 

.01 

10  k. 

.051 

7'   K.  or 

3  r.           1.545 

5  k 

.0257 

I5k. 

.077 

I   [mperial  3.86 

5  r.            2.575 

20  k. 

.103 

[oR.           5.15 

10  r.            5.15 

25  k. 

.128 

15  R.  or 

25  r.           12.875 

50  k. 

•257 

1  imperial         7.72 

50  r.          25.75 

100  k. 

•515 

100  r.          5140 

h  ruble 

•257 

500  r.        257.50 

1  ruble 

•515 

Tips.  A  gratuity  in  Russia  is  called  "tea-money."'  Small  tips 
are  customary,  a  few  kopeks  being  enough  for  most  services. 

Cabs.  Cabs  are  numerous  and  cheap  in  Russia.  The  retention 
of  the  services  of  the  same  cabman  throughout  a  short  stay  in 
■any  city  will  prove  a  great  convenience  for  shopping  or  sight- 
seeing. 

Cameras.  Used  cameras  are  admitted  duty  free,  but  per- 
mission to  photograph  must  be  had  from  police  headquarters 
wherever  the  traveler  happens  to  be.  The  best  method  of  avoid 
ing  difficulty  with  the  police  is  to  become  a  member  of  the  Rus- 
sian Photographic  Society  on  payment  of  five  rubles.  The  mem- 
bership card  entitles  the  holder  to  photograph  freely  in  Russia, 
except  in  the  vicinity  of  fortifications,  navy  yards,  railway  bridges, 
and  imperial  domains. 


Trans-Siberian  Railway,  Through  a  Land  of  Promise 

The  journey  by  the  Trans  Siberian  Railway  is  most  interest- 
ing. Tlure  are  many  important  towns  and  cities  along  the  line, 
and  the  traveler  may  now  cross  the  vastness  of  northern  Asia 
with  every  comfort.    The  tickets  are  issued  in  the  form  of  coupon 


TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS  41 

books  and  are  good  for  three  months.  Passengers  from  western 
Europe  with  a  through  ticket  for  the  Far  East,  or  vice  versa, 
are  not  required  to  procure  special  passes  for  the  right  to  cross 
the  frontier. 

Advance  Reservations.  On  account  of  the  great  demand  for 
accommodations  on  the  Trans-Siberian  trains  and  the  limited 
number  of  berths,  passengers  will  do  well  to  secure  reservations 
called  "place  cards,"  and  purchase  all  tickets  in  advance.  From 
March  i  until  July  15  accommodations  on  the  trains  west-bound 
from  Vladivostok  and  Chang  Chun,  are  reserved,  as  a  rule,  and 
tickets  and  reservations  are  sold  two  or  three  months  before  date 
of  departure.  The  same  condition  prevails  regarding  east-bound 
trains  from  Moscow  and  St.  Petersburg  from  August  1  until 
December  15.  Space  may  sometimes  be  secured  when  other 
reservations  have  been  cancelled. 

Train  Equipment.  The  Siberian  Express  is  the  train  de-luxe 
of  the  Trans-Siberian  railway.  On  it  passengers  from  St.  Peters- 
burg and  Moscow  travel  without  changing  cars  as  far  as  Irkutsk. 
At  Irkutsk,  the  passenger  continuing  his  journey  takes  the  train 
of  the  International  Sleeping  Car  Company.  Each  train  is  pro- 
vided with  a  restaurant  car  and  first-class  cuisine.  The  cost 
of  a  sleeping-car  berth  between  St.  Petersburg  or  Moscow  and 
Vladivostok  is  about  $35.00.  The  sleeping-cars  are  usually  di- 
vided into  compartments  containing  two  berths,  a  table,  chair, 
reading  lamp,  and  ample  hook  and  rack  room  for  hand  baggage. 
Toilet  facilities  are  provided  and  on  some  of  the  trains  there  is  a 
shower  bath  with  hot  and  cold  water  in  the  baggage  car.  First- 
class  carriages  are  painted  blue,  second-class  are  tan  color. 

Baggage.  Thirty-six  pounds  of  baggage  are  carried  free  in  the 
baggage  car :  any  excess  weight  must  be  paid  for.  All  pieces 
should  be  registered  at  least  fifteen  minutes  before  train  time.  A 
small  fee  is  charged  for  registration. 

Porters.  If,  when  stopping  at  stations,  the  tourist  wishes  to 
stroll  up  and  down  the  platform  or  visit  the  excellent  buffets 
which  can  be  found  at  almost  every  stopping  place,  he  is  advised 
to  hire  a  porter  to  watch  his  hand  baggage  in  the  compartment. 
A  few  kopeks  will  more  than  suffice  for  this  service,  and  the 
traveler  will  be  rewarded  for  his  generosity  with  smiling  thanks. 

Beverages.  Water  should  not  be  drunk  unless  boiled.  Good 
milk  may  be  secured  at  all  railway  stations  in  Russia.     Almost 


42  TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS 

every  traveler  carries  his  own  tea-making  equipment,  and  makes 
tea  with  hot  water  procured  at  the  station.  Vodka  is  the  whisky 
of  Russia.  Kvass,  a  fermented,  nun-alcoholic  drink,  made  from 
black  bread,  honey  or  berries,  is  a  delicious  novelty  to  the  trav- 
eler. 

Places  of  Interest  en  Route.  The  chief  points  of  interest  after 
leaving  St.  Petersburg  or  Moscow  are  the  Ural  mountains,  Che- 
liabinsk  (the  junction  of  the  St.  Petersburg  and  Moscow  divi- 
sions), Omsk,  with  its  old  Cathedral,  and  the  Taiga  Forest, 
through  which  the  train  runs  for  two  days.  Irkutsk  is  a  large 
and  important  city  which  astonishes  the  tourist  because  of  its 
extent  and  the  business  activity  in  such  an  out-of-the-way  corner 
of  the  earth.  Lake  Baikal  can  be  seen  in  magnificent  panorama 
from  the  train.  Harbin  is  the  important  market  center  of  the 
East,  and  is  also  the  junction  of  the  Vladivostok  and  Darien 
lines  of  railway.  Vladivostok  is  a  city  with  strong  fortifications, 
fine  harbor  and  large  trade.  At  this  point  connections  by  steamer 
are  made  with  Tsnrnga,  Nagasaki  and  Shanghai.  At  Darien 
connections  are  made  with  steamers  to  and  from  Mogi  and  Shim- 
onoseki,  and  the  Japanese  trains  also  connect  with  these  lines. 

Russian  Customs.  In  traveling  eastward  the  hand  baggage 
is  examined  at  Pogranitchnaia,  and  the  registered  baggage  at 
Vladivostok.  When  traveling  in  the  opposite  direction  both  hand 
baggage  and  trunks  are  examined  at  a  station  called  Manchuria, 
a  short  distance  from  the  boundary. 

Chinese  Customs.  Both  hand  baggage  and  trunks  are  exam- 
ined at  the  stations  Manchuria  and  Pogranitchnaia  on  entering 
and  on  leaving  Manchuria. 

A  Trip  Down  the  Amur,  the  Great  Gateway  to  the 

Pacific 

Character  of  the  Land.  Since  Russia  lias  established  her  pro- 
tectorate over  the  territory  known  as  Mongolia,  the  character  of 
the  country  is  rapidly  changing.  As  the  Siberian  trader  pene- 
trates southward,  the  Mongol  Tatars  arc  subtly  becoming  Rus 
sianized.  Settlers  from  Russia  are  here  making  homes  for  them- 
selves, and  the  Russian  peasant  is  even  intermarrying  with  the 
Chinese.  So  immense  is  the  region  and  so  diversified  are  its 
interests  and  possibilities  that  the  section  seen  on  a  voyage  down 


TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRITS      4.3 

one  of  its  rivers  is  only  a  beginning  of  a  discovery  of  the  inter- 
esting. 

Krasnoyarsk  is  a  city  of  19,000  inhabitants.  It  is  the  seat  of 
the  Government  of  the  Province  of  Venisseck,  and  is  destined  to 
be  an  important  place. 

Supplies.  In  Siberia,  the  traveler  using  the  river  boats  for 
transportation,  in  addition  to  the  ordinary  luggage  needed  for 
personal  use,  has  to  carry  his  bedding,  towels,  soap,  tea,  canned 
goods  and  crackers,  with  the  necessary  utensils  for  preparing 
food  and  heating  water.  It  is  not  safe  to  depend  entirely  on  the 
towns  at  which  the  boat  may  stop,  for  the  stores  may  not  be 
sufficiently  stocked  to  supply  the  demand  for  food.  Raincoats 
and  umbrellas  will  enable  the  passenger  to  remain  on  deck  even 
through  inclement  weather. 

Photography.  Now  that  the  country  is  being  garrisoned  so 
strongly  by  the  Russians  the  traveler  must  use  the  greatest  dis- 
cretion in  photographing,  as  it  is  forbidden  in  the  vicinity  of 
fortifications.  At  Vladivostok  the  tourist  can  only  obtain  pic- 
tures from  the  windows  of  his  hotel,  and  then  only  at  the  risks 
of  the  confiscation  of  his  camera  and  of  a  heavy  fine. 

Jladizvstok.  This  is  an  interesting  town  begun  in  i860,  and 
built  on  the  sloping  shores  of  the  pretty  bay  which  forms  a  part 
of  the  Japanese  Sea.  It  has  a  cosmopolitan  population  of  about 
50,000  inhabitants.  The  harbor  is  particularly  fine  and  the  port 
is  accessible  at  all  seasons  of  the  year.  Vladivostok  is  supplied 
with  good  hotel  accommodations.  The  cuisine  is  excellent  and 
electric  lights  and  baths  are  to  be  found  here,  as  well  as  every 
other  equipment  of  a  modern  hotel. 

A  Sojourn  in  Peking,  the  Capital  of  China 

Its  Attractions.  The  vast  country  of  China  and  its  almost 
numberless  population  offer  endless  attractions  to  the  tourist. 
The  strange  customs  of  the  people,  their  homes  and  temples,  the 
beautiful  objects  of  art  in  the  quaint  stores,  the  people  them- 
selves— all  are  supremely  fascinating  to  the  Occidental,  even 
though  he  understands  them  but  little. 

Peking.  This  city  is  not  only  the  capital  of  China,  but  it 
is  one  of  the  great  capitals  of  the  world,  and  so  absolutely  unique 
that  the  traveler  will  consider  it  also  one  of  the  world's  great 


44  TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS 

spectacles.  It  is  a  city  of  three  parts,  the  Imperial  Palace  lying 
within  the  confines  of  the  Forbidden  City,  which  in  itself  is  sur- 
rounded by  the  Tatar  City,  and,  outside  of  all,  the  Chinese  City. 
The  Temple  of  J  leaven,  the  Confucian  Temple,  the  Yellow  Tem- 
ple, Lama  Temple,  Observatory,  Examination  Hall  and  many 
palaces  offer  much  to  see  that  is  worthy.  The  Great  Wall  of 
China  will  be  seen  in  the  best  state  of  preservation  at  Nankow 
Pass,  about  two  days  journey  from  Peking. 

Hotels.     The  hotels  of  the  Orient  under  European  manage 
ment  excel  the  hotels  of  Europe.     The  Chinese  service  is  ideal 
and  the  slightest  want  of  the  traveler  is  anticipated.     A  servant 
is  always  in  attendance. 

Guides.  It  is  best  to  secure  from  the  hotel  or  a  reliable  agency 
the  services  of  a  licensed  guide.  This  man  will  not  only  know 
where  to  take  the  tourist  sightseeing,  but  will  know  the  best  shops 
and  act  as  interpreter  and  protector.  These  men  are  so  faithful, 
so  untiring,  so  eager  to  please,  that  the  traveler  adds  with  pleasure 
the  "cumsha"  or  tip,  to  the  small  sum  charged  for  all  this  devo- 
tion. About  three  dollars  a  day  Mexican,  or  one  and  a  half  dol- 
lars gold,  is  the  usual  fee. 

Currency.  The  currency  of  the  different  sections  of  China 
is  not  uniform  and  the  coins  of  one  province  are  not  always  ac- 
cepted in  another.  The  coast  cities  and  the  large  cities  of  the 
interior  use  the  Mexican  dollar  as  the  monetary  standard  and 
an  article  is  priced  at  so  much  "Mex"  (Mexican)  or  so  much 
"gold."  Mexican  and  British  colonial  silver  dollars  are  imported 
in  large  numbers.  At  the  hotels  and  the  large  shops  in  China, 
American  and  English  gold  and  travelers'  checks  are  accepted. 
The  gold  is  always  at  a  premium,  which  fluctuates  daily.  The 
traveler  is  advised  to  have  always  with  him  a  quantity  of  small 
Chinese  coins  to  use  for  inevitable  "cum  sha."  "Chin-chin  cum- 
sha" is  the  first  Chinese  the  traveler  hears  and  it  comes  from  the 
lips  of  every  beggar  in  (  hina — "Greeting,  a  gift!" 

Shopping.  It  i>  customary  to  "bargain"  in  China.  When 
the  price  of  an  article  is  named  the  shopper  asks  "Mex?"  1  he 
merchant  answers  "Mex"  or  "gold"  as  it  happens  to  he.  and  the 
price  asked  is  generally  two  or  three  times  the  sum  he  will  finally 
accept.  A  great  deal  of  dramatic  ability  is  often  exhibited  in 
the  "bargaining."  The  traveler  shows  indifference  for  the  object 
he  longs  to  possess;  the  merchant  scorns  the  price  offered;  the 


TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS  45 

traveler  is  obdurate  and  perhaps  leaves  the  shop,  taking  care  to 
linger  outside ;  the  merchant  relents  and  names  a  lower  price ; 
the  traveler  re-enters  to  say  he  will  not  pay  so  much  ;  and  after 
a  while  the  agreement  is  made,  the  traveler  leaves  with  the  coveted 
object,  triumphant  over  securing  at  so  small  a  cost  such  a  beauti- 
ful treasure.  The  merchant  rejoices  at  having  made  perhaps  two 
hundred  per  cent  on  the  sale. 

The  Forbidden  City,  or  a  Visit  to  the  Home  of  "The 
Son  of  Heaven" 

A  Sacred  Place.  Now  that  the  mysterious  enclosure  which 
was  the  heart  of  Peking  has  been  laid  open  to  the  gaze  of  the 
world,  it  is  with  something  of  awe  and  involuntary  reverence 
that  the  traveler  enters  the  once  sacred  and  forbidden  place. 
Much  of  the  grandeur  has  passed  with  the  vandalism  of  the  un- 
thinking soldier  and  many  treasures  have  been  lost  to  the  world, 
but  there  still  remains  enough  to  delight  and  amaze  the  traveler 
who  sees  China  for  the  first  time. 

Entrance  Fees.  A  small  fee  should  be  given  the  "gateman" 
who  admits  the  tourist  and  his  guide  into  any  tomb,  temple  or 
house.  In  the  temples  it  is  customary  to  place  a  coin  in  the  "con- 
tribution box"  of  the  priests.    This  is  only  a  matter  of  courtesy. 

J 'chicles.  The  sedan  chair  and  the  jinrikisha  are  the  means 
of  transportation  about  the  city  most  used  by  the  traveler.  The 
jinrikisha  is  a  two-wheeled  cart  which  is  drawn  by  a  coolie.  The 
sedan  chair  is  what  its  name  implies,  a  chair  swung  between  two 
poles  which  rest  on  the  shoulders  of  the  two  coolies  who  carry 
it.  There  is  usually  a  little  canopy  over  the  chair.  The  fare  for 
jinrikishas  is  about  forty  cents  (Mexican)  an  hour,  or  twenty 
cents  gold.  The  rate  for  sedan  chairs  is  eighty  cents  Mexican 
or  forty  cents  gold.  When  stopping  at  a  tea  house  or  restaurant 
it  is  customary  to  give  the  coolies  who  carry  the  sedan  chairs  or 
draw  the  jinrikishas  "tea-money"  (the  coolie  term  for  a  gratuity) 
or  buy  them  some  tan-san  or  ginger  ale.  These  little  courtesies, 
though  expected,  always  give  great  pleasure. 

Clothing.  Clothing  such  as  worn  in  the  temperate  zone  in 
a  similar  latitude  is  suitable  in  China.  The  visitor  to  China 
finds  that  it  is  not  a  nation  of  laundrymen ;  yet  clothes  will  be 


46  TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS 

cleansed  and  cared  for  at  very  little  expense.  In  warm  weather 
linen  and  pongee  suits,  which  are  light  and  easily  cleaned,  are 
worn  by  both  sexes. 

Beverages.  It  is  not  safe  to  drink  the  water  of  China.  Drink 
bottled  waters  with  English  or  American  label  or  the  Japanese 
bottled  water  "tan-san."  Ginger  ale  and  lemon-squash  are  also 
popular  in  the  Orient. 

An  Excursion  to  Seoul,  the  Metropolis  of  the  "Land 
of  the  Morning  Calm" 

The  Approach.  Korea,  or  Cho-sen,  as  it  is  called  by  the 
natives,  was  the  last  of  the  Oriental  nations  to  open  its  doors 
to  the  outside  world.  Since  its  occupation  by  the  Japanese,  rail- 
roads and  steamship  lines  make  Korea  easily  accessible.  The  cli- 
mate is  usually  delightful. 

Seoul.  The  capital  of  Korea  is  the  center  of  a  very  ancient 
culture,  now  rapidly  becoming  Japanese.  It  is  surrounded  by  a 
wall  of  stone,  twenty  feet  high  and  89,610  feet  long.  In  this 
wall  are  eight  large  gates  each  surmounted  by  a  two-story  build- 
ing with  wide  projecting  roofs.  The  Nan-daimon  or  "South 
Gate"  and  the  To-daimon  or  "East  Gate''  are  the  finest. 

Hotels.  The  traveler  can  find  comfortable  accommodations 
and  excellent  service  at  the  European  hotels  and  Japanese  inns 
of  Seoul. 

Water.  As  in  other  Oriental  countries,  the  water  of  Korea 
should  be  boiled  before  drinking.  liottled  waters  which  are 
sealed,  tan-san,  and  ginger  ale  are  the  beverages  mostly  used  by 
the  tourist  in  this  "thirsty  land." 

Money.  The  money  of  Japan  now  current  in  Korea  is  the 
simplest  of  Oriental  currencies  for  the  traveler  to  comprehend. 
The  monetary  unit  is  the  yen.  of  100  sen.  The  yen  equals  fifty 
cents  American;  the  sen  is  equal  to  half  a  cent  American.  Eng- 
lish and  American  gold  is  accepted  and  i<  always  at  a  premium. 
Travelers'  checks  are  now  taken  at  the  hotels  and  large  shops. 

Streets.  Some  of  the  streets  <>f  Seoul  are  broad  and  well 
paved,  others  are  very  narrow  and  (  Oriental  in  their  turnings. 
The  street  leading  up  through  the  city  from  the  South  <  late  is  the 
principal  thor< >ugh tare. 


TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS  47 

Trams.  The  modern  electric  street  car  has  been  accepted  by 
this  conservative  people,  so  that  now  the  traveler  need  not  ride 
in  the  native  vehicles  unless  through  preference. 

Guides.  It  is  best  to  secure  a  licensed  guide  who  will  arrange 
trips  to  the  various  places  of  interest.  The  compensation  asked 
is  very  small,  and  a  trifling  sum  is  usually  added  as  a  gratuity 
by  the  tourist. 

Places  of  Interest.  The  traveler  visiting  Seoul  should  see 
the  Marble  Pagoda,  the  Rock  Image  of  Buddha,  the  Tomb  of 
Queen  Chung,  the  Buddhist  Temple,  the  Temple  of  the  War  God, 
and  the  Keum-Kyu.  or  old  Imperial  Palace.  Independence  Arch 
is  also  noteworthy. 

Hunting.  The  hunters  of  big  game  will  find  excellent  sport 
in  the  tiger  hunting  to  be  had  in  the  interior  of  the  country. 
Smaller  game  abounds  in  the  vicinity  of  Seoul. 

A  Jaunt  into  the  Interior  of  Japan,  from  Nikko  to 
the  Rapids  of  the  Tenryugawa 

Yokohama.  Yokohama,  the  great  port  of  Tokyo,  is  located 
on  the  island  of  Nippon  and  is  the  great  eastern  port  of  Japan. 
At  Yokohama  the  tourist  will  wish  to  explore  some  of  the  mar- 
velous shops,  visit  the  "Tea-house  of  a  Hundred  Steps,"  and 
plan  a  day's  excursion  to  Kamakura  and  Enoshima,  to  visit  the 
interesting  temples  and  monasteries.  At  Kamakura  is  the  won- 
derful Dai  Butsu  or  great  bronze  image  of  Buddha. 

Nikko.  From  Yokohama  or  Tokyo  the  traveler  finds  Xikko 
easy  of  access.  There  is  a  common  saying  in  Japan  which  freely 
translated  means  "Do  not  say  "beautiful'  before  you  see  Xikko." 
The  traveler,  after  he  has  seen  this  famous  place,  will  concede 
that  the  word  "beautiful"  is  inadequate.  Here  are  the  burial 
places  of  the  Shoguns  of  the  Tokugawa  line.  In  their  sylvan 
setting,  these  temples  of  exquisite  carvings  and  red  lacquer, 
perfect  in  every  detail  in  spite  of  the  passing  years,  are  the 
loveliest  things  in  Japan.  Here  is  the  red  lacquer  bridge  over 
which  formerly  none  but  the  Shoguns  passed.  The  Sanbutsudo 
is  the  hall  of  the  Three  Buddhas.  Mangwanji  is  the  principal 
temple.  The  most  beautiful  object  is  perhaps  the  Yomeimon, 
the  "gate  passing  a  day."  so  called  by  the  Japanese  because 
visitors  never  tire  of  inspecting  its  marvelous  workmanship  even 


48  TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS 

though  it  detain  them  a  whole  day.  ( )ther  attractions  in  the 
neighborhood  of  Nikko  will  hold  the  traveler  in  the  region  as 
long  as  his  time  in  Japan  will  allow.  He  should  particularly 
notice  the  avenue  of  cryptomeria  trees,  unique  in  Japan. 

Transportation.  The  kuruma  or  jinrikisha  is  the  ideal  vehicle 
for  a  trip  through  Japan.  The  railways,  which  are  excellent, 
can  be  used  for  the  longer  distances,  but  for  the  leisurely  sight- 
seeing from  place  to  place  the  kuruma,  with  the  kurumaya  to 
act  as  devoted  servant,  guide,  and  interpreter,  as  well  as  horse, 
is  absolutely  unrivaled.  The  kago  or  chair  is  used  in  moun- 
tainous districts. 

Money.  The  decimal  system  and  a  gold  standard  has  been 
used  in  Japan  since  1897.  The  monetary  unit  is  the  yen — 100 
sen — worth  about  fifty  cents.  One  sen  equals  ic  rin.  There  are 
three  copper  coins,  the  5  rin,  1  sen  and  2  sen ;  a  5-sen  nickel 
piece,  10,  20,  50  and  10O  sen  or  1  yen,  of  silver,  and  5,  10  and 
20  yen  of  gold.  The  Bank  of  Japan  also  issues  paper  money 
in  denominations  of  1,  5,  10  and  100  yen.  For  long  journeys, 
it  is  best  to  carry  the  paper  money. 

Clothing.  About  the  same  clothing  is  required  for  Japan  as 
is  used  in  the  temperate  zone  of  North  America.  Linen  and 
pongee  arc  worn  by  travelers  in  the  summer  time.  Low  shoes 
are  more  convenient  than  high  ones,  as  in  entering  the  immacu- 
late Japanese  houses  or  inns  it  is  customary  to  slip  off  the  shoes 
at  the  door.  This  is  not  absolutely  required,  but  is  a  courteous 
observance  of  the  customs  of  the  travelers'  hosts,  the  Japanese, 
a  race  whose  courtesy  is  world-famous. 

Visiting   the   Cities   of  Japan,   from  Tokyo  to   the 
Sacred  Islands  of  the  Inland  Sea 

The  Seasons.  The  best  seasons  to  visit  Japan  are  the  spring 
and  autumn.  During  the  months  of  April  and  May  the  spring 
(lowers  are  in  bloom  and  the  cherry  blossoms  cover  the  earth 
with  a  pink  cloud.  In  October  and  November  the  gorgeous 
display  of  chrysanthemums  and  maples  will  delight  the  tourist. 
But  in  Japan  every  season  has  its  flower  festival. 

Passports.  Foreigners  can  now  enter  Japan  without  pass- 
ports. The  traveler  stopping  at  any  of  the  Japanese  inns  is 
required  to  register  his  name,  nationality,  age  and  profession. 


TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS  49 

Hotels.  The  coast  cities  of  Japan  have  hotels  as  beautiful, 
as  elegantly  furnished,  as  convenient,  and  in  many  ways  more 
comfortable  than  the  hotels  of  other  nations.  The  service  is 
Japanese,  but  the  cuisine  is  usually  under  the  direction  of  a 
French  chef.  The  Japanese  inns  of  the  interior  are  charming 
places,  beautifully  clean.  Guests  are  excellently  served  by  smil- 
ing, polite  natives.    The  rates  are  very  moderate. 

Tokyo.  This  city  is  the  capital  of  the  Empire.  Here  is  the 
Imperial  Palace,  which  the  public  may  not  enter.  The  traveler 
should  visit  the  Yushukan  or  Museum  of  Arms,  and  the  Yasu- 
kuni-Jinsha,  a  celebrated  Shinto  Temple.  Shiba  Park,  ten  min- 
utes' ride  by  ricksha  from  the  center  of  the  city,  is  the  site  of 
the  great  Buddhist  Temple,  Zojoji.  Hibiya  Park  is  the  principal 
amusement  park  of  the  city.  The  Koyakan  or  Maple  Club  fur- 
nishes an  excellent  Japanese  dinner  or  afternoon  tea  to  the  weary 
traveler  and  is  one  of  the  sights  of  the  city.  The  Sengaku-ji, 
known  as  the  "tombs  of  the  forty-seven  Ronins,"  is  well  worth 
a  visit.  In  the  Uyeno  Park  are  the  Imperial  Museums,  the 
Zoological  Gardens,  the  Fine  Arts  School,  Academy  of  Music 
and  Public  Library.  In  this  park  is  a  little  lake  noted  for  its 
lotus  flowers,  and  near  by  is  the  Imperial  University.  Here 
also  in  Tokyo  is  the  famous  school  of  Ju-jitsu;  the  Ikebana, 
where  is  taught  "The  Art  of  Arranging  Flowers" ;  and  the 
Chano-yu,  where  instruction  in  the  conducting  of  "The  Cere- 
monial Tea  Service"  is  given. 

Kyoto.  This  is  the  artistic  center  of  Japan.  The  streets 
are  clean  and  the  plan  of  the  city  orderly  and  easily  understood. 
Kyoto  is  noted  for  its  fine  porcelains,  embroideries,  silks  and 
velvets,  bronzes  and  metal  work.  There  are  here  878  Buddhist 
temples  and  eighty- two  Shinto  shrines.  A  number  of  tea  houses 
and  restaurants  will  be  found  in  Maruyania  Park.  This  place 
is  celebrated  for  its  cherry  blossoms.  From  the  Yasaka  no  to, 
the  five- storied  pagoda,  there  is  to  be  had  an  excellent  view  of 
the  city. 

Kobe,  Osaka  and  Nagasaki  are  towns  easily  accessible  by 
train  or  boat  to  the  traveler.  Nagasaki  is  a  fortified  town  and 
has  large  ship-building  yards,  which  the  public  cannot  visit.  The 
little  fishing  village  of  Mogi,  five  miles  from  Nagasaki  across 
the  mountain,  is  a  charming  place  to  visit  and  a  popular  summer 
resort. 


50  TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS 

Shops.  The  tortoise  shell  of  Japan  is  famous  the  world  over 
and  much  desired  by  tourists.  Purchases  should  be  carefully 
made  at  the  shops  known  for  the  quality  and  workmanship  of 
their  wares,  as  inferior  goods  and  clever  imitations  are  widely 
offered  for  sale.  A  beautiful  product,  of  gun  metal,  inlaid  with 
gold  and  silver,  rivals  the  old  Toledo  work  of  Spain  and  is  called 
Damascene  work.  Porcelains,  silks,  lacquer  work,  beads  and 
toys  bewilder  the  traveler  with  their  exquisite  beauty  or  grotesque 
charm. 

Photography.  Cameras  and  sketch  books  are  prohibited  in 
all  parts  of  Japan  within  six  and  a  half  miles  of  any  fortifica- 
tion. The  rules  are  very  strictly  enforced  and  a  smiling  officer 
will  politely  take  the  camera  suspected  of  containing  forbidden 
views  and  expose  the  film  to  the  light,  thus  making  sure  that  no 
photograph  will  result.  Cameras  are  used  in  the  interior  by  spe- 
cial permission  from  the  police. 

Touring  the  Hawaiian  Islands,  the  Paradise  of  the 

Pacific 

Charm.  To  the  traveler  who  has  once  experienced  the  de- 
lights of  a  trip  to  these  "happy  isles"  there  is  ever  the  desire  to 
return.  Those  who  stay  longest  love  them  best.  Hawaii  is  the 
largest  island  of  the  group,  having  nearly  two-thirds  of  the 
total  area.  Upon  its  rugged  breast  stand  the  two  great  volcanic 
mountains,  Manna  Kea  and  Mauna  Loa.  From  the  sides  of  the 
latter  burst  the  fires  of  Kilauea,  the  largest  active  volcano  in 
the  world.  Kilauea  is  a  pit  crater,  not  a  cone,  and  its  rent  is  a 
hole  in  the  ground.  The  Volcano  1  louse  stands  at  the  very 
edge  of  the  outer  pit,  which  is  500  feet  deep  and  eight  or  nine 
miles  in  circumference.  The  native  name  for  the  crater  is 
Hale  maumau     "1  louse  of  Fire." 

Honolulu.  This  city  on  the  island  of  Oahu,  with  a  popula- 
tion of  over  53,000,  is  the  port  through  which  the  traveler  enters 
Hawaiian  territory.  It  is  a  delightful  city  with  environs  of 
singular  charm.  The  lavish  foliage  of  the  tropics  is  here  found, 
for  the  setting  of  Honolulu  is  in  the  semi  tropical  surroundings 
of  a  land  where  "it  is  always  afternoon."  The  people  are  noted 
for  their  courtesies  and  hospitalities,  which  multiply  in  geomet- 
rical   progression   the  longer  one   stays.     The    National    I'alace, 


TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRtPS  51 

Government  Buildings  and  old  mission  landmarks  are  open  to 
visitors.  The  harbor  of  Honolulu,  with  its  many  ships  from 
foreign  lands,  is  a  scene  of  never-ending  interest. 

Hotels.  The  hotel  accommodations  are  excellent.  Small  cot- 
tages throughout  the  city  of  Honolulu  may  be  rented  for  a  very 
moderate  sum  if  the  traveler  intends  to  stay  for  an  extended 
period.  The  "guest  homes"  are  furnished  comfortably  and 
meals  are  taken  at  the  "large  house''  to  which  the  smaller  "guest 
homes"  belong. 

Local  Transportation.  Electric  railways  traverse  Honolulu 
and  extend  to  the  suburbs.  Automobiles  are  available  for  long 
drives,  and  taxi-cabs  and  carriages  meet  all  steamers  and  island 
trains. 

Places  of  Interest.  The  traveler  will  enjoy  an  auto  ride  to 
the  "Punch  Bowl,"  the  crater  of  an  extinct  volcano,  a  few  miles 
northeast  of  Honolulu.  The  Country  Club  lies  north  of  the  city, 
and  is  reached  by  an  excellent  road  passing  the  Royal  Mausoleum. 
Another  excursion  is  to  Pearl  Harbor,  nine  miles  by  rail,  through 
rice  fields,  cane  fields  and  banana  plantations,  to  the  beautiful 
harbor  where  the  traveler  will  find  a  charming  seaside  resort. 

Waikiki.  This  suburb  is  easily  and  quickly  reached  either 
by  electric  train  or  automobile.  Here  the  characteristic  surf- 
bathing  of  the  natives  may  be  seen  at  almost  any  time.  The  way 
to  this  beach  of  Honolulu  fashion  is  lined  with  beautiful  villas, 
each  with  its  boat-  and  bath-house  facing  the  water.  The  return 
journey  may  be  made  via  Beretama  Street  and  the  grounds  of 
Oahu  College.  Here,  if  the  season  be  right,  an  evening  visit 
will  afford  one  of  the  unique  sights  of  the  world,  a  hedge  of 
night-blooming  cereus,  with  thousands  of  fragrant  blossoms, 
extending  for  hundreds  of  yards. 

Railways.  The  railway  lines  of  the  Hawaiian  Islands  are 
necessarily  short  and  do  not  penetrate  far  into  the  interiors.  The 
railways  connect  the  most  important  cities  on  the  coast. 

Inter-island  Steamers.  The  excellent  service  of  these  inter- 
island  steamers  makes  it  possible  for  the  traveler  to  reach  any 
one  of  the  islands  without  difficulty,  and  each  has  its  attraction. 
On  Maui  is  the  crater  of  Haleakala,  the  largest  extinct  volcano 
in  the  world,  a  marvelous  example  of  the  cooled  walls  and  fire- 
boxes  of  nature's   greatest  blast   furnace.     Among  the  islands 


52  TRAVEL  TIPS  FUR  TRAVEL  TRIPS 

one  may  also  visit  the  coffee,  sugar  and  pineapple  plantations  for 
which  these  isles  are  famous. 


A  Trip  to  the  Edge  of  China 

Hongkong.  Arriving  at  Hongkong  the  landing  is  made  by 
tender  from  the  ship  to  Blake's  Pier.  The  hotels  have  private 
launches  for  landing  and  embarking  passengers  and  their  bag- 
gage. As  Hongkong  is  a  free  port,  there  are  no  customs  formali- 
ties, and  the  traveler  can  choose  his  hotel  and  speedily  be  "at 
home."  The  island  of  Hongkong  is  about  ten  miles  long  and 
averages  three  and  a  half  miles  wide,  with  a  deeply  indented 
southern  coast  line.  On  the  north  shore  is  the  city  of  Victoria, 
fronting  one  of  the  finest  harbors  in  the  world.  Back  of  the 
city  rises  the  "Peak,"  a  mountain  about  2,000  feet  in  height, 
upon  which  are  built  the  summer  homes  and  hotels  of  the  island. 
The  city  has  a  population  of  about  350,000  people,  among  whom 
all  races  are  represented.  The  Chinese  predominate — a  courte- 
ous, energetic  people.  Their  quiet,  respectful  demeanor,  their 
courteous  attention  and  civility  are  in  sharp  contrast  to  the  con- 
duct of  some  of  the  representatives  of  the  Western  nations. 

Hotels.  Excellent  hotels  are  found  in  Victoria,  and  the  tourist 
will  find  this  a  most  delightful  place  in  which  to  spend  the  winter 
season. 

Local  Transportation.  In  going  about  the  city  or  in  trips 
to  the  suburbs,  sedan  chairs  and  jinrikishas  are  used.  All  jin- 
rikishas  and  sedan  chairs  are  numbered,  showing  that  they  have 
received  the  official  license.  As  the  government  controls  the 
licensing  and  the  charges,  the  rates  are  very  reasonable.  The 
Kowloon  ferry  makes  frequent  trips  to  the  mainland  of  China, 
and  for  trips  around  the  harbor  the  native  boats  called  sampans 
are  convenient. 

Shops.  On  Queens  Road  one  finds  the  fascinating  shops, 
where  the  finest  silks  and  embroideries  may  be  purchased.  There 
arc  no  workmen  in  all  the  world  to  equal  the  painstaking  Chinese, 
and  the  products  of  their  skill  are  unexcelled.  Here  at  Victoria, 
all  the  wares  of  China,  Japan  and  India  are  displayed  in  the 
arcade  shops,  with  novelties  in  bamboo,  teakwood,  ivory,  porce- 
lain and  lacquer.  Representatives  of  all  races  and  religions  are 
seen  in  the  streets  and  add  to  the  bewildering  scene. 


TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS  53 

Places  of  Interest.  The  Botanical  Gardens,  Bowen  Road, 
the  great  reservoirs  at.  Wong-nei-chong  Gap  and  Tytam,  the 
Happy  Valley,  the  Pavilion  on  the  Peak  and  the  lovely  "Flower 
Market"  are  all  attractive  to  the  traveler.  The  Ko  Shing  The- 
ater is  in  the  Chinese  section  (West  Point).  Some  of  the  finest 
Chinese  actors  are  here  to  be  seen.  Shau-ki-wan  and  Tai  Koo, 
beyond  Causeway  Bay,  can  be  easily  reached  by  tram  ride.  A 
visit  to  the  preserved  ginger-root  factories  at  Yam-a-ti  is  an 
interesting  assurance  of  the  perfect  cleanliness  of  this  famous 
product  of  China. 

Canton.  Canton  is  about  ninety  miles  from  Hongkong,  and 
is  a  night's  ride  by  steamer  or  about  five  hours'  ride  by  rail  from 
that  point.  The  water  life  of  Canton  is  one  of  its  most  peculiar 
features,  as  thousands  of  boats  floating  on  the  rivers  and  creeks 
provide  homes  for  countless  multitudes.  To  see  the  Canton  of 
the  Cantonese,  it  is  necessary  to  have  a  guide,  who  comes  well 
recommended  by  a  hotel  or  reliable  tourist  agency,  and  the  price 
of  his  services  definitely  agreed  upon.  Canton  is  the  metropolis 
of  China,  with  a  population  variously  estimated  from  four  to 
eight  million.  The  streets  are  seldom  more  than  eight  feet  wide 
and  so  constructed  that  they  get  the  breeze  and  at  the  same  time 
shut  out  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun.  The  water  of  Canton  is 
unsafe  for  drinking  purposes.  Tourists  will  find  it  advisable 
to  drink  the  bottled  waters,  tan-san,  or  ginger  ale. 

Places  of  Interest.  The  kingfisher  feather  workshops,  rice- 
paper  picture  painters,  the  Temple  of  Five  Hundred  Genii,  the 
embroidery  shops,  the  Temples,  the  Taoist  Monastery,  the  City 
of  the  Dead,  Flower  Pagoda,  the  Gate  of  Virtue,  and  the  Street 
of  Carved  Ivories  and  Street  of  Jade  Stones  will  prove  of  great 
interest  to  the  tourist.  Also  the  famous  Water-clock,  which  has 
kept  the  time  of  Canton  for  over  a  thousand  years. 

Money.  English  gold  at  a  premium  is  accepted  in  Canton. 
Hongkong  money  is  not  taken.  Canton  money  should  be  ex- 
changed before  returning  to  Hongkong. 

Shanghai.  Three  days  by  steamship  from  Hongkong  is  the 
interesting  city  of  Shanghai.  The  foreign  settlement  is  thor- 
oughly distinct  from  the  native  town,  and  is  practically  European 
in  its  architecture  and  manner  of  life.  Here  are  the  famous 
Mandarin  Gardens  and  the  Tea  House  pictured  on  the  blue  china 
plates    of    our    great-grandmothers.     The    hotels    are    excellent. 


54  TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS 

First-class  river  steamers  ply  between  Shanghai  and  Hankau.  the 
greatest  tea  port,  touching  at  many  cities,  and  traversing  the  tea- 
growing  section.  If  the  traveler  has  the  time,  a  visit  to  the  tea- 
fields  will  amply  repay  him. 

A  Visit  to  Manila,  the  Capital  of  the  Tropical  Far 

East 

Attractiveness,  'Within  the  last  few  years  travelers  have 
begun  lo  appreciate  the  fact  that  the  Philippine  Islands  have 
wonderful  charm  of  scenery,  immense  natural  wealth,  and  are 
not  only  beautiful  to  look  upon  but  offer  a  profitable  field  for 
investment. 

Manila.  The  chief  city  of  the  islands  in  point  of  size  and 
the  port  at  which  the  traveler  will  enter,  is  the  capital,  Manila. 
At  the  entrance  to  the  harbor  stands  one  of  the  strongest  forti- 
fied places  in  the  world,  Corregidor ;  behind  the  breakwater  lies 
the  magnificent  harbor,  where  the  depth  of  water,  over  thirty 
feet,  permits  the  largest  steamers  to  land  directly  at  the  wharves. 
To  the  south  is  the  Old  or  Walled  City,  while  the  new  commercial 
section  is  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Pasig. 

Customs.  Dutiable  articles,  such  as  tobacco,  spirits  and 
curios,  may  be  stored  at  the  wharves  at  slight  cost  until  the 
traveler  is  ready  to  depart ;  firearms  are  prohibited. 

Water.  Since  the  American  occupation,  sanitary  conditions 
are  so  improved  that  the  water  supply  is  adequate  and  perfectly 
safe  for  drinking  purposes. 

Climate.  The  sun  is  warm  in  the  middle  of  the  day,  the 
nights  cool  and  frequently  necessitate  blankets.  This  is  in  the 
lowlands,  but  as  one  attains  greater  elevations  the  nights  grow 
colder,  until  at  the  high  levels  of  the  Benguet  range,  ice  often 
forms  in  the  streams. 

Places  of  Interest.  The  "intra  muros"'  or  old  walled  city  of 
the  Spaniards  has  five  gateways,  and  is  less  than  two  miles  in 
circumference.  The  old  churches  of  Manila  are  of  more  than 
passing  interest.  The  Augustinian  on  Calle  Palacio  is  the  oldest, 
as  it  was  begun  in  1599.  In  Calle  Arzobispo  is  the  Jesuit  church 
of  St.  Ignatius,  noted  for  its  remarkable  wood  carving.  The 
Cathedral  of  the  Immaculate  Conception,  facing  the  Plaza  Mc- 
Kinley,    is    of    Roman    Byzantine    architecture.      Several    other 


TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS  55 

churches  of  interest  are  within  walking  distance  of  the  Plaza 
McKinley. 

Drives.  Manila  should  be  the  Mecca  of  the  motorist  because 
of  its  beautiful  roads.  A  drive  of  especial  delight  and  interest 
is  that  along  the  Luneta  during  the  band  concert  about  five  in  the 
afternoon.  Almost  equally  pleasing  are  the  drives  to  Santa  Ana, 
returning  by  Calle  Nozaleda,  and  to  San  Juan  Bridge,  returning 
by  way  of  San  Miguel. 

Meteorological  Observatory.  One  of  the  most  famous  ob- 
servatories in  the  world,  this  station  is  conducted  by  the  Jesuit 
Fathers,  whose  long  experience  in  tracking  out  the  course  of  a 
typhoon  has  proved  of  untold  service.  Information  as  to  when 
visitors  are  admitted  to  the  observatory  may  be  obtained  at  the 
hotel. 

Bilibid.  The  great  reformatory  prison  in  Manila  is  the 
largest  as  well  as  one  of  the  most  remarkable  prisons  in  the 
world.     It  is  located  just  outside  the  city. 

Shopping.  There  are  hats,  embroideries,  laces,  "pina"  and 
"jusi"  cloth  and  innumerable  curios  to  delight  the  traveler  in 
search  of  souvenirs.  Shopping  is  done  in  the  Escolta.  This 
street  is  reached  by  the  Bridge  of  Spain  or  the  Santa  Cruz 
Bridge.  Shopping  and  sight  seeing  in  Manila  should  be  done  in 
the  early  morning,  certainly  before  eleven  o'clock,  as  business  is 
practically  suspended  during  the  heat  of  the  day.  In  the  last 
few  years  most  of  the  shop-keepers  have  learned  to  speak 
English. 

Motoring.  The  roads  built  by  the  Americans  in  the  Philip- 
pines are  equaled  only  by  the  roads  of  Franc  .  Long  automo- 
bile rides  are  the  delight  of  the  traveler,  and  several  garages 
have  good  machines  for  hire.  A  visit  to  Baguio,  the  summer 
capital  of  the  Philippines,  is  of  the  greatest  interest,  as  it  takes 
the  tourist  into  the  interior  of  the  island  of  Luzon,  some  distance 
above  the  sea  level. 

Touring  the  Yellowstone  National  Park,  the  Won- 
derland of  America 

Entrances.  Modern  transportation  has  made  the  Yellowstone 
and  its  marvels  easily  accessible.  The  railroad  entrances  to  the 
park  are  on  the  north  and  the  west.     Gardiner,  Montana,  is  the 


56  TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS 

northern  gateway  and  Yellowstone,  Montana,  the  western. 
Camping  parties  often  come  into  the  park  through  Cody,  Wyo- 
ming, on  the  east,  and  Jackson,  Wyoming,  on  the  south. 

Superintendent.  The  commanding  officer  at  Fort  Yellow- 
stone is  acting  superintendent  of  the  reservation.  All  rules  and 
regulations  are  made  by  the  Department  of  the  Interior,  and 
printed  copies  of  these  rules  will  be  found  posted  in  all  the  hotels 
and  camps  in  the  Park. 

Government  Supervision.  Two  companies  of  United  States 
cavalry  are  stationed  at  Fort  Yellowstone.  During  the  season 
detachments  of  these  troops  are  placed  in  different  parts  of  the 
reservation.  They  patrol  the  Park,  guard  against  forest  fires 
and  prevent  acts  of  vandalism.  They  have  authority  to  arrest 
anyone  violating  the  Park  regulations. 

Park  Transportation.  The  tour  of  the  Yellowstone  is  made 
in  stage  coaches  or  surreys,  and  the  transportation  facilities 
found  here  are  a  unique  feature  of  the  trip.  The  government 
has  constructed  a  system  of  macadamized  roads  of  easy  grade 
throughout  the  Park,  and  these  are  kept  sprinkled  daily  during 
the  season.  No  railroads,  electric  lines,  or  automobiles  are 
allowed  to  enter  the  reservation  set  apart  by  the  government  for 
the  preservation  of  natural  phenomena. 

Through  the  Park.  Travelers  through  this  Wonderland  have 
the  choice  of  stopping  at  fine  hotels,  or  at  permanent  or  movable 
camps.  On  either  the  hotel  trip  or  camping  trip,  saddle-horses 
are  obtainable  at  established  rates.  The  scheduled  trip  is  five 
and  a  half  days,  but  there  are  numerous  points  of  interest  to 
detain  the  visitor  who  can  spare  the  time,  and  stop-over  arrange- 
ments may  be  made  with  the  transportation  agent  at  the  respect- 
ive stopping  points.  Numerous  tourists  organize  parties  with 
their  own  or  chartered  outfits  and  stop  whenever  and  wherever 
they  desire.  Licenses  are  granted  to  firms  and  individuals  to 
conduct  camping  parties,  and  full  information  about  such  guides 
may  be  obtained  from  the  park  superintendent  at  Mammoth 
Hot  Springs. 

Baggage.  When  the  tour  of  the  Tark  is  made  by  stage- 
coach a  limit  of  twenty-five  pounds  is  put  upon  the  baggage 
carried  for  each  individual.  Trunks  are  not  transported  through 
the  Park,  but  are  stored  free  of  charge  at  either  Gardiner  or 
Yellowstone.     There  are  no  photographic  restrictions. 


TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS  57 

Clothing.  Warm  clothing  should  be  worn,  and  one  should 
be  prepared  for  sudden  changes  of  weather  and  altitude.  Good 
everyday  clothes,  golf  and  bicycle  suits  are  suitable  for  both  men 
and  women  for  park  traveling.  Linen  dusters  and  overcoats 
may  be  hired  at  either  entrance  and  at  reasonable  prices  for  the 
trip  through  the  Park.  Wraps  should  be  kept  at  hand,  and 
easy,  thick-soled  shoes  worn,  as  at  Mammoth  Hot  Springs  and 
among  the  geysers  tiny  streams  of  warm  water  may  be  encoun- 
tered. Tinted  glasses  and  serviceable  gloves  should  certainly 
be  a  part  of  one's  outfit,  and  a  pair  of  field  or  opera  glasses  will 
be  found  useful. 

Hunting.  As  hunting  is  forbidden,  any  firearms  carried  by 
tourists  are  officially  sealed  at  the  Park  entrance.  Severe  penal- 
ties are  imposed  if  the  seal  is  broken  within  the  limits  of  the 
Park.  All  weapons  may  be  left  without  charge  in  the  care  of 
the  officers  at  the  various  entrances  to  the  Park. 

An  Excursion  to  the  Grand  Canon  of  Arizona,  the 
Acme  of  Sublimity 

The  Approach.  The  traveler  usually  enters  the  Grand  Canon 
from  Wrilliams,  Arizona,  the  ride  by  rail  being  of  three  hours' 
duration.  There  is  also  a  first-class  wagon  road  from  Flagstaff 
to  the  Grand  Canon  at  Grand  View,  a  distance  of  seventy-five 
miles.  This  road  is  open  for  travel  in  spring,  summer  and  fall, 
and  the  trip  takes  two  days  each  way  by  wagon.  Supplies,  camp 
outfits  and  teams  are  procurable  in  Flagstaff. 

Hotels.  There  are  now  two  hotels  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
Grand  Canon,  at  the  head  of  two  of  the  principal  trails,  that  offer 
every  comfort  to  the  tourist.  The  water  used  for  all  purposes 
is  hauled  by  rail  from  Del  Rio  Springs,  over  ioo  miles  distant. 
A  cozy  lodging  in  cabin  or  tent  may  be  had  at  camps  adjoining 
these  hotels  by  anyone  who  prefers  the  simpler  accommodations. 

Transportation.  Horses  and  carriages  may  be  hired  at  very 
reasonable  rates  for  drives  along  the  rim  of  the  Canon;  trail 
animals  and  guides  are  furnished  for  trips  down  the  trails. 
Horseback  riding  is  a  favorite  pastime. 

Clothing.  If  the  tourist  intends  to  do  much  tramping,  stout, 
thick  shoes  should  be  provided.  Ladies  will  find  that  divided 
walking  skirts  are  preferable   for  the  horseback   journey   down 


58  TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS 

the  zigzag  trail.  Traveling  caps  and  (in  summer)  broad- 
brimmed  straw  hats  and  linen  dusters  are  useful  adjuncts. 
Otherwise  ordinary  clothing  will  suffice.  A  field  glass  should 
be  brought  along.  Divided  skirts  and  straw  hats  may  be  rented 
at  the  hotel. 

Camping  Trips.  Camping  trips  with  pack  and  saddle  ani- 
mals, or  with  wagon  and  saddle  animals,  are  organized,  com- 
pletely equipped  and  placed  in  charge  of  experienced  guides. 
On  account  of  weather  conditions,  camping  trips  from  October 
to  April  should  be  planned  for  points  in  the  Canon,  and  from 
April  to  October  they  may  be  planned  for  both  in  the  Canon 
and  on  the  rim.  Rates  vary  with  the  different  outings,  and 
arrangements  for  the  trips  are  made  at  the  Canon  hotels, 
Williams  or  Flagstaff. 

Drives.  Regular  trip  drives  may  be  planned,  the  most  inter- 
esting being  to  Mohave  Point,  Hopi  Point,  Hermit  Rim  Road, 
Yavapai  and  Grandeur  Points,  Grand  Mew,  Bright  Angel  Point 
and  Dripping  Springs.     Rates  vary  according  to  the  trip. 

Trails.  The  four  easiest  descents  of  the  south  wall  of  the 
Canon  near  the  granite  gorge  are:  the  Grand  View  Trail,  the 
Bright  Angel  Trail,  the  Hermit  Trail  and  Boucher  Trail,  at 
Hermit  Basin,  and  the  Bass  Trail.  Amongst  other  trails  out- 
side of  the  district  named  are  Lee's  Ferry  Trail.  Hopi  Indian 
Trail  and  Diamond  Creek  Road.  At  each  point  the  Canon  pre- 
sents a  different  outlook,  and  each  scene  vies  with  the  other  in 
indescribable  grandeur.  Horseback  trips  over  any  of  the  trails 
into  the  Canon  are  permitted  only  in  the  company  of  a  guide. 
This  rule  is  merely  a  matter  of  precaution  for  the  safety  of  tourists. 

A  Visit  to  Moki  Land,  the  Home  of  the  Cliff  Dwellers 

of  Arizona 

To  Moki  Land.  An  interesting  trip  to  the  "mesas"  or  table- 
lands upon  which  the  cities  of  the  Hopis  are  built,  can  be  made 
by  leaving  the  railroad  at  Gallup.  New  Mexico,  and  driving  a 
distance  of  one  hundred  miles  across  the  intervening  desert  and 
mountains.  Automobiles  at  a  rate  of  aboul  $10.00  per  day  can 
be  hired  to  take  the  traveler  very  comfortably  on  his  way  to  the 
distant   pueblos.     Stops   may   be   made   at    the    Mission   of   St. 


TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS  59 

Michaels  and  at  Ganado.  Ganado  is  an  interesting  trading  post, 
where  the  traveler  may  stop   for  the  night. 

Winslow,  Arizona,  is  another  gateway  into  this  country. 
From  this  town  it  is  seventy  miles — a  two-days'  trip — across  the 
desert  to  the  first  '"mesa."  A  wagon  or  automobile  can  be  hired 
at  Winslow  from  a  liveryman,  who  will  also  provide  a  camping 
outfit. 

The  Painted  Desert.  The  trip  from  Winslow  to  the  pueblos 
is  made  through  the  famous  Painted  Desert  of  Arizona,  and  will 
long  be  remembered  as  an  event  in  the  life  of  the  traveler.  In 
this  region,  also,  though  at  a  distance  of  some  miles  from  the 
road,  lie  the  Petrified  Forests  of  Arizona,  the  Aztec  Ruins  and 
the  Indian  Hieroglyphics  which  still  puzzle  scientists.  The  vil- 
lages or  pueblos  on  the  mesa  in  this  excursion  are  Oraibi  and 
Walpi.    These  are  the  ones  generally  visited  by  travelers. 

History.  In  1540  Francisco  Vasquez  Coronado,  accompanied 
by  several  hundred  soldiers,  invaded  this  region  in  search  of  the 
mythical  seven  cities  of  Cibola.  Coronado  and  his  men  did  not 
find  the  golden  cities  of  their  quest,  but  they  did  discover  and 
conquer  the  province  of  Tusayan,  now  known  as  Hopi  Land  or 
Moki  Land. 

Hopi  Houses.  The  Hopi  houses  are  made  of  adobe,  with  flat 
roofs,  from  which  entrance  is  made  to  the  rooms  below.  The 
roofs  are  reached  by  means  of  ladders,  which  can  be  drawn  up, 
making  the  house  then  inaccessible  to  anyone  from  the  street. 
The  houses  are  placed  in  clusters  high  up  on  the  plateau 
above  the  surrounding  plain,  thus  giving  the  name  ''cliff-dwellers" 
to  their  inhabitants.  The  rooms  are  little  and  low,  as  the  Hopi 
Indian  is  of  small  stature.  The  floors  and  walls  are  clean  and 
the  rooms  orderly. 

Danecs.  Every  month  has  its  own  particular  festival  at 
which  characteristic  dances  are  given.  They  have  different  sig- 
nificances— some  are  an  invocation  for  rain,  others  for  a  boun- 
tiful harvest,  still  another  for  a  general  thanksgiving,  etc.  All 
are  picturesque  and  interesting. 

Oraibi.  The  largest  and  most  important  of  the  pueblos  is 
Oraibi.  Here,  in  August  of  every  alternate  year,  is  held  the 
great  religious  demonstration  known  as  the  "Snake  Dance." 
Oraibi  is  picturesquely  situated  on  a  high,  rocky  plateau  or  mesa. 
Its  inhabitants  have  managed  to  retain  the  manners  and  customs 


50  TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS 

of  their  ancestors  of  centuries  past,  and  also  much  of  their  inde- 
pendence. A  stay  nf  several  weeks  among  this  interesting  people 
presents  many  fascinating  features.  Artists  and  students  of  the 
tribal  customs  and  ceremonies  of  the  American  Indian  are  often 
in  residence  here.  Indian  houses,  clean  and  comfortable,  may 
always  be  rented  for  any  length  of  time  desired. 


South  America,  the  Land  of  Tomorrow 

The  Voyage.  In  this  most  interesting  lecture  Mr.  Holmes 
suggests  that  the  voyage  to  South  America  should  begin  at  Londi  in. 
By  starting  from  the  English  port  the  monotony  of  a  continuous 
sea  voyage  is  broken,  various  interesting  places  are  visited  on  the 
way,  and  the  southern  crossing  to  Pernambuco  is  usually  smoother 
than  the  trip  down  from  Xew  York. 

Clothing.  Whatever  weather  prevails  in  the  Northern  Hem- 
isphere when  the  trip  is  begun,  remember  that  the  exactly  op- 
posite condition  of  climate  will  be  found  when  one  reaches  his 
destination.  Our  winter  period  in  the  North  is  the  summer  time 
of  the  dweller  on  the  other  side  of  the  Equator,  and  vice 
versa.  Carry  the  same  kind  of  clothing  that  would  be  needed  for 
similar  seasons  in  the  North,  providing  always  for  extremes  of 
heat  or  cold.  Veils  for  protection  from  mosquitos,  and  insect 
powder  for  an  emergency;  face  cream  and  plenty  of  powder, 
add  to  the  comfort  of  the  traveler;  a  Spanish  phrase  book  helps 
him  on  his  way,  and  a  passport  prevents  difficulties  in  the  matter 
i  if  identification. 

Social  Observances.  The  South  American  is  punctilious  in  his 
observance  of  the  graceful  things  of  lift-  as  shown  in  dress  and 
manner,  is  a  severe  critic  of  any  breach  of  etiquette,  and  is 
intolerant  of  a  brusque  manner  or  a  careless  or  untidy  appearance. 
<  >ld  Spanish  ideas  prevail  in  every  country  of  South  America,  and 
any  disposition  on  the  part  of  a  stranger  to  ignore  their  customs 
(even  though  unconsciously,  through  ignorance)  is  regarded  as 
the  gravest  discourtesy  and  may  even  be  serious  in  consequence. 
The  South  American  women  arc  so  carefully  guarded  from 
casual  acquaintances  that  the  friendly  courtesy  of  the  women  from 
the  North  is  often  misunderstood  and  regarded  as  offensively 
familiar. 


TRAVEL  TIPS  FOR  TRAVEL  TRIPS  61 

Introduction.  Letters  of  introduction  are  absolutely  essential 
if  the  traveler  would  see  the  interiors  of  the  beautiful  homes  and 
be  admitted  to  the  social  affairs  of  the  city  or  country. 

Hotels.  Hotels  are  quite  as  usual  as  those  of  France  or  Spain, 
except  that  they  are  apt  to  be  magnificently  bare  and  cold.  There 
is  no  difficulty  in  being  understood,  as  English,  French,  Italian  and 
( ierman  all  seem  to  be  spoken  with  equal  facility.  A  small 
gratuity  is  given  when  leaving  the  hotel  to  those  who  have 
given  personal  service. 

The  ordinary  speech  of  the  people  is  a  Spanish  different  in 
quite  a  degree  from  the  Castilian.  French  is  used  everywhere  as 
the  social  and  diplomatic  language. 

Environment.  Travel  through  South  America  will  be  found 
very  similar  in  every  respect  to  that  in  the  North,  the  only  changes 
those  that  would  naturally  be  found  in  a  country  where  the  lan- 
guage and  coinage  are  different  from  those  of  one's  native  land. 
If  anything,  extremes  of  luxury  and  privation  are  to  be 
found  as  violently  contrasted  as  is  possible  to  be,  and  either 
poverty  or  riches  enjoyed  or  endured  with  philosophical  serenity. 
The  one  and  only  positively  necessary  thing  to  observe  is  a  fine 
and  dignified  courtesy.  This  and  this  only  can  smooth  the  travel- 
er's path  and  admit  him  within  the  circle  of  reserve  which  the 
Latin  of  South  America  draws  about  himself  and  his  affairs. 


WHAT  THE  WORLD  THINKS   OF  THE 
TRAVELOGUES 

I  take  very  great  pleasure  in  recommending  the  Burton  Holmes 
Travelogues  to  all  lovers  of  good  literature. 

Bishop  Samuel  Fallows,  Chicago. 

One  travels  along  most  comfortably  from  page  to  page,  stopping  now 
and  then  to  admire  this  or  that  picture.  The  incidents  present  themselves 
as  they  do  to  the  real  travelers,  and  the  real  illusion  of  travel  is  very 
complete.  F.  W.  True, 

Head  Curator,  National  Museum,  Washington,  D.  C. 

The  Burton  Holmes  Travelogues  give  one  all  the  varied  pleasure  of 
foreign  travel,  minus  the  annoyances.  He  shows  us  in  every  far-away 
country  the  very  things  we  should  want  to  see  if  we  could  pick  up  and 
make  the  journey.  George  Ade. 

The  Travelogues  by  Burton  Holmes  are  without  question  the  greatest 
work  of  travel  in  existence.  They  cover  the  entire  world  both  by  pen  and 
picture.  The  author  possesses  a  power  and  charm  of  description  possessed 
by  no  other  writer  of  modern  times.  F.  M.  Acton, 

Probate  Judge,  Lancaster,  Fairfield  County,  Ohio. 

A  man  who  ranks  today  as  not  only  one  of  the  most  successful  travel- 
ers, but  as  one  who  has  the  ability  to  tell  others  what  he  sees. 

Edward  K.  Bok,  Editor  of  Ladies'  Home  Journal. 

We  all  owe  Mr.  Holmes  a  debt  of  gratitude  for  putting  his  splendid 
pictures  and  lectures  in  permanent  form. 

Richard  Henry  Little, 
Writer  and  Journalist,  Chicago. 

A  casual  glance  is  sufficient  to  show  that  the  Burton  Holmes  Trav- 
elogues are  elegantly  gotten  up  and  represent  the  highest  example  of 
printer's  art.  I  have  heard  many  of  his  lectures  and  shall  take  great 
pleasure   in   refreshing  my  memory   from  the  books. 

F.  H.  Rawson. 
President,  Union  Trust  Company,  Chicago. 

The  mechanical  work  is  beyond  criticism  and  the  illustrations  are 
pointed  and  lifelike  and  give  a  realization  of  the  original  which  cannot 
be  had  except  by  personal  inspection.  These  volumes  in  themselves  con- 
tain a  liberal  education  and  no  one  can  well  afford  to  be  without  them. 

H.   St.   George  Tucker, 
Dean  of  the  School  of  Law,  George  Washington  University. 

The  stay-at-home  feels  that  with  the  Travelogues  always  at  hand  he 
has  the  best  of  the  bargain,  and  so,  in  my  opinion,  will  every  owner  of 
these  beautifully  printed,  illustrated,  and  bound  volumes.  In  them  the 
world  becomes  an  exposition  and  Air.  Holmes'  pen  and  camera  the  keys 
that  unlock  its  wonders  and  spread  them  before  our  delighted  vision. 

Chas.  E.  Pidgin, 
Author  of  Quincy  Adams  Sawyer. 

The  books  are  a  handsome  addition  to  my  library,  but  far  better  than 
their  beauty,  is  their  attractive  and  entertaining  usefulness.  The  illustra- 
tions on  every  page  are  exquisite,  and  emphasize  most  artistically  and  clear, 
terse  and  discriminating  description  of  strange  lands  and  people.  You 
deserve  great  praise  for  placing  in  our  hands  such  an  elegant  encyclopaedia 
of  travel  at  a  price  so  reasonable.  HENRY  C  PATTENGILL, 

Editor   and    Proprietor,   Moderator — Topics. 


For  those  who  are  unable  to  avail  themselves  of  travel  a?  a  source  ot 
first-hand  information.  I  know  of  no  substitute  so  worth-while  as  the 
Burton  Holmes  Travelogues,  where  the  interesting  historic  places  are 
described  so  vividly  that  one  enjoys  the  journey  as  thoroughly  as  if  he  had 
actually  taken  it.  Xo  library  can  afford  to  be  without  a  work  of  this 
character.  Anna   C.  Gilhay. 

Director  of  History  Course.  Manual   Training  High  School, 

Kansas  City,  Mo. 

The  subject-matter  is  so  well  arranged  and  so  superbly  illustrated  that 
it  brings  to  the  reader  an  enjoyment  that  is  closely  akin  to  that  of  real 
trawl,  and  these  books  ought  to  be  in  all  of  the  elementary  schools  of 
our  city.  W.  M.  Gregory. 

Department  of  Geography,  Normal  Training  School,  Cleveland,  Ohio. 

Tf  you  cannot  travel,  let  Burton  Holmes  do  it  for  you.  If  you  are  con- 
templating traveling,  then  acquaint  yourself  with  a  set  of  his  journeys, 
and  if  you  have  traveled,  by  all  means  enjoy  again  yoi.r  trips  in  company 
with  his  incomparable  Travelogues.  O.  W.  Ruggi 

General  Passenger  Agent.   Michigan  Central   Railroad. 

To  fully  appreciate  the  Burton  Holmes  Travelogues,  one  must  possess 
it.  a=;  this  travel  library  is  pre-eminently  in  a  class  by  itself,  simple,  and  of 
intense  interest  to  everybody.  My  wife  and  daughter  are  delighted.  We 
would  not  be  without  Travelogues  for  ten  times  the  price. 

H.   W.   Femmer, 
Attorney  &  Counsellor-at-Law,  St.  Louis,  Mo. 

I  find  in  the  Burton  Holmes  Travelogues  a  reference  library  that 
comprehends   the   world.      I    cannot   imagine   a    work  on   travel   that   will 
touch  as  many  points  as  thoroughly  and  as  simply  as  Mr.  Burton  Holmes 
uched  them  in  his  superb  travel  library. 

Homer  Bassford, 
Associate  General  Manager,  The  St.  Louis  Times,  St.  Louis,  Mo. 

The  increasing  vogue  of  the  Travelogues  from  year  to  year  can  only 
be  accounted  for  on  the  ground  of  genuine  merit.  Mr.  Holmes  has  demon- 
strated his  fitness  for  the  duty  of  delivering  illustrated  lectures.  His  quick 
and  accurate  appreciation  of  art  and  happy  command  of  language,  combine 
in  an  endowment  that  but  few  can  boast.  It  is  not  strange,  therefore, 
that  he  is  succeeding. — Cliieago  Tribune. 

Mr.  Holmes  is  an  experienced  and  enthusiastic  globe-trotter,  a  clevei 
observer,  a  skilled  artist,  and  as  he  has  been  almost  everywhere  his  Trav- 
elogues are  a  vivid  reflection  of  his  personal  experience. — New  \ 'ork Herald. 

Tt  gives  me  much  pleasure  to  say  that  not  only  ha;  the  New  St.  Louis 
Star  in  its  library  the  Burton  Holmes  Travelogues,  but  that  they  are  con- 
sulted frequently  and  are  of  inestimable  value. 

Also  I  have  them  in  my  home  and  enjoy  them  much. 

William  B.  Kexxey, 
Editor,  The  New  St.  Louis  Star,  St.  Louis,  Mo. 

The  Travelogues  are  one  of  the  most  valuable  sets  of  books  in  our 
library.  They  are.  we  believe,  consulted  more  often  than  any  other  work- 
on  travel  here.  We  can  recommend  them  as  reliable  and  interesting  to  a 
high  degree. — Lancaster  (.Ohio)  Public  Library. 

T  recommend  the  Burton  Holme?  Travelogues  to  all  who  have  a  desire 
to  get  a  real  idea  oi  the  world  abroad  as  well  as  th<  f  our  owu 

country.  J.  Sherman  Porti 

Managing  Editor,  The  Lexington  (Ky.)  Herald. 


GETTY  CENTER  LIBRARY 


